MiCarl

I know someone who claims to have done valve lash on a 2nd gen without pulling the carbs. That tells me you should be able to replace the gasket with the carbs in place.

I think in theory, a blind puller will work. I've got the Harbor Freight one and have pulled similar bearings with it. Problem is, if the bearing is really stuck (and they often are) you cannot get enough impact to break it loose. I wore all the skin off both hands trying one. What I did is went back to the method I used before I had the puller: I welded a bolt into the inner race of the bearing I was removing. That gives you something to drive from the back side with a punch. I try to knock them out while they're still hot, which I thinks helps free the bearing.

I'm betting on the ignition module (92 isn't TCI, it's computerized). A component is kicking out as soon as it warms up even a little bit. But the way to diagnose it is to rule everything else out first, including all four coils failing.

TDC on the compression stroke is the place where you CAN measure both the intake and exhaust clearance. Personally, I prefer to turn the engine until the lobe on the one I want to measure points away from the valve. I think it's faster than trying to line up everything perfectly to do intake and exhaust simultaneously.

Stiff probably isn't because they need to be bled. Check the rear caliper. Look for the backing plates on the pads to have worn a slot on the front side of the caliper. If they're hanging up there it'll greatly reduce rear braking force.

Neither tells you the distance they measured at though, so hard to compare. I have a pair of Bad Boys on my '89. Two is way better than one. A couple years ago one failed. The replacement has slightly different pitches than the original. That cacophony is even better than two that are in pitch.

The earlier ones were weak, and prone to breaking. That doesn't mean they all did, just a lot of them. The 86+ had the weakness corrected. That doesn't mean it can't break. Especially if it's been abused. It could be rounded dogs on the gear set, bent shift fork, worn shift drum or something I didn't think of. You need to tear it down to know for sure.........

Possibly a sticking starter clutch. The starter will really sing if the engine is driving it.

I have a set of JIS screwdrivers from McMaster Carr. They were pricey so I put them separate from the other screwdrivers so I'm not needlessly wearing them. I tend to use my Craftsman impact driver to loosen JIS screws. Turns out the bits are actually JIS, not Phillips. By just grabbing the impact driver I already have it in hand for tough screws. And yes, a JIS bit will work Phillips fasteners just fine.

By 2013 they were listing it as 90185-18009-00. At some point (after 2008) they changed it. Be interesting to see if they went to a metal lock instead of the nylon that wore out....

Actually, he only went back 13.8 billion years. And his comment was along the lines of "available evidence suggests..."

Pretty much my thoughts too. Lots of fancy graphics. All sizzle, no steak. In fairness though, it's an introduction. Hopefully get down to being more educational.

That is backward. A tubeless tire runs cooler and is much less likely to experience sudden deflation. That is why cars and trucks went strictly tubeless decades ago. The only reason to have a tube is if the tire won't seal for some reason. They are used with wire wheels because the air would leak out around the spokes. And yes, a tubeless tire is much easier to patch on the side of the road. Most motorcycle tire manufacturers recommend that you not repair tires. Personally, I'd repair one to get home but would replace it ASAP.

I'm not aware of any way to repair a tube without dismounting the tire.

You sure didn't provide much information....... The stuff in the first picture looks like part of a kit Sierra sells that makes a Cobra handheld into a motorcycle CB. There is what appears to be a 5 pin connector in that picture. The connector in your 2nd picture looks like a headset patch cable. Does the other end plug into that connector in the first picture? How many pins are in it?

I find that often an impact wrench will knock the damping rod bolts free. That makes life a lot easier. Steps I'd take: 1) Front wheel up. 2) Bleed air from front suspension and open air line. 3) Remove calipers, wheel and fender. 4) Open drain screws (catch basin under forks). ** At this point I like to give it some time, preferably over night to drip out. Makes rebuilding a bit less messy. 5) Use impact wrench to loosen damping rod bolts (bolts need to be left partially in, reinstall them a few turns if the impact wrench spins them completely out). 6) Remove fork brace (it was left on to keep the lowers from spinning with the impact wrench in step 5). 7) Remove ONE fork assembly and rebuild it. 8) Reinstall first fork. 9) Remove, rebuild and reinstall second fork. 10) Put everything back together.

In the end tearing them down would be faster than digging the old one out anyhow...... You should also inspect the bushings and replace if they show any wear. New seals on shot bushings will leak almost immediately. Frankly, I'd replace them regardless.

You know, if I had to sit there and watch Daisy eat first I'd probably do the same thing.

Do the buttons seem to work? You should be able to see changes to the display when you switch Front to Rear, Auto/Manual, change pressure setting etc......

People often don't realize that that guy collecting $250 for the install turns around shells a lot of that back out in expenses. They really add up and I didn't fully comprehend it until I was in business for myself. BUT, I wouldn't dream of having something like a water heater installed. It'd take me a whole day to earn enough to pay for it when I could do it myself in a couple hours. I just did one of mine (we have 2). The old one was at the curb almost 10 minutes before a scrap metal scavenger got it.

The CLASS pump will not run until you adjust pressure at the controller. It's not an automatic thing that watches the system - it will only respond to your input. When you turn the key to ACC it'll self test and end up displaying 0. After you select Front or Rear it should show you the current pressure. If you increase from that point the compressor should kick on. If you decrease you might hear the hiss of air escaping the open valve, but it is quiet.

I have a drop tail in the shop and think it is the better design. You can pull the wheel off the drive splines and remove it without repositioning your hands. I used one like the TX1000 in school and you have to get moved around to remove the wheel rearward rather than out the side. Sometimes it's handy to have the table out of the way to work on things like brakes too. I also have a Harbor Freight hydraulic lift. Been in service for six years with no major issues. It really shines when you want to load a motorcycle backward. Pushing a motorcycle backward up a ramp takes a lot of skill and the lower height makes it easier. Also, you cannot put most cruisers or tourers on the other lifts backward because the tall vise hits bags, fenders and pipes. They all clear that low vise on the HF lift. This is the sole reason I hang on to the HF lift. The turned up edges on the HF lift help keep sockets from rolling off too. That bar across the HF trap door is a problem in getting the rear wheel off longer bikes. If I remember correctly, a first gen on the center stand will let the wheel forward just enough to get it out. Pretty much a 2 person job though because you have to pass that heavy wheel through the hole. The drop tail lift is also made in China and mine had a couple quality issues that were simple to rectify.

I carry THIS. The things that look like keys are plastic corkscrews that the tab snaps off after it's threaded into the tire. The cylinders are CO2, but the adapter isn't as nice as the one in Dingy's picture. The full kit is HERE. The reason I have the refill rather than the full kit is I don't need to pay all that extra for a set of pliers I already have in my tool kit. I haven't needed to use it yet but it should do the trick if needed. I think it probably is useless for tube type tires.

Carb Slide VentureRider price 15% off. I'm putting in an order from the supplier tomorrow. Let me know if you want one.....

...and part of the transmission. It'll be a lot of drag, especially if the oil and gear lube are cold.