MiCarl

Size, speed and load rating works just like car tires. Load is weight on that tire. Get load and speed ratings at least equivalent to what the OEM used. Weight distribution is not 50/50 front/rear. Only difference is front and rear tires are specific to that end of the motorcycle and some tires have TT (Tube Type) added to the designation, which means an inner tube is required. You also need an inner tube regardless of tire type with wire wheels (with the exception of some European models). LOAD AND SPEED RATING INFORMATION HERE.

The protection from lightning in a motor vehicle isn't the tires, it's the metal cage around you. The lightning would prefer to travel through that than your body. The protection is pretty good, but I don't think it's a sure thing. Of course the heat and sonic boom (that's what thunder is) can still rattle your marbles. Think about that if you're in a convertible too. Lightning will quite happily pass through that thin vinyl top and your poor body on its way to the ground.

We keep vehicles forever. I figure mechanical problems can be repaired but rust always wins. For that reason I go Chevrolet or GMC, even though I think GM trucks have more than their fair share of mechanical issues. Having said that, my 2007 Colorado that spent most of its life in the California desert is the only one I've ever seen with rust (rocker panels). And it's not stone damage, they're rusting from the inside. Around here Dodge trucks seem to be rusting through 10 minutes off the dealer lot. Ford is better than dodge but as you know rockers and door bottoms don't hold up on them. There aren't enough imports here to have an opinion on how they hold up.

Your assembly order is correct. Here's the trick to putting it together: Install the damping rod inside the inner fork tube. Install the fork spring in the inner fork tube. Install the fork cap a few turns to hold the spring and damping rod in place. Hold the inner fork tube assembly with the damping rod pointing up. Install the springs and taper spindle as you have in your picture. Lower the outer fork tube over all that stuff and install the damping rod bolt with locking sealant. Torque the damping rod bolt. Remove the fork cap and spring. Install upper fork bushing, seal and dust seal. Add fork oil Reinstall fork spring and fork cap.

You need to pull the mufflers to get the axle out. It's way easier to work on if you pull the caliper off the bracket which simpler if you remove the right bag. The guards can all stay in place. You could probably do it without removing the bag but why fight with it and risk breaking something in the process?

13 is way too high. It's a tapered roller bearing, it should only have enough torque to make it snug, any more will damage it. The initial value is just to make sure it's seated and not floating on grease. Speaking of grease, I believe Yamaha specifies a lithium soap grease. That's a bad idea because it will hammer out and the bearing will be dry. Use the same moly grease you use for drive splines, it'll stay in the bearing much better.

Looking at the Flyinfool topic I realized I made an error. Even though I don't ride anymore I do need a heads up when he cranks up that snow machine. I guess I'll stick around for awhile. It looks like this is "Hotel California".

These are mine: A 1994 Speedex 1631 built just down the road from you in Ravenna, and a 1948 Farmall Cub.

Some of you may have noticed not much here from me the last year or two. We just weren't riding much (other interests) so we sold our motorcycles last year. March 31 I closed my shop and retired. Cathy will retire in June and we'll spend the remainder of the year getting our house ready to sell so we can move to the country. Cathy insists that she needs a basement and I need a pole barn and some space to play with my new hobby - tractors. Anyhow, I got my notice that my subscription to VR.org will expire April 13 and I'm not planning to renew. It's been a pleasure to participate here and I wish you all the best. Ride safe!

If I recall right: 10mm socket, universal and lots of extension. Can get to them through the head lamp opening.

Lean runs hot so unless there is some sort of reference out there the IR thermometer won't help you. I like to use a digital tach. Turn each cylinder to the fastest idle speed then make it richer until the RPM starts to fall off. You have to reset the idle to 1000RPM after each cylinder because setting them up at a different speed will have them incorrect for 1000RPM.

Damn! I thought I was going to get through this week without learning anything.

There were multiple blanks and cuts. You need to get the code off the ignition switch which will identify both. A locksmith can then make the correct key.

Ignore the silicone. It wasn't there from the factory. Some shade tree hack thought it needed it. Close off the hole. Duct tape will probably do the trick.

Aside from Harley issues people have different ideas. Years ago I was talking to someone and mentioned that my wife and I tend to own our vehicles until driven down to the nub. He said "I do the same thing, I generally keep them until they have almost 100k miles on them". I asked him to let me know next time he has a 'used up' vehicle he needs to unload. I consider 100k barely enough mileage to break in and work out the factory kinks.

Agreed. When multiple gremlins dance together a ground is the first suspect. Unfortunately one of the toughest problems to track down too......

I've got a friend that needed a fairing half. He noticed a fairing stay on eBay that had the fairing he needed still attached for $20 and bought it. It cost him more in shipping than he paid for the parts but he ended up with a sweet deal on the fairing. Lesson is, don't restrict your search too much. No telling what someone might give away.

You may not be vintage but your memory is shot. (Or maybe it's your eyes). That red and white bass killer is a Jitterbug.

My tonneau cover folds open to the front of the bed and can be locked in that position. Only time I need to remove it is if I need height at the front of the bed, which requires loosening just 2 screws to lift it from the track.

The seal is a copper crush washer. The same thing used on oil drains and brake banjo bolts. You should be using a socket head cap screw and you won't have to grind anything. BTW, earlier you said 12mm which I don't believe is correct. I think they're 8mm.

As MarCarl said - get the bolt from any decent hardware supply. The copper washers can be got at an auto parts store.

I don't think young people are "motor crazy" like many of us are/were growing up. Quite a few of them aren't even interested in driving a cage, they just use a ride hailing service when they need to get from A to B. Their passions tend to have display screens. Many have so much debt they may never be able to own a home much less a $20,000 + ride. Traffic continues to get worse and many drivers are fiddling with a phone or on dope. It takes a lot of the pleasure away from riding. I think the market contraction will continue and many, including HD, will cease to exist. I wouldn't be surprised if in ten years Honda and Suzuki are the only mass market brands.

So, as usual, I didn't read/comprehend everything: Electric must be about the most expensive way to heat water. In the set up you're talking about your water will always be heated by the electric. All that tank will do is use some gas to keep it heated (which you don't need). A better option might be to put the on demand on the hot side of the tank heater. That way it won't heat at all unless the tank gets cold. Save you a fortune on electricity. Of course that presumes the hot water in to the demand system won't cause a problem. I've got to agree with uncledg: A second heater or one larger heater would be a better solution. Depending on how you're plumbed you might be able to have a separate heater on each unit without a lot of work. Our home has two 50 gallon natural gas heaters. One serves the master bath and laundry. The other serves the kitchen and other bathrooms. We've never had a hot water problem. Another benefit is we don't have any long runs to delay getting hot water.

We've got a propane demand heater on our mobile home. It can keep up with unlimited usage so I don't see why you'd keep the conventional heater. It would just end up being a storage tank which you won't need. I will agree with BlueSky, it needs pretty good flow to kick on. It might be an issue with a low flow shower head, which would also be true if you were using it to preheat the water to the tank. Somehow all my shower heads "open up" so it's not an issue for me. BTW, demand heaters use A LOT of gas when running. You'll need to make sure you have sufficient supply.

Remember, outboard motors don't have wet clutches and your motorcycle does. If you decide to try it read the label carefully to make sure it doesn't have any friction modifiers that can cause trouble with your clutch.