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MiCarl

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Everything posted by MiCarl

  1. Bead probably wasn't seated. Mounting the dot to the opposite side won't cause it to loose pressure. That whole dot to the valve thing has to do with tube type tires, with the assumption that the valve and the reinforcement around it make that the heavy part of the wheel. On tubless tires I find the heavy spot on the wheel and align the light mark on the tire to that. More than half the time the heavy spot on the wheel is nowhere near the valve.
  2. The system is pretty smart. Test procedures for the pump are in the service manual. You can find the service manual linked in the tech section.
  3. They sync in pairs. It's not that two isn't synced, it's that 1-2 aren't synced. The way you sync is to get 1-2 matched. Then match 3-4. Finally you match the left (1-2) to the right (3-4). What makes it extra fun is until you get pretty close changing one changes the others. It's quite likely as you sync 1-2 the other pairs will go out, don't worry about it.
  4. Careful. Yamaha used several different blanks on the Ventures.
  5. I bought a set of Kenda Kruz when the rear ME880 that was on it started to come apart. I put the rear on right away but didn't get to the front until the winter. I didn't record the odometer, but I'm sure the rear has at least 5,000 miles on it. Most of those miles are two up (exceeding the weight rating of the motorcycle) and some pulling a trailer with Labrador retriever. They still look brand new.
  6. Your key code is etched onto the aluminum housing of the ignition switch. The housing is attached to the steering head by two cap screws - 10mm head I think. Don't make the mistake of trying to remove the lock cylinder, it's on the housing. If I recall correctly you can get them out (with enough extensions and swivels) though the opening in the fairing the forks pass through. With the key code you can order a replacement from http://www.key-men.com.
  7. I had a Goldwing in my shop where the owner had used a pair of small adjustable (Crescent) wrenches. He'd slide the D ring down the handle then put the lock through the hole in the handle end. Looked pretty slick.
  8. I wonder if that rubbing noise is broken final drive splines. Since the drive shaft is exposed you can have her get on, let the clutch out, and see if the shaft is turning.
  9. Pull the oil fill cap and take a sniff. If the clutch if fried enough to do that it'll stink to high heaven.
  10. I ride with a number of 2nd gens. They keep up just fine under hard straight line acceleration. In tight turns they seem to have trouble keeping up.
  11. I put a 2nd gen final on my 89. It bolts right up BUT shifts the wheel about 1/4" to the left. Doesn't cause me any issues. The 2nd gen final has a hole for the speed sensor. I made a block off plate out of a piece of 1/4" aluminum.
  12. Actually, there is a vacuum pump. It's different than an automobile unit that gets its vacuum from the intake manifold. But, the pump doesn't run continuously. The controller only turns it on when it needs to pull the servo. I've been trying to fix my lazy cruise for some time and have not found my problem. I've tried two different pumps and two different controllers with no effect. I've also verified that the servo doesn't leak. Having said that, the very first thing to do is replace the vacuum hose that runs from the pump to the servo. You can get a piece at the auto parts store. If I recall correctly you can remove the front turn signals and replace the hose without pulling anything else off. The pump is behind the right signal, the servo is behind the left one.
  13. I own a shop, so let me give you some perspective from the other side: Sometimes a job becomes more involved or for some reason takes much longer than originally anticipated. This will push everything back. Sometimes parts arrive for something that was waiting and it jumps back into the queue. I'm a one man operation so I don't have the problems of people getting sick, quitting etc., but I bet larger shops do. As of tonight there is a two week wait to even get in my shop, then as much as a week after it's in. It's the busy season.
  14. This is your (current) problem. The sync screws should be adjusted so all four are the same. You are grossly out of sync. As soon as one closes they all stop and the idle stop screw (the knurled knob pointing down on LH side) has no effect. You've got to get it to where all four butterflies are the same and almost closed. Then you have a chance of getting it to run.
  15. The sensors in the master cylinders can fail. I bypassed the one in my rear years ago. You do know that there are two accessory terminals? One is a ground, you should use the (+).
  16. Says it does 4" - 16.5" diameter. Not for 1st genners.
  17. Seafoam!
  18. I have a friend that just purchased an '06. The antennas were switched and we could hear/be heard (at least at short range), but the modulation seemed poor. We switched the antennas with some improvement, but it's still pretty poor. He is using the same headset and helmet that sound great on his 86. His modulation just seems poor. I'm assuming the output power is there because he does overcome a high squelch setting at that distance. His roger beep also seems pretty muted. Anyone got suggestions where to look? If that transceiver has an adjustable modulation limiter I'd be real interested in the CB service manual.
  19. Tuning the antenna is to improve its efficiency, primarily for transmitting. The noise you are overriding with the squelch isn't because the antenna is inefficient. It could be that something else on the motorcycle (or a bike near you) is throwing off RF noise. I can tell you that it seems that I have to turn my squelch higher than I used to. It just seems there is more noise out there. There also seem to be a lot of people running very high power transmitters (at least on the channels we want to use) - their transmissions can be heard throughout an all day ride.
  20. Very little air moves through the dash vents. Their intake is that small scoop under the headlamp - not a whole lot of air moving through there. A couple weeks ago I blocked the vents at my shins open. A surprising amount of air moves through them.
  21. The model grip I use is Kuryakyn 6180. Package says it fits all 75-up goldwing.
  22. I've got the old ones in the package in the shop. I'll get the model number off. At first they felt big, but I got used to them in a hurry.
  23. They are 7/8". You need the length too, you can measure yours. I put on a set of the Kuryakin Iso grips sized for GoldWing. They fit and I love them.
  24. 1) your low vacuum was probably due to at least one, but probably 2 or even 3 cylinders not firing at idle. 2) "messed with the carbs" doesn't tell us what you did to it, but opens up the possibility of the sync being way off. 3) your condition is probably the result of being WAY out of sync and multiple cylinders not running. I'd suggest you check for spark on all four cylinders. Then check for good compression on all four. If that's all good the carbs need to come off and be properly cleaned and bench set. Then you can fine tune the motorcycle.
  25. Extra fork oil reduces the size of the air pocket and has the effect of making the spring rate higher. Too much and the forks can hydro lock, damaging seals or other stuff. Best not to do it UNLESS the manufacturer specifies an acceptable range (some Harleys and older, small metrics). I just had a late 70s CB550 in the shop that another place had rebuilt the forks. There was 80ml too much oil in each one. One WAY stiff ride!
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