MiCarl

California Department of Toxic Substance Control: LINK

Here is an interesting article about risk I just stumbled across. http://www.jewishworldreview.com/0213/portfolio_threat.php3#.URwk5qw_d8E Volatility is a short term phenomenon. Risk is long term and can easily be overlooked.

The People's Republic of California has banned lead wheel weights. Consequently they're getting hard to find. Next time you're likely to get steel or zinc. Which means instead of a couple you'll probably get a foot of them.

So long as Bernanke keeps printing money it goes up. When he stops I'm out.

Needn't do the full diode check to find a short. The test procedure won' detect a shorted regulator circuit anyhow. Black meter lead to black wire, red meter lead to red wire. Should read open. If not it's shorted. The reds should be connected internally in the Regulator/Rectifier, as should the blacks. Check all combinations just to be sure.

I checked. Mine is not using the brown wire. The service manual shows the brown wire and the parts fiche does not indicate that the regulator/rectifier has been superseded by a new version. I suspect the brown wire (when used) is for the regulator to sense the system voltage. Most regulators sense the voltage at the red and black wires, not using an extra lead. I suspect aftermarket Venture regulator/rectifiers (and perhaps OEM) don't use it. I've never seen a shorted regulator/rectifier, although I suppose it's possible. I think it's much more likely the one you have has the leads assembled wrong or your motorcycle was previously re-wired to work with something else.

I don't think the brown wire is your issue. If I recall correctly, my 89 has 7. 3 white, two red, two black. My connector melted so the wires are soldered, and there is an unused brown wire hanging there. I'll try and remember to double check when I get to the shop. It's more likely that the wires in the R/R are in the wrong place in its connector. The three white wires go to the three wires from the stator, which are black on my bike. Then red-red, black-black for the other four.

I think the carpet will probably keep it from moving. The fill plug on the hydraulic jack points up when the lift is horizontal. Shouldn't drip on its side, but might. Put something down to protect the carpet. Of course if you're not using the garage to park in you could just raise the lift, throw a table cloth over it, and use it for beverage service.

One thing to watch out for (not storage related). Unless the floor is pretty rough the lift will be inclined to slide back when loading a heavy motorcycle. This is because the wheels are on the ramp end and there is little weight on the legs at the clamp end until the motorcycle is on. A stop bolted to the floor or a block of wood to the wall will keep the lift in place. Also, holes for the U-bolts for tying down are centered on the lift. They really should be moved close to the clamp so you can jack the free end of the motorcycle up to work on wheels and tires.

I had a toggle on my driving/fog lights. I replaced it this winter with a lighted rocker. The rocker uses a rectangular hole, but it's pretty easy to enlarge and square off the round one. I uses a switch like this one except in amber. I used the same switch in green for my tape-aux conversion. I got the switches at a local electronics store for under $10. They are rated at 10 amp, so theoretically they should run a pair of 55w lights. I used a relay though, and I recommend they be done that way.

Rubber goes down. Holds the top of the headlight bezel in place.

Gary, One of my suppliers lists the EBC MKII rotor. Let me know if you end up needing one.

In my shop I won't touch anything that might be safety related on a Chinese knock off. They're so poorly made that I'm worried about picking up liability on the things. There is also a problem that they seem to change parts without changing the part number. The part you order this year might be different than the same number two years ago. I do a lot of valve lash jobs on them. Seems the machining is so poor they tighten up to where they actually won't run at 700-1000 miles.

Small diaphragms on the side are air cut off valves. They reduce idle air when coasting to reduce backfiring. You cannot get a new set of carbs. Any used ones are an unknown quantity. Personally, I'd suggest rebuilding the ones you have. Then you'll know what you've got.

Venture weighs a tad more. Venture includes the trunk, intercom, AM/FM, cassette and CB. No way you're ever going to put a cassette deck on a Tour.

Yeah, Cathy had the same problem. Light turns green, drop clutch, fall over. She got real good at picking the bike up though. Finally I took her out on our street (dead end, almost no traffic) and had her put it in 3rd gear to start out. Her eyes got the size of saucers and she said "in class they said...." and I told her to just do it. Nothing like a few starts in a higher gear to teach how to feather the clutch. 10 minutes later she was a pro. Hasn't had to pick up the bike since.

My wife, a reluctant passenger, popped up in 2011 that she wanted to try riding her own. I think Bob gave good advice: The V-Star 650 or something similar would be a good starter bike. In the case of my wife we stumbled on an old 750 Shadow that already had beginner scars. The very first thing is get her enrolled in the MSF BRC. My wife and two of her friends took the course together last spring and they ride better than many with years of experience.

You know, he hadn't exactly had a lot of time to get anything moving on this. Really probably hasn't even had a chance to think it through. I'd think the smart first step would to be to have a discussion with him later today or tomorrow where you find out his plans and if necessary make it clear that the place is unlivable as is. Most localities have pretty strong ordinances on rental property. Those folks don't take kindly if major repairs are left hanging.

You've got to do it from the sides. Bike fully assembled and running.

Vacuum leak will do that too. Very small amounts of starting ether around carb boots and vacuum hoses will let you check it. Change in idle=leak found.

The Hazard circuit has a different fuse than the signals. I suspect that means a different flasher, although it might be in the same package. The hazard switch is where the two functions come together. If it is unplugged nothing works. I suppose the same might be true if it's broken.

My GPS isn't very visible in the sunlight anyhow, that's why I've got it piped to the intercom so I can hear the directions. I don't think the cover makes it any worse, may even make it better because it's got a bit of a matte finish so it doesn't glare.

I use an Aquabox for my GPS (not garmin). It does the job. Stays dry even though I've got a hole drilled in the bottom to get cables in. Remember if you're going to run wires to it to get a box large enough for the connectors. Mine ended up barely fitting with connector to the intercom patch cable. I don't have any problem operating the touch screen through the membrane, at least not any more than I'd expect with the gloves I wear. It's got a place to padlock it shut, but I don't use it. Seems kind of pointless when the thing could be cut open with a pocket knife. I power mine too. It does throw off enough heat that the foam pad behind it got a little funky.

Because the coefficient of thermal expansion of aluminum is higher than steel they'll loosen up as the engine gets colder. It's possible the loose ones would have been in spec at 68 degrees.