MiCarl

I run the Kruz on my first gen, and have put a couple sets on Royal Stars. Don't think I've ever put a set on a 2nd Gen Venture. No problems, and we're getting good life from them. I had some tread separation on my rear (1st gen.). It happened after my front kicked up a large piece of loose asphalt that whacked the rear tire pretty good and went on to do significant damage to the bike behind me. I wasn't too surprised the tire got damaged and replaced it with another Kruz. Probably 50% of the tires I install in my shop are the Kruz. Never had an issue with any of them.

I'd worry that the filter might move around and block important holes in that bolt. If you absolutely have to ride it while you wait for parts I'd be more inclined to run it without a filter at all. But get it back in ASAP.

I wouldn't count on the pipes holding it up. Only the left bearing can be lubed, the others are sealed. Typically bad bearings are rough rather than difficult to push. I think your problem is most likely to be the brakes. I'd put it on the center stand, pull the caliper and see how the wheel feels.

If you have it looked at it's quite likely they will tell you everything is in spec. The problem is that spring was marginal when new. Order up one of Skydoc17's kits. Have them put that in along with replacing anything that is out of spec.

Exactly. The static friction between the friction plates and steel plates lock the clutch up. If there is not enough friction between them they will slip. If you feel them slipping then you have worn plates or a weak spring. I got the impression from one of your posts that you felt slippage with the 10W40 that went away with the 10W60. The extra viscosity will tend to drag the driven plates (steels in a Venture, I believe) along and somewhat mask the slippage. If there is a problem with the clutch it's best to fix it at your convenience rather than allowing the oil to mask it. It will come back, probably at a very inconvenient time. It's a pretty simple job, and not very expensive if done before the steels plates get damaged.

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The difference is the manufacturing process. The end result is chemically identical. That's the essence of the court ruling - if the stuff in the bottle is identical it doesn't mater to the consumer how it got there. As far as why your dealer may have steered you to 20W50: I've only seen the 20W40 and 10W30 in OEM (Yamaha, Suzuki, Honda etc.) packaging. The major distributors offer 20W50 and 10W40, which the dealer can get for less $ than something in an OEM bottle.

The 60 will definitely decrease fuel mileage, question is if it'll be enough to notice. It's still 10w cold, so shouldn't be an issue on cold start. My biggest concern would be the areas that get lubricated by splashing/spraying might not get enough lubrication. Cylinder walls in particular. If I had to bet though, I'd place my money on the engine lasting 200K miles and he spends an extra $20 on fuel getting it there. Oh, one more thing. I could see where the higher viscosity oil could cause some clutch drag. In this particular case though it sounds like the clutch has a problem that the high viscosity is masking. I'll repeat what I said in my earlier post: If the clutch is slipping with 10W40 there is a clutch problem.

Yeah, well... It's December and this is an oil thread so:confused24:

I suspect everything is quieter because the 10W60 probably stays on in a thicker layer, damping the sound. 10W40 might not damp the sound but shouldn't cause any problems. If your clutch is slipping without the -W60 you probably have a clutch problem you are temporarily masking.

Thanks all!

There is probably some truth to that. My wife teaches in a 1st class affluent district. I can tell you it sounds like they spend a lot of time on horse**** rather than teaching. I'll bet those kids in Vietnam don't get "Water Safety Week". When my oldest daughter was in 8th grade (again a pretty good school) she brought Algebra homework home. She had no idea how to do it, so I taught her Algebra. I found out later they were supposed to "estimate" an answer. I'd be willing to bet that if the Vietnamese kids ever estimate it's after they've mastered the skill.......

Seems pretty reasonable to me. They probably cost more than that new. You can't get new anymore and they look to be in good shape.

I think you should double check your specs. IIRC the spec for a 1st gen 1300 is 175psi. I'd expect yours to be similar.

I'd really be thinking that if they were all more or less uniformly low and not much change wet that I should rule out a lot of things before pulling heads: 1) Try a different compression tester. 2) Do a leak down test to see where the compression is going.

No, not the intercom volume control. On the little grey box above the clutch reservoir is another volume control. There is also one on the passenger remote. That control will not turn the volume up, but lets each person turn down from whatever the amp/cb/intercom are set at. So if your passenger likes it loud, you crank the system up and can then turn it down a bit at the handle bar. That capability is what you lose with the Sierra cable. Since you didn't know what I meant I'd guess you never used it and won't miss it.

The other connector part way down your stock cable is for the attenuator in the little control box by the clutch. You can use the Sierra cable (I use one) but you lose the functionality of that little volume knob.

Not Carrier specific and I'm not an expert, but I did stay at Holiday Inn Express once..... When the thermostat calls for heat: 1) the blower runs to evacuate the combustion chamber. 2) the igniter and gas come on 3) the controller detects the flame and turns the igniter off. If for some reason it doesn't light, or the controller doesn't know it's lit, the controller will shut down the gas and go back to step one. After several tries it shuts down and just leaves the blower run. So, you have several things that might cause the problem: 1) igniter doesn't work consistently 2) gas valve doesn't work consistently (which I doubt) 3) flame sensor bad 4) control module malfunctioning 5) improper fuel/air mixture confuses the flame sensor. The furnace in my travel trailer was doing exactly the same thing you describe. Turned out to be dirt behind the gas orifice and the resulting flame wouldn't reliably trigger the flame sensor. I suspect leaves, cob webs, bug nests etc. in the combustion air intake could cause a similar problem.

It is obsolete because it's been updated. New part number is: 11H-12438-10-00 You will also need 3JP-12449-02-0 GASKET, WATER PUMP.

Mechanical seal on the water pump is failing. Time to replace it.

The plug you circled doesn't have coolant behind it. The coolant is coming from somewhere else and running there. You made me go look at mine, and I have a drip on the water pump drain plug. Of course I just put in my parts order this morning. The water pump drain plug is about 3" forward, above and outboard of what you have circled. It's 19mm hex head. You can probably get a crush washer that fits it at the auto parts store.

If you do replace your radio check out Crutchfield You put in your vehicle info and they present all the units that will fit. Then when you select one they list all the accessories you need to put it in, often free unless you're on a real cheap radio. They include very good detailed instructions. You'll end up with a better system than GMC will sell you for way less money.

Signal Dynamics is running their Cyber Monday sale now through Dec. 2. 15% off brake light modules and 20% off LED license plate frames. Plus free shipping on everything. I've used their modules and currently have the AYN frame on both my and my wife's bikes. http://www.signaldynamics.com/cyber-monday-sale/

Our V-4s are essentially a pair of V-twins that share a transmission. The V-twins are pretty durable too. Most of what has come from Japan since around 1980 or so is pretty solid stuff.

Thanks Frank, I'll look into that too. I don't have noise from the radio, CB, or cassette converted to MP3 input. I added a cable to the passenger headset jack to tie in GPS audio. When the GPS isn't connected I pick up the noise. I suspect when I made some mods last winter I lost the ground on the cable shield. When I add a ground with a test lead the noise goes away. I have the noise at all rpm. It's a tick at idle, and becomes a buzz as engine speed increases.