MiCarl

Mine was similar: About 45 years old. Went into the buffet with my wife, who is older. Wife made a bee-line to the restroom. I told the cashier two adults. She proceeded to ask if it was one senior and one regular. I told the cashier she was lucky my wife wasn't there to hear that as she'd be really pissed. Cashier said "I meant you sir."

I've only done a MKII, but I believe they're the same. If I remember correctly the seal will slide easily down the shaft to where the shaft diameter increases just a bit before the coupler splines. If there is a step (collar?) it might be part of the old seal, it's got a metal band on it. Compare it carefully to the new seal, if it's got the same outer diameter as the small end of the seal part of the old one is still there. Assuming all the old seal is off you should be able to use an open end wrench just larger than the shaft diameter to tap the seal home.

Throw it away. It's just something to cause trouble if you don't have cruise.

Not that you shouldn't replace the diaphragms, but when I replaced them on my '89 my mileage dropped. I'm now at the low 30s. My compression is at new spec, valves are in spec, carburetors clean and float levels spot on. Ignitech ignition module too. I was thinking that the needle jets/jet needles are worn and using too much fuel. But a recent mod to the audio system has picked up ignition noise that sounds like 1 cylinder. My current thinking is that I have a bad coil/plug wire/plug cap. A project for this winter........

With old rubber and time they can really hold on. Be careful where/how hard you pry - you don't want to break a carburetor body. On reinstall lubricate the boots with a bit of soapy water or silicone lube. If the boots are really stiff, you might consider new ones.

Those plate washers commonly get thrown away with the old filter. I need them often enough it's one of the few parts I actually keep in inventory at the shop. Yamaha packages them 5 per bag/ so you know I'm not the only one that uses a lot of them. I bet your local dealer keeps them on hand too.

My dentist wanted to to a root canal on one of my teeth 40 years ago. He was going from an x-ray. I went to a 2nd dentist that actually examined the thing and said no. I still have the tooth - and the nerve. I also never went back to the original dentist. Get a 2nd opinion.

At idle, 13.25 is a good sign. It should be 14+ at 3K rpm, but never above 15v.

Maybe a longer bolt with a sleeve, so the sleeve is carrying the load instead of the threads.

That sounds like a good idea. I think I'd chase up a spare bolt to use just to make sure the one that holds it together didn't get damaged.

It's behind the radiator, unless it fell out too. That's where they go if you don't keep hold of them.

Both tubes should be the same height. I don't have the manual here, but I think they should be flush to the upper tree. Having them different is twisting the suspension (unless they're different because something is twisted). The spacers you mention hold the air collars down in their proper position. They fall off and get lost quite easily when removing the forks if you don't watch for them. You should get a replacement, and reinstall the forks properly.

Use only fresh DOT4 for assembly. You don't want anything else in there. I remove pistons the same way Squidley described. Only difference is I will stack strips of corrugated cardboard, blow air, remove a strip and repeat. That way both pistons advance. It also limits the speed so you're less likely to send a piston flying.

I'm going to disagree with these guys. The magnet puts up with quite a bit of vibration and some heat in its native environment. I like to use an impact wrench on the puller. The vibration will help break it loose. I'd also be willing to heat the center boss, not out at the edge where the magnets are. Not red hot and not a lot of flame so it overheats the circumference. The hit it with the impact again. Then go have a cup of coffee. There is a good chance that it'll jump off as it cools. You may have to do several cycles before it works free.

Actually, if the stator is bad it won't cook the plug (at least on the bad lead). While you're replacing connectors do the one from the regulator/rectifier to the wire harness. Those burn up too.

Unfortunately there are a lot of things that can cause a hanging idle: + Poor compression on one (or more) cylinder + Idle circuit in one or more carburetors dirty or out of adjustment + Poor sync + Intake leak

I've never done one, but I expect very little will run out (assuming the cooling system is full). Just make sure it's cold when you do it, it'll spray you with scalding coolant if it's hot.

You can turn it over in 5th gear, but it's a heavy bike to be pushing around. Better to turn it with a socket. Remove the 3 Phillips screws in the name plate on the left side of the engine. The cover will pull off giving you access to the rotor bolt. 17mm, I think........ Of course if he's got it hanging open because of the idler gear it's already accessible.

Part of the problem in Michigan is the state Catastrophic Claims Fund. Basically it's reinsurance that picks up expenses after the insurer maxes out. It will pay medical and disability for life. The MCC is assessed by vehicle, not by driver. So you keep repaying it with each vehicle you insure. My wife and I have three trucks and a motorcycle each so we pay five times for just the two of us. On the bikes we only have liability so the MCC is most of the price of the policy. The MCC varies from time to time depending on the health of the fund. It's close to $200/year/vehicle though.

I can't imagine any way the idler gear could fail without taking out its neighbors. Unless somebody just plain lost it.....

You shouldn't even need a screwdriver, I just spread them a bit with my thumbnails. They don't hold the joint on, just hold it tight against the upper tree. You won't be able to get to them until the joint is raised or pulled off. I leave the clip on until I'm ready to pull the fork from the lower tree - handy way to make sure the fork doesn't fall off. Above the air joint is a rubber ring. You need to pull it off and put it somewhere safe for the reinstall. If they pop off when you slide the joint off they go behind the radiator - every time.

Sometimes (not specific to Venture center stand) it's easier to install the spring before bolting the part in place. Then you have whatever it is you're attaching to pull/pry on.

Bob, there is some truth to what you say. Built into the act though is those who have jobs and are younger subsidize those without jobs or older.

The boy is lucky he didn't get put on a sex offender list.

Parts fiche shows it behind the radiator. Hopefully it's actually below the radiator.