MiCarl

I used to have a similar tach issue on my 89 when it got good and wet. Also dropped one or more cylinders when it happened. The tach reads the signal to one of the coils (2 I think) and if that part of the ignition system cuts out you loose the tach too. In my case it only happened after a vigorous washing, never from just rain. I haven't observed the problem since I replaced the TCI.

My 89 only takes about 3.5 gallons when it reads empty. It still runs when the gauge reads E even without switching to RES. My guess would be debris in the tank, partially clogged fuel filter or failing fuel pump which need the extra head of more fuel in the tank to flow enough to the carburetors. Replace the fuel filter. While you have it off make sure you get lots of flow from the line at ON and RES. I wouldn't be surprised if you also need to go through the carburetors.

If those tubes turn by hand they are also probably leaking. The air leak will make it difficult to set a proper idle.

V-STAR 650 has an adjustable tappet. No shims required. If you're only blowing 80 on a cold rear cylinder you've got big trouble. If they're tight enough to leak cold they're likely to be burned. But I don't think that's your whole problem. A poor compression cylinder behaves better at higher rpm. You've probably still got fuel/air issues.

Do not disassemble any further. Grease the driveshaft splines and wheel splines with molly grease. Reinstall the final drive housing. Easiest time to change the gear oil is with the final drive on the bike and the wheel off.

It also wouldn't hurt to hose everything down with penetrating oil and let it soak over night.

That's where mine are. Been happy there for several years.

National Cycle sells a product called Rain Zip. It does a pretty decent job on my 89 at speeds above 45mph or so. At slow speeds it doesn't help much.

Lien holders should be listed on the title. Not necessarily a bad thing, but another person to be involved in finalizing the transaction.

I've been using Sta-Bil for 30 years on everything from push mowers to marine engines. That push mower generally sits 7-8 months, same with the boat motor. The generator gets started every 4 or 5 months. Never a problem with any of it. I call BS.

Silicate and silicone are not the same thing..... But you are correct, silicate will damage SOME water pumps. Here at the shop I typically use silicate free, pre-mixed Prestone.

Exactly. It's a full engine tear down and reassembly to replace the case.

My previous helmet was an AFX FX-100 (full face). It was quite comfortable and did its job well when I slid down the road on my face. Heck of a deal at $60 (number of years ago) from JC Whitney. Using their sizing guide I ended up with a large, which fits perfectly. I still use it to test ride bikes at the shop where I can leave the gouged face shield up. I replaced it with an HJC IS-16. I'm in an XL and frankly it is tighter than the large FX-100. The ventilation definitely is more effective on my HJC.

The cable drives the speedometer directly. The odometer is driven off the speedometer by a plastic gear. Plastic gear has been known to wear out.

That is correct. It should never run or start if it's in gear or the side stand is down.

My point was that if the RESUME light isn't lighting it's probably not the clutch or brake switches. More likely the set switch, a connector in the harness, or the control module itself.

On my 89 when I had trouble with the clutch switch the symptom was that when I pushed the set button the "RESUME" light would immediately come on. But it's easy enough to test - just push out on the clutch with your fingers and see if it works properly.

If you've got two cylinders not firing, or misbehaving the same way, it makes sense to start out by tackling the items they share. - They each have their own coil, unlikely both failed the same way at the same time. - They share a TCI, but my understanding in the box is it's essentially 4 TCIs in one package. In other words they all fail or just one goes out. While the motorcycle has 4 pick up coils, they're actually 2 pairs. I suspect within a pair they share some common wiring. What I don't know is if 1 & 3 (the rear cylinders) are on the same pair. Some work with the electrical diagram could help sort it out. On the other hand, DINGY probably has the answer memorized.

You definitely can. You don't have to on any motorcycle, but life is easier if you start with them close. Personally I don't mess with strips of business card etc. I just look through them and make sure the little crescents of light look the same. I generally get them within 2" Hg just by looking through them.

Are you sure all the seals and lines are compatible with your alternate fluid? How about the viscosity, will it be correct to work with all the ports, passages and orifices? DOT4 is very inexpensive. Why not just change it every couple years and put your effort into something more productive?

Primary gear noise is not speed dependent, it's RPM dependent. If it's the primary gear noise it'll do it in neutral. If the bike has to be in gear it'll be something in the drive line.

He should acquire a PAPER service manual. They're much more convenient than electronic manuals, especially for the computer illiterate. I generally buy from repairmanual.com but I am sure there are others, including eBay.

I actually have a Harley acquaintance that is a real bike bigot. When he found out I bought my first Yamaha he said: "Well, I tell everyone that a Jap bike is OK when you're starting out, but if you end up really riding you should have a Harley."

Lots easier to swap tires than rotors.