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MiCarl

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Everything posted by MiCarl

  1. MiCarl
    Dessert is probably on the other side.
  2. MiCarl
    I didn't read it that way, but I agree with Brian. If you don't know how to ride this is a poor choice for a learner bike.
  3. MiCarl
    My starter came in. It's just like the photo, I pulled the end off and it is indeed a 4 brush starter. The label on it says: MADE IN TAIWAN A0A0093/09040048 Looking again at the sellers ad: Replaces Part Numbers & Specifications MITSUBA SM-229C, SM13279 YAMAHA 1FK-81800-10-00 I missed before (or the seller updated) that this is also listed as replacing the MITSUBA SM13279 which I think is the MITSUBA 4 brush per Prariehammer's earlier post. Of course 2 brush or 4 won't be the whole story. It's going on the Venture sometime this winter and will post the outcome when I do. It's a V-Max starter so it's black powder coated. If the color is important to you you might want a different starter. Seller eBay listing
  4. MiCarl
    Also, there is stuff that is not in the service manual. If ever everything isn't 100% clear stop and ask a question here. You'll waste way less time waiting for an answer than you will waiting for replacement parts because of an oops. In particular, once you have the carburetors removed you need to stop and ask here about indexing and removing the pilot screws. The manual doesn't touch that and you'll save yourself lots of hours by doing it properly.
  5. MiCarl
    If you haven't cranked the engine yet, remove spark plugs and spray a good dose of penetrating oil into each cylinder. This will help ensure the rings don't stick and break. Let this soak while you do the other maintenance. Nope Almost certainally You really need a service manual and some sort of vacuum/balance gauge. Good news is if you do a thorough and careful job on the carb cleaning the sync will pretty much just a tweak at the end. Oil and filter for sure. Plugs likely ok. Don't know off hand where fuel filter is, again the service manual. You absolutely have to have the service manual. There is an electronic one in the tech section here but IMO it's hard to top having a paper book on your bench that you can just flip through. This is especially true for a novice wrench spinner. You'll have people tell you to rap the float bowls with the handle of a screwdriver to unstick the floats. While that can work it's never going to run properly after an extended sit unless the carburetors are well cleaned. The first time you crank it over you need to leave the plugs out and either ground the wires or disconnect the ignition module. That will clear the penetrating oil without the risk of hydrolocking the engine. You also need to replace the brake fluid and tires. Good idea to lube the cables too. Basically go through the lubrication and maintenance section of the manual and do everything in there.
  6. MiCarl

