MiCarl

Up here where we have lots of equipment, experience using it and plenty or practice driving in the crap. It still creates a heck of a mess if it comes down hard at rush hour. You might be being a bit too hard on the eggheads, this time.

Happy Birthday Gary!

Unless you're different than the rest of us, the pad backing plates have worn ruts in the front of the caliper. When I rebuilt mine I split the halves and had a welder fill the ruts.

Happy Birthday Larry!

I expect it controls similar to a segway - lean forward to speed up, back to slow. The forces stay in balance so you don't pitch off forward in a stop, or backward accelerating.

Look at THIS.

In my case it's usually right after I put the coffee on.....

Just to clarify - it needs to be on a trailer. The transmission turns any time the rear wheel is turning. It doesn't get lubrication if the engine isn't running. It's apparently at least 25 years old. Skinny should be well down the list of concerns about it.

83 - 89 are very interchangeable. If the frame is an 83 I believe you'll have to either change the ignition module or the vacuum plumbing for the advance. 90-93 went from a TCI to a computerized ignition. If you put one of those engines in an earlier frame you'll have to either downgrade the rotor and pick up in the engine or upgrade the ignition module in the earlier frame. You'd also have to do some work on the wiring harness to use the more modern ignition. The 1300 uses a different carburetor I believe. Life will be easier if you include carburetors in the swap.

Your calculations are correct. Depending on what you're trying to figure out you might use a lower voltage. For instance, your 35 watt lamp is going to pretty much use 35 watts regardless of voltage. When voltage is low the amperage will go up. So it's prudent to size fuses and wires for the lowest voltage the system will see, rather than nominal voltage. Sitting at an intersection at idle with the brakes on you probably are below 12.8 volts.

I've had my hands on a few. Only negative thing I can come up off the cuff is that Suzuki managed to put the battery in a very inconvenient spot. It's in a steel box with a trap door just ahead of the swing arm pivot. The carburetors are not bolted together in a rack like a lot of multi-carb bikes. The front is between the cylinders and the rear is under the seat (hence the reason for the unusual battery location). The rear carb is a bit of a challenge to extract, and the two carbs are linked by a dual cable set up - a bit more challenging to sync. My biggest concern is it's a fairly small bike. Unless she's a real tiny thing, or won't ride many long trips, I'd worry that she'd outgrow it.

Happy birthday Ron!

Just thinking aloud: The RSDT is water cooled. The coolant picks up much of the heat which is then dumped at the radiator, ahead of the engine. Harley's are air cooled. All the engine heat radiates directly outward from the cylinders and heads. I've read somewhere that the heat off the rear cylinder on some models can be very unpleasant for the passenger.

Sea Foam is a solvent. It isn't a lubricant. In the fuel system in inhibits fuel separation and removes gunk that has previously separated from the fuel. In crankcase oil it presumably cleans deposits from the engine innards. Those deposits are from burned oil and combustion products that leak past the rings. Your final drive doesn't have fuel, burned oil or combustion products in it. All the Sea Foam will do there is dilute the gear oil. _________________________________________ Not that you've done it, or would, but I'm amazed at people that shell out for what is presumably a premium lubricant and then dilute it with what is essentially paint stripper.

I'll be at the STAR Touring desk in the Yamaha booth from 3:00 - 5:30. Stop by and say hi.

It's probably the idle circuit. When you load it up either you or the governor is opening the throttle and you're running on the high speed jets. Interestingly, on Saturday mine would only run on full choke, and was fine a week ago. It lives in a detached shed so I speculated it might have some ice in the carb. Sunday I started it up to take to the heated garage to thaw out and it was fine. I think my suspicion was correct and it defrosted soaking in engine heat. You might have a similar issue and find it fine tomorrow. Gotta love ethanol in the fuel.........

As stated, you can charge in the bike. If it was severely discharged, or discharged for a long time, you might find you need to replace it.

I administrate the forum for our Star Touring Chapter. I installed tapatalk service on it because some of my users were requesting it. Since then I've picked up a Nexus 7 tablet and tried using tapatalk with it. It's a more compact way to interact with the forum that is cleaner on a small screen. On the other hand a lot of the bells and whistles are missing, at least for my site. I prefer using a browser, even on the 7" screen. The Android tapatalk app was free, and I'm guessing it's free in the Apple Store too. Makes it pretty cheap to try out......

When you folks are done boxing, please close the door. We're feeling a draft!

Just to clarify - on the install only heat the wheel. Let the bearing spend the night in the freezer to make it even easier.

I sent a PM in reply to yours. Your clutch is similar to the one in this image. You have 6 bolts instead of four. Also, yours has a steel ball between parts 6 and 7 which will roll away if you let it fall out. Best to leave it on the side stand and leave the pushrod tip (6) installed: http://www.dansmc.com/honxr600r_clutch.jpg This cut away view of a clutch makes the six bolts you remove pretty obvious. Yours won't have the shouldered rod protruding from the center: http://www.moto123.com/ArtImages/99562/embrayage-kawa-i001.jpg Finally, this clutch looks like a Virago or V-Star. It is virtually identical to yours. The six bolts, springs and pressure plate have been removed. The clutch plates slide right out from this point: http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LaJc5Cx8Vrg/TkqqdiGwtEI/AAAAAAAABLw/KXAh4PXFB7I/s1600/motorcycle%2Bclutch.jpg

And, it really sucks when you tear up the drive shaft splines. Disassemble it and pack it with moly grease. If it were mine I'd lube it every time I had the rear wheel off. The clutch is a pretty simple job. Get a service manual, or download from the tech library.

Harbor Freight sells a security bit set for small $$. It has all those special tips.

Royale had CB, Cruise control, Intercom. I think maybe the onboard compressor for the suspension was only on the Royale.