MiCarl

It does. It's in the picture but because of the angle it looks like an extension of the away leg. In reality it's perpendicular to the leg and makes the footprint width about 4'. Not sure it's really necessary though, I think it's there for when the optional ATV wings are on the lift.

If you're not keeping the stock horns you can hook the existing horn connectors to terminals 85 & 86 (doesn't matter which polarity) of the relay, run the battery (+) to terminal 30 and connect 87 to the horn (+)

If you do replace it you might consider THIS ONE. This is the daily work horse in my shop. Instead of a removable panel down the center the whole tail section pulls off. That way you can grab the wheel from the side to raise and lower instead of working through a slot.

Noise isn't any worse than an air gun.

From the picture it'd be easy to conclude that it was a hand pump if you hadn't seen one in person. Looking carefully you can see the hex at the base of the handle - the air hose screws in there. Directly below that fitting you can see the wire loop hanging - it is to lock the lever depressed so you don't have to hold onto it while it sucks. That lets you leave it to keep the master cylinder topped off. Here is the larger picture of it: http://images.motorcycle-superstore.com/ProductImages/OG/0000-BikeMaster-Brake-Fluid-Bleeder----MCSS.jpg

I have the foot pump only version and had a similar problem. While it was still in warranty I wasn't really interested in dragging it back to the store. From the sound I could tell that something was stuck open and bleeding the pressure off. Several very swift pumps of the pedal cleared the problem up. Before that though it's a good idea to check the oil level, even if you don't see any leaks. Low oil will let it raise a bit then not go higher.

I've got one like the bike master one that I got at Harbor Freight. Probably came from the same factory in China. Doesn't have the dual hook up, and I agree the dual hook up seems pointless. Since I wrench for a living mine sees quite a bit of use. IMO it can't be beat. It does use a lot of air though, my compressor is rated 6.5CFM @ 90PSI and it just squeaks by. I wouldn't want to try using a much smaller air supply.

I was once offered a position as a Financial Advisor with one of the big firms (don't remember which one any more). The way I would get paid is with 1% of my client accounts. I looked at the performance of their options and the best ones were tax efficient index type funds, no surprise there. I asked why anyone in his right mind would give me 1% of his assets every year when he could buy the same investment from a discount broker. Their answer wasn't very satisfactory so I moved on to other things. IMO, if you want help, you should go to someone who bills by the hour and not someone that skims a percentage or gets commissions for selling you stuff. A good one should spend more time asking questions and listening than talking. I'd be very cautious of any form of annuity. Unfortunately there aren't any options for a decent return today without taking on some risk. Stocks have been good, and will continue to be good until they aren't. When they go bad they could go very bad very fast. A financial adviser and a tax preparer aren't the same thing. Take each problem to the appropriate specialist. If you're trying to figure out how to structure some form of payout you should probably be talking to a tax accountant.

Well Dan, if there is money left at the end of the month the only reasonable thing to do is take a mistress. Probably the 2nd month The Warden will buy you a 1st gen to make sure there isn't any extra spendin' money.

Harbor Freight lift for $330. Coupon

The ignition module is a black box approx 4"x4"x1" thick mounted ahead of the battery. Normally challenging to get to, but should be easy with the engine out. I haven't looked at the diagrams, but the 91 module should have fewer wires going to the pick up coil. So you shouldn't have to run extra wire, but may have to move some around in the connectors. Not sure if the connectors are the same or not. Easiest thing to do is probably to just transfer the pick up coils from the 89 into the 91 engine.

Twisting them back and forth a bit will help too. Probably can't twist if you get too crazy with the WD-40 though....... I like to put a bit of fork oil on them at re-assembly in the hopes they'll come off easier next time. Doesn't seem to make much difference though.

