MiCarl

I do believe that oils with the Energy Conserving label MAY be a problem for SOME clutches. Most modern motorcycles specify an API SG classification. Until well into the 90s motorcycle manufacturers were specifying an SE or SF classification. My 1982 XJ 650 wanted an SE classification. It went many happy miles on Accel brand 10W40 SF oil from Wal*Mart. I use it for all the motorcycles through my shop that call for an SF or lower classification. It isn't always available. Last I bought was $2.57/quart. Newer motorcycles get Maxima 10W40 SG motorcycle oil. Mostly because I don't want someone claiming I damaged their motorcycle using an SJ car oil. It costs about $27/gallon. My 89 Venture and my wife's 83 750 Shadow both get SuperTECH universal 15W40. $10.57/gallon at Wal*Mart.

Assuming the upper tube is in good shape you've got a failed seal then. It may have been defective when you got it or got damaged on the install. I wouldn't mess around with modifying it, I'd throw a new seal in.

It will click periodically when fuel is being used, and it is fairly loud. Can't say I've noticed mine while running though. If you're missing panels it might sound louder. Also, if its rubber mount is cooked or the pump is up against something it could transmit sound.

Something isn't right. The rest of us just put seals in and ride. Is it leaking around the upper tube, or around the outside of the seal?

Are you sure the seals are in the right way? Double lip down, single up. BTW, I agree with Gary. That washer goes in with the raised edge up toward the seal.

CB uses PL-259. Motorola goes to the AM/FM

If you've got any audio system you may need a noise filter on the power supply. Won't hurt anything to try without. If you have noise you can buy something at the car audio shop for a fraction of the Yamaha price, and it'll probably work better too.

1NL-81965-01-00 CONDENSER, SMOOTHING It's in the Audio 1 fiche. My guess is it was part of power supply noise reduction for the audio system. It was not used in 89 but turned back up in the 2nd gen.

My 89 would have been sitting on the rim after that much time.

Diaphragm leaks make it go lean. But they're easy enough to inspect. If you're rich it almost has to be the floats or float valves.

Yep. It's a pretty common configuration. Google up Sierra Motorcycle Electronics.

Don't you have a Royale? It should have an intercom and you only need headsets.

It's a cushion where the muffler attaches to the frame. It installs exactly where you described. It won't have anything to do with keeping the rider foot from getting hot. It costs so much because they can...... I've found that I tend to rest my right foot against the clutch housing. The boot heats up and my foot gets quite warm. If I remember to leave a bit of an air gap I'm much more comfortable.

I'd be willing to bet that's where the fuel ends up if there is a stuck float. Personally, I'd turn off the fuel cock, let it run until it stumbles then re-open the fuel cock. You might get lucky and break it loose.

On the 1st Gen the hazard lights have their own fuse. It's not in the fuse panel on top of the battery. There is another fuse box to the right of the steering head, it's in there. If I recall correctly it's an ATM fuse and there are are labels on the top of the box to help in identifying them.

Draws 11 amps cooling, 14 heating. Not for a Venture.......

Just re-read your post. Nothing about the hazard flasher should affect the driving lights, UNLESS someone wired their power the hazard circuit. Of course wiring them to the hazard circuit would overload it and risk blowing the fuse.....

When I had the same symptoms on my 1st gen it was a blown fuse. Check that first.

Mine has been doing it for quite some time with no change. Still, I expect to have to push start one day........

I suspect you are hearing a failing starter clutch. When the oil is hot it's slipperier and the clutch is more noticeable. The starter clutch isn't part of the starter assembly - it sits behind the alternator rotor.

FULL SET OF NEW CARBURETOR HOLDERS INCLUDING O-RINGS Enter "VentureRider" in the coupon code box at check out for 15% off.

I've had that lift in my shop for five years. The first three years it was the only lift I had. Two years ago I added an air lift with the L shaped clamp. While I do most of the work on the newer air lift, the HF lift still gets pressed into regular service. I use it when: + The air lift is tied up with a job and I need to sling a small job through. + Small to mid-sized motorcycles that I expect to spend time with major dis-assembly while I wait for parts. That way I don't have to box everything up and move it to keep working. + I change front tires by loading the bike onto the lift backward. Any bike that has low pipes, fender or bags that the won't clear the L clamp get done on the HF lift. This is the real beauty of the short clamp on the HF lift. NOTE! Putting a motorcycle on a table lift backward takes quite a bit of skill. I don't recommend learning it with a heavy motorcycle like the Ventures. Now, the reasons the air lift gets most of the work: + As many times a day as I run motorcycles up and down that foot pump is really tiring. + The L shaped clamp makes it fairly easy to secure any motorcycle without assistance. It is challenging to load most cruiser style motorcycles without a helper because the side stand extends beyond the edge of the table. This is not an issue with sport bikes and early standards because their stands will rest on the table while I strap them down. + Dropping the rear tire of a large motorcycle through that trap door pretty much demands an assistant because the wheel needs to be passed through the hole. On my air lift the whole rear of the lift is removable so I can just lower the wheel without a hand off. ________________________________________ One nice thing about the Harbor Freight hydraulic lift is the edges of the table are flanged upward. This means things never roll off the sides. With any table lift you need a jack to do tire service on most motorcycles. Some motorcycles that have center stands can be done without a jack, this included the 1st gen Ventures.

I agree. A strip of electrical tape does a better job than the glove.

My wife's Shadow does a similar thing in neutral, but will stop when in 1st gear. What I think it is is one of her shift forks is either bent or worn, and in neutral either the 1st or 2nd gear dogs are rattling against their mates. It might be interesting to try yours in all gears and see if the noise goes away in any gear.

AND As the pressure comes up it takes longer for the fuel to move out of the pump, so the clicking slows down.