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MiCarl

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Everything posted by MiCarl

  1. I didn't remove the exhaust. I unbolted the thermostat housing from the engine, Pulled the elbow out of the water pump, removed the hose from the thermostat to the radiator and the hose from the radiator to the bypass valve. This lets you get the starter bolts out and just enough wiggle room to fish the starter through. Of course I drained the coolant before I started. I used a drift to tap the old starter back out of it's hole behind the side cover. Putting in the new one was equally tough. I don't think it's possible to bind the gear but I put a wrench on the alternator rotor bolt and rocked things back and forth to be sure. I tapped the new starter home holding the head of a hammer and tapping (with a pushing motion, not swinging) the handle against the end of the starter.
  2. The point about data caps got me wondering about mine. ATT caps DSL at 150GB/month. They say they will notify at 65% and I've never received a notice. Their tracking tools seem nonexistent so I can't see what I actually use. I did find something interesting though. HD Netflix streams at 5Mbps, using about 2GB/hour. So 75 hours would max me out at HD. I think I watch about 60 hours/month + our other data usage. Here is the kicker though, I only have a 1.5Mbps connection, so I'm not getting Hi Def. At 1.5Mbps I'd have to watch 500 hours/month to hit the cap. Now, I could send more money to ATT for a faster connection to get better quality but I'd use more data and the cap is still 150GB. As I said before, I'm very satisfied with the quality I get so I don't send extra $$ to ATT. Now I realize that by paying more money I might actually get LESS TV enjoyment. BTW, I found something else. Netflix lists 1.5Mbps as the minimum bandwidth, 3Mbps for DVD quality and 5Mbps for HD.
  3. V-Max starter is in. I ran the bike until the cooling fan kicked on, which is hotter than it normally sees. Starter cranked like mad at 5, 10 and 30 minute "soak" intervals. Quite happy with it.
  4. I do think if you go to the various sites you can see what content they have available. I also think most of them offer a free trial period. Using a Blu-Ray player has its merits. That way the Blu-Ray runs everything and you don't need to switch the TV between the various inputs. Plus you get a new remote. Speaking of remotes, my TV did not come with a remote (display model). I use a Logitech internet programmable remote to run everything. It's pretty slick - hook it to your computer, input the models of your devices and it downloads the programming off the internet.
  5. Computer, Cell Phone, Tablets etc. should all work. Since it's on demand there is no urgency about watching it while away, you can also just watch it when you get home. One deficiency of the devices is you can only watch stuff there is an app for. There is lots of free stuff on the internet I can watch from my computer that are inaccessible to the TV because it does not have a web browser.
  6. There are a number of devices that allow this: Add on boxes like the Roku, Some Gaming systems, Some Blue Ray players and some TVs have it built in. The internet connection can be wired or wi-fi. In my case it's wi-fi and built in to our 55" TV. I watch a lot of Netflix and occasionally something on YouTube. Our internet connection is 1.5mb DSL and is perfectly adequate. Supposedly Netflix adapts to the internet speed and we would get better picture quality with a faster connection. The only time it hasn't been DVD quality to my eyes was with one scene in Hunt for Red October where the hues in the sky showed some minor pixelation. Of course if you watch old TV shows the quality wasn't there in the original recording. I do have some beefs with Netflix. Their streaming movie selection is thin and their selection of TV shows isn't what I'd like. That should improve a lot in 2016 because they've locked up the Disney library starting then. There are many other services available that might have better content selection, or a better match for individual tastes. I know Amazon offers pay per view streaming movies which is a much more complete library. There is nothing to prevent you using multiple services. Personally I think this is the wave of the future. The only thing holding it back is the content providers are comfortable with the cable TV model and are reluctant to undermine it with new technology. Eventually they'll sort out the revenue model just like they had to when DVD technology came along. One thing about this technology is it's done in software, so as new services or technologies come along your device should update itself so it's not obsolete. So here's my summary of the advantages/disadvantages: + Way less $$ than cable. + Watch whenever you want, not at a preset time slot. - The content is thin compared to cable, especially sports.
  7. The firing sequence listed in the 1st gen book is incorrect. 1st gen firing order is also 1-3-2-4. The correct firing order can be seen in the cam degree chart on the same page as the typo. If you think about it, the order listed in the book would require a very funky crankshaft.
  8. Several years ago I was in a class where the Avon rep gave a presentation on tires. He said you should go with the bike manufacturers recommendation unless installing a premium tire. He said premium tires require higher pressure and it's best to go with the tire manufacturer recommendation. He listed Avon, Metzeler and Pirelli as examples of premium tires. The trick is finding the tire manufacturer recommendation. Metzeler used to have some on their web site but I think they are gone now. When I mount a Metzeler or Avon I typically go 5 over OEM front, and 5-10 over rear depending on whether it's a solo rider or a couple with luggage etc.