They aren't generally included in a rebuild kit, need to purchase individually. Yamaha calls it "Diaphragm Set 5" and has an MSRP of $60.49. Part number 3LD-1490H-00-00 available from an on line seller for $43.55. Aftermarket they're typically called "Air Cut off Valve". I list them HERE at $32.99. Use coupon code "VentureRider" at check out for 15% off.

I started a post last night trying to say that, but it got out of hand with detail. Most volt meters measure RMS voltage rather than peak voltage. RMS is an average which converts directly to DC (minus the losses Jeff mentioned).

Brad, 25 isn't high. I'm guessing that is at idle........ Remember, in your test you have no load on it so the voltage goes way high. When you connect it to the motorcycle current begins to flow and the voltage will drop a lot. Motorcycles that have an unloaded AC output spec. are usually above 60V at 4-5K rpm. The test you're doing is really only of use to find if you have a short. It's a little better than using an ohmmeter because at voltage you can have a "leak" through bad insulation. If there is a "leak" the voltage will be below spec. The voltage will also be low if there is a problem with the magnet in the rotor. There is really no way to make the voltage too high without putting extra windings on the armature or a stronger magnet in the rotor. Because of the limited space the wire would be so thin it'd burn up as soon as it had a load on it. I suspect that the way high output stators are made is with extra windings (higher voltage). They might get away with thinner wire and insulation by using better materials, but I suspect most of what they do is a lot of detail in how they're wound so they don't waste any space.

It's not a mis read. If fuel is dumping into the cylinder it will leak down into the crankcase. Check to see if your oil level has gone up and give a good sniff in the oil fill hole. You're also at risk for hydro-locking. That's where there is enough fuel on top of the piston it can't rise all the way to the top on the compression stroke. If you have that condition and another cylinder fires it will do major damage.

Nope. If you're dumping fuel it's going to be a problem with the float and valve. Unrelated.

They'll definitely mess up the idle, which the choke would help. Probably wouldn't lead to a stone cold cylinder though. Based on what I've seen I'd bet cash money there are more issues. Best to do the whole job.

KMs Dan, not miles.

That is the air cut off valve diaphragm. The valve reduces idle air when coasting to reduce popping. When the diaphragm is torn extra air gets in and makes things lean. Even aftermarket the little buggers are pricey.

On this end of the country we are separated from Canada by water, much of it wide. You have to cross by bridge or tunnel at one of the few narrow places. Those narrow places tend to have major cities on both sides.

Why wasn't Juan's .357 Mag already loaded when Marvin stole his skateboard?

Kinda looks like he climbed on and dozed off. He isn't hibernating, is he?

Gary, as much as I hate to disagree with you I must on this statement. I use this type of balancer in my shop and I can easily find less than 5g imbalance. Since 5g is the lightest weight I've seen it is more than good enough. Spin balancing may be theoretically more accurate, but if you can't get the weights it's pointless. Furthermore if the spin balancer isn't kept calibrated it'll give incorrect results. So long as gravity doesn't move around mine is repeatable. One nice thing about spin balancers is they tell exactly how much weight to use instead of trail and error. I've done it often enough with the one I have I can usually get within 10 grams just by how it feels. Considering set up time on a spin balancer I may be just as quick as spin balancing. Where high speed spin balancing is essential is a dynamic balance where both the inside and outside of the wheel are balanced to prevent wobble. Important on car and truck tires but not used on motorcycles. Now I have to state that my balancer has its own bearings and axle. If you're putting your axle through the wheel and hanging it on a couple cinder blocks the condition of the bearings and drag from the seals will affect your results. There are ways to overcome that too, but time consuming. By the way, you'd have to really mess with a rotor to change its balance enough to show up as 5g way out at the rim. That's why they just don't matter.

I seriously doubt if you got pencil lead into one valve seat, much less both of them. It's much more likely your valve clearances are 0.19 which is in spec. I assume you have the plugs out. Ground all the plug leads or disconnect the ignition. Spin it a few times with the starter. Pencil lead will crumble into a powder and fall off the valve if you really have any there.