    Bad boy horn

    MiCarl replied to a topic in Watering Hole

    The wiring diagram that comes with them is for a switched (+), which is typical on cars and light trucks. Motorcycles (Japanese ones anyhow) switch the (-). Here is a diagram for how to easily wire for a motorcycle. It uses both horn leads which are simply slipped onto relay terminals 85 and 86.
  7. MiCarl
    I just got back. I see it as win/win: If my guy wins I'll be happy. If the other guy wins I've earned the right to complain.
  8. MiCarl
    One compulsion I have is counting everything. It's been awhile since I used my HF lift, but I think it's just over 50. Doesn't take a lot of force, but a lot of cycles. I try to use the air lift for most things. The HF gets pressed into service when I need to load a bike backwards that has bags or pipes that interfere with the tall clamp on the air lift. It also gets used for quick jobs when the air lift is tied up.
  9. MiCarl
    I got an ad in my email today from Harbor Freight. They are listing the pedal operated lift at $369. On line ad
  10. MiCarl
    If there is something to grab don't worry about drilling. Just heat and twist. Of course if your easy out broke through the side of the bolt it'll just wedge things tighter unless you turn it clockwise.
  11. MiCarl
    For future reference heat is your friend when removing steel bolts from aluminum. Once you've broken them and got the sensitive parts removed heat with a torch and unscrew with locking pliers.
  12. MiCarl
    - SIGH - I ordered based on the picture and Dingy's description of the 4 brush case not having screws holding the magnets. Looking at their specs and Prariehammer's model info it appears I ordered a 2 brush starter. It'll be here next week. I'll let you know what it ends up being. BTW, their current listings for Venture starters also appear to be 2 brush models.
  13. MiCarl
    Actually, here is a pic I stole from Harmonicashaun. Looking at it I think the level is just a bit below the point I told you. Kind of at the midpoint of the blend. I put a red line marking the level. You could also compare the level for the one that isn't dripping with your other levels. Remember, any air in your gauge set up will mess up the reading.
  14. MiCarl
    My point was that if it isn't a mist the fuel and air aren't mixing in the emulsion tube. Either it's submerged in fuel or the air isn't getting to it. I do not remember the measurement of the fuel level and my book is at the shop. But I do remember roughly where it is on the diaphragm covers. The covers have a slight protrusion the screws go through. That protrusion blends into the circle that is the main body of the cover. Right where the transition starts is where the fuel level ends up.
  15. MiCarl
    Anything coming through there should be a mist. If the fuel level is correct I'd suspect emulsion tubes, air jets or their passages.
  16. MiCarl
    Showing more than 10 in stock. It's the V-max, not a 2nd gen Venture starter. eBay listing
  17. MiCarl
    I just ordered one from them about an hour ago. $90.77 with shipping. UPS already sent me tracking info.
  18. MiCarl
    On the other hand, if you'd been on the bike you might have grabbed onto the venison so the deer didn't run off with it. Just sayin'....
  19. MiCarl
    I was going to offer you mine, on the condition I got it back if the repair was successful. Coupled with the final and ring gear it was originally in it'd be functional unit. Then I remembered I ended up sticking it on the chassis I sold Dingy for his V-max hybrid thing. Perhaps he still has it........
  20. MiCarl
    What I think this is about is the fuel already in the pump and hose before you use it. If the guy before you pumps E15 the plumbing is going to be filled with E15 when you start. If you pump a small amount you're going to have a large portion of E15 mixed in. The idea behind the 4 gallon recommendation is so you get enough of whatever you're buying to make sure and dilute the E15. Be nice if we could just leave the corn in the food and booze chain and run our vehicles on petroleum. Lots of powerful interests behind the ethanol mandate though, going to take lots of loud voices to get us off this path.
  21. MiCarl
    I don't like the idea of hanging it. Have you considered a ramp and a winch?
  22. MiCarl
    Your delay off idle is a symptom of a lean condition. The slow drop from 2500 is also lean - likely a vacuum leak. Check out your vacuum lines, vacuum caps and carb holders for leaks. I spray a bit of starting fluid at suspect areas, some use unlighted propane torch, listen for rpm increase when you hit a potential leak. **Don't use much of your flammable unless you like large fire balls.
  23. MiCarl
    I've got a pair of Wolo Bad Boy air horns on my 89. The left one is newer because it was replaced after a crash. The design of the left is a bit different than the right, it does not have that apparent intake hole like the right one and the Stebel horn has. The left horn started sounding pretty weak. I tore into it expecting to find a nest of some sort in the intake hole, which I never found. In my search I noticed that there are a pair of holes in the bottom which are apparently used to hold the brushes back during installation (at least that's what I used them for on reassembly). Since I had the armature out I lubed the bearings. That solved the problem. My guess is some dirty water got in through the bottom holes which put some drag on the shaft. The last couple rides before it acted up were wet and sloppy. The older horn has the same holes and I suspect is vulnerable to the same problem. **EDIT** Didn't mention: The armature can be removed by removing the brush plate at the bottom. There are a pair of phillips screws near the electrical terminals. Putting screws back is not fun because magnets pull them out of alignment with the holes. I stuck the ends of a paper clip through the holes to hold the brushes back during assembly.
  24. MiCarl
    Because it's not so. There is a rule about mixing in other bike association patches on a STAR vest. I think, but cannot say for sure, that at least part of the reason is to avoid friction with other clubs. Nothing else about clothing, stickers, flags, pins etc. With several thousand chapters you're bound to have some instances of misapplication of the rule. If your local officers are over doing it go up the chain or change chapters. Judging from the vests I see, the rule isn't often enforced.
  25. MiCarl
    The odometer is gear driven. The speedo moves by a magnet spinning inside an aluminum cup. The shaft hangs in tiny bearings, just like the moving parts in a watch. Doesn't take much to gum them up. A bit of cleaning and lubrication may solve your problem. Insect nest or spider web will lock it down tight.
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