  9. The mixture screws won't be set the same. This is normal. Your best bet is to reassemble them in the same position they were and start tuning from there. The actual tuning is fairly involved and will require a color tune plug, digital tachometer or gas analyzer to be successful. The method will depend on the tool you use. Gas analyzers are expensive and a color tune is difficult to use on the Venture. I'd go with a digital tachometer. After synchronizing the carburetors set the idle speed to 1000 rpm. Tweak one screw to maximize the RPM. Reset the idle speed to 1000 and repeat for the next mixture screw. etc. etc. If you want to be really anal about it you can then re-synchronize and repeat the process again. I'm not aware of any source for 2nd gen diaphragms other than throwing lots of $$ at Yamaha for a slider assembly.
  10. Yeah, it's easier to just watch TV until the screaming starts.
  11. If all else fails I can get you a new aftermarket one. About $75 + Shipping. Way too much $$, but a lot less than Yamaha charges.
  12. We're so sorry Jay. Our thoughts are with you. Car & Cathy
  13. I guess we were married to the same woman. Hated it when I came home from the grind to her proudly exclaiming "Guess how much money I saved you today!".
  14. There are two (minor) problems with your numbers: 1) They're over two years old (it didn't improve since then) 2) The budget cuts aren't cuts in the sense your family understands cuts. They're reductions in the spending increase. Only in Washington can increasing spending 3% instead of 5% be a cut.
  15. The grips I used are the Kuryakyn ISO GRIP model 6180. Listed as fitting all '75 and up Gold Wing models. The instructions will tell you to orient the grip so the pads face your palm when in riding position. They also say to consider where the throttle position will be for the right grip. On mine the right grip is rotated about 15deg or so toward the closed position which seems to aim it toward my palm at about 1/4 throttle. Worked out quite well.
  16. I have a very good friend that claims he understands why women are the way they are: "They just aint wired right!"
  17. Well crap! I thought sure there would be no Christmas shopping this year. Now I've got to rush.
  18. I've got my old ones in the package at the shop. I'll get the model number when I'm back (probably Monday) and post it here.
  19. Body parts are getting harder to find new, so good used ones are getting expensive. Most other parts are readily available. You'll likely have to do your own work. Not many shops will touch a bike that old, and even fewer will do it right.
  20. Something I just stumbled across. At a quick glance it appears to say using a radiant space heater might not save any $$ if your regular heat is gas. http://www.osceolaelectric.com/Energy_Center/Quartz_Heaters/index.html
  21. Yes, last 90K miles have been pretty good. Definitely less $$ in repairs than the first 90K miles. Really a shame Michigan winter is finally starting to have its way with the sheet metal. I agree with you though. The first 100K should be routine maintenance plus tires, brakes and wiper blades.
  22. Thing is, most companies operate on very thin margins (Apple excluded!). The reduced production costs translate into reduced price at the store. Example: In 2010 I bought a 55" internet enabled HDTV for not much more than my dad paid for his first 27" color TV in 1972. Adjusted for inflation I paid much less. I can remember in the 1980s it seemed like all the manufacturing was going to Japan. Wages there began to rise and today the Japanese manufacturers are moving their manufacturing off shore. There economy has gone nowhere for almost 20 years. Today it's China and India. Already though China is starting to get expensive and some businesses are moving manufacturing to places like Indonesia. Capital seeks its most efficient use. Overall, artificial barriers to its movement lowers our standard of living. Now, North America is awash in energy. Some energy intensive industries are starting to move here to exploit cheap natural gas. If our governments don't place artificial barriers in place that capital will continue to come here to work.
  23. I almost, agree. I swore after my 97 Yukon I'd never buy another GM product. This past spring looking for a smaller pickup truck (going to keep the Yukon for the occasional big pull). I saw my choices as follows: 1) Dakota. Rusts out in a week and uses more fuel than the Yukon. 2) Ranger. Fuel mileage about the same as the Yukon. Have had outstanding satisfaction with every Ford product I've ever owned. At about 6 years many of them are showing significant rust. 3) Colorado. Better fuel mileage than the others, never seen rust on any of them. Dreaded GM product. I keep vehicles a long time (Yukon is 15 years old) and rust is a big deal to me. Pretty much everything else can be repaired but rust will always get you. So I swallowed hard and picked up a very nice '04 Colorado. Starting to realize the reason Colorados aren't rusty is because they spend most of their lives in a nice dry service department. By the time I got past 120K miles on the Yukon I had most of the kinks worked out of it. Hopefully it'll be the same with the Colorado.
  24. Not much help to you. The only one I have is B/W in a Clymer manual and I suspect that is what you have. The good news is Yamaha seldom changes wire colors at a connector. With the possible exception of the turn signals your colors should match up. My best advice is to grab the large, multi-wire, connectors and start matching up. Then go to the bullet connectors. It'll be a time consuming process. Be sure and look at the wires carefully, it's really easy to miss a stripe.
  25. Yamaha made more than one model of 750 in 1981. Help us help you by including the model.....
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