MiCarl

I've seen this before, but on a Honda. Guy brought it to me and said it wasn't charging. I started it up and put a meter on it, was getting ~ 14V at idle. As soon as I raised it even a little bit off idle it dropped to the low 12s. Turned out to be the regulator/rectifier.

The R/R won't work properly without a battery to damp the system. If the battery failed open it's possible for the R/R to send voltage spikes that damage components. It needs to have a good, fully charged battery installed and the charging system checked. Once the charging system works properly every electrical system on the bike needs to be checked and repaired/replaced as necessary. The fuel pump is probably one of the least susceptible electrical components. If you got a spike that cooked that you're probably going to find lots of stuff damaged.

Ok, I'm at the shop so grabbed the service manual..... The pictures in the service manual show a plain washer (spacer). I don't see any discussion of how to orient it. I haven't been in my forks for several years so I cannot swear what they've got. Some forks use a washer that has the OD bent upward toward the seal. I assumed this is what you meant by "conical". Near as I can tell from the book that's not what the Venture is supposed to have. I wonder if some PO used a substitute he shouldn't have...... If it's got the wrong washer it could be forcing you to distort the seal to get it in. That might lead to leaking...... There is indeed a washer (seal spacer) above and below the seal. They're different part numbers though. As you can see in the photo you posted the upper washer has a larger ID to allow for the upward lip on the oil seal, thickness may also be different. Service manual could be clearer about that.......

If you use the Caswell you need to pay attention to ambient temperature. They recommend you don't use it below 70 degrees and that is good advice. Near 70 it doesn't flow well. I get good flow at 80 degrees and don't have a problem with it curing too fast.

Yamaha is not showing the part superseded. Check the package, the part number should be 26H-23149-00-00. I highlighter the 9 for a reason, the washer above the seal is part number 26H-23146-00-00

More likely someone backed into it, knocking it over. BUMMER! Any surveillance cameras around?

I agree. If the shipper got it onto his property (apparently inside a fence even) then you've done your part. You're not liable if someone stole it from him.

I use the Caswell too. You can seal any opening with tape or putty because it won't dissolve them. Just remember not to let it set up in screw threads (fuel tap mounting holes for instance) or vent tubes. When it is starting to get tacky (I watch the excess) I blow out any orifices. A bit farther along when it's rubbery I use an oiled tap to chase any threads. I also pull the tape from any openings (fuel tap again) and trim with a blade so the hole doesn't end up under sized.

The start button turns off the stock headlight circuit when pressed. When you release the button the headlight circuit is re-energized.

It won't run backward, so you can rule that out. You're in a tough spot if you can't hear it, or at least in a tough spot communicating about it. Best guess is electrical gremlin of some sort. Or maybe you had to much caffeine and it wasn't running at all.

It's not a big deal to put in. Put bike on center stand, remove axle nut, loosen pinch bolt, slide axle out. Slip washer in and reinstall axle. Torque down and install cotter pin. 20 minute job, including coffee break.

You need to make sure the needles aren't stuck in their jets or you can pull the needle through the bottom of the slide. Pull the main jet and needle jet out the bottom of the carbs. Spray just a bit of carb cleaner in there. I have had luck prying stuck slides up by hitting them with a shot of carb cleaner (through the bore, not under the diaphragm) and prying up gently with the handle end of a small screwdriver. Sometimes it takes a few squirts before enough cleaner wicks up through the varnish to break them loose. After they come out dry off the diaphragms to minimize any chance of the cleaner damaging them.

I mis-stated something earlier. Disconnection the anti-dives isn't the same as the block off plates. Disconnecting leaves the passage open, where the block off plate keeps it closed. Terribly sorry for my hasty oversight. Having cleared that up, I'm not convinced they actually do much. Dingy has dissected the internals and is of the conclusion that they should only have effect at the very bottom of travel. Your diving is probably because you didn't use the PVC spacer. You need the preload on the spring. When you say "stiff" I wonder if you don't mean harsh. If the fork oil is too heavy the ride will be harsh. Is the oil still what the PO had in? If so, he may have used heavy oil in a misguided attempt to compensate for poor springs. What many people don't understand is the spring and oil have different functions: The spring supports the weight of the motorcycle and absorbs shock from the bumps in the road. If the suspension is bottoming out it's because the spring is too soft or doesn't have enough preload. In addition to lubrication, the fork oil is to damp oscillation of the fork. Without the oil you have a pogo stick and will go bouncing down the road. When the fork moves, the oil is forced through orifices to convert the energy in the spring into heat and stopping excessive bounce. If the oil is too light it'll be like riding a boat, too heavy and the fork won't move fast enough to absorb the big bumps - leading to a harsh ride. If it were mine I'd put in the recommended quantity of 10w fork oil and the spacer supplied by Progressive. I'd also reconnect the anti-dives. See how it rides and work from there.

IIRC the progressive springs require a bit less oil. If the oil level is too high they effectively bottom early. According to Progressive the maximum oil level is 5.5". Also, you did install the spacers that came with the springs?

At some point something will become obsolete and you'll be forced to upgrade. Until then, master the new version on the Hog guinea pigs.

Assuming the anti-dives were working properly disconnecting them would have the same effect as using the block off plate.

I believe if it had a pull through rubber stem it would be the same as automotive. In other words, get one from the nearest auto parts store.

You can test how much it'll affect the ride as currently set up by simply unplugging the anti-dive solenoids. The plugs are accessible through the head light opening, toward the right fairing.

If it's an exhaust valve I might go down a shim size, especially if you go a long time before checking them. On an intake I'd let it be.

Here's where I think you're having trouble: When you go to http://www.venturerider.org you're not quite in the forum. You're on a landing page that shows you many things, including recent posts from the forum. To get to a the forum proper you need to choose "Forum" at the top left. There you'll see the bulletin board format I think you're probably looking for.

Been awhile since I had mine off, but I think it's just a friction fit.

Here is what I tell my customers about checking valve lash: "It's probably just fine. But if you're the 1 in 100 that isn't you need to know about it before it becomes a very expensive issue."

If the needle is responding slowly it's probably dirty where the shaft passes through the bearing. Mine used to be slow when it was cold. I disassembled and used some RadioShack TV tuner cleaner/lube on it. It contains a very light machine oil. Problem solved. Unfortunately, I don't believe RadioShack sells the stuff any more. The movement is very similar to a clock. You might lube it with some clock oil. Of course everything in there is very delicate. Work in a clean space and use a lot of caution.

I replied to your PM. There is a good chance you'll need the rubber donuts around the cover bolts. They act as a spring to put the proper down force on the cover. After 20 years or so they dry out and loose their elasticity, resulting in the cover not being held down tight. They're not particularly expensive, but it really adds up when you by 16 of them.

Why didn't I think of that? Probably because I replace bushings and seals every time I disassemble a fork so I don't even think about it any more. The bushings keep the tubes centered and parallel. If they're worn the tubes won't align properly, the seal will be distorted and will wear fast.