MiCarl

I have done that with just compressed air. I have maybe a 10% success rate. If compressed air won't do it the carb cleaner won't get to the clog anyway.

Nope. You probably get it with part number 52.

I believe it's actually an E clip. When I needed one I went to an old timey auto parts store. They let me dig around in their box of loose clips until I found one that would work. Of course one that small will be at the very bottom of the box.......

What works well is a 3/16" cabinet tipped screwdriver. I made my own by grinding the sides off the tip of a 3/16" round shaft screwdriver I got at the hardware store.

You'd think with 2 new jobs he wouldn't have time for this foolishness.

It works great if done properly. Unfortunately if some yahoo does a slap dash job it ends up a mess of tatters that is impossible to remove. You do have to be careful of the paint with it. With epoxy I always gave the tank a good coat of wax to help if I got some where I didn't want it. If you're not going to coating it consider always parking it with a full tank. The fuel keeps oxygen away from the tank and not having a big pocket of air on top slows down the ethanol grabbing moisture from the air.

If he's got a liner flaking it's probably Kreem that was put in without prepping the tank properly. I'm not a big fan of Kreem because it can damage paint almost instantly and if the tank prep isn't perfect it starts to lift and makes a mess. I think lining it is a good idea but I'd suggest an epoxy liner. I've always used Caswell but Red Kote is also popular. Pay close attention to the temperature when using epoxy liners. Too cold and it won't flow well, too warm and it sets up too fast.

Those are either pre year 2000 tires or there is another oval after the one you're reading from that has the date code.

Sold the bikes last year. Found that in decent weather we preferred to be on the boat with adult beverages to riding. And my knees were starting to make the 1st gen a bit uncomfortable. We retired in April. Never been so busy in my life. In addition to trying to catch up all the stuff I neglected when I had the shop I've also been volunteering on an educational farm. Current hobby is vintage and antique farm tractors (see farm above). I recently got my 3rd. I still check the forum here almost daily. I chip in where I can but find my knowledge is rapidly becoming obsolete.

That's the vacuum line to the TCI. It lets the TCI sense the engine load and adjust the timing. What joins the two hoses is not a butt connector, it's a restrictor. The purpose is to damp the vacuum pulses so the TCI sees an average rather than the wild swings in every cycle. It keeps the TCI from throwing the timing all over the place. That restrictor has the same effect as the ones used on carb sync gauges. And it's important that it's on the engine end of the hose - the volume in the hose from the restrictor to the TCI is what damps the fluctuations.

IMO 3000RPM is about the minimum RPM you want to run. Anything less and the engine doesn't generate any power. I typically didn't use 5th gear unless cruising at 70 or so.

I know someone who had a similar problem (although he didn't go to his PcP). He looked so bad his daughter demanded he get in the car and she drove him to the emergency room. He's mostly quit smoking and cut way back on the beer. Now he looks 20 years younger. It sounds like it's also time for a new PcP. Good luck!

2008 Ventures: XVZ13TXFR - Base Royal Star Venture XVZ13TFXCR - Base Royal Star Venture with CA emissions XVZ13TFSX - Royal Star Venture S XVZ13TFSXC - Royal Star Venture S with CA emissions

If the bike is in the bed and the gate is down you might have clearance issues to a travel trailer. Especially when turning.

The CB and tape deck are auxiliary connections to the radio/intercom. You can pull the CB or Tape deck without affecting the other components. I yanked the tape deck from my '89 and replaced it with a cord that allowed me to plug in an MP3 player.

It's not clear if your 2.6% is net of what you withdrew in 2014 and 2016. S&P annualized return (not inflation adjusted) with dividends reinvested: June 2004 - June 2014 = 7.728% June 2004 - June 2016 = 7.369% June 2004 - June 2019 = 8.608% August 2004 - August 2019 = 8.747% If you took a loss in 2014 or 2016 on money invested in 2004 it was a very poor investment.

I agree with you 100%. But if you need the money in the near future this may not be the way to go. If the market tanks 50% and you have to spend it all there is nothing left for growth or the future. This is why my money is invested based on when I need it: 10 years +, 5 - 10 years or less than 5 years. This has been a difficult transition for me. Like you I've generally been 100% equities and it's been very profitable for 30 years. Heck, in 2008 I was rummaging around in the couch for extra change to buy more during the big sale. Now though, a 50% haircut would be nearly catastrophic so I'm willing to live with a guaranteed inflation indexed loss on the money market investments. I'm essentially buying insurance. BTW, you can make money in bonds by not holding them to maturity. If interest rates fall the bond price moves up and you can sell it at a profit. Apparently this is why people are willing to buy bonds with a negative yield, if interest rates drop the bond can be sold at a profit. Of course if interest rates rise the value of the bond drops although the down side is limited if you're willing to hold the bond to maturity. Not a game I'm interested in playing.

He's serving you well. IMO, most people don't have a stomach tough enough to watch the daily gyrations of the market and stick to their plan. A good advisor will talk you off the ledge and get you to turn off the news if you cannot handle it. I know people who will never be able to retire because they bailed out in 2008 and then missed the best bull market ever. In response to the original post: I don't think 5% is realistic. You can put together a mix of good dividend stocks that will give you more than 4% without a lot of volatility or risk, but long term they won't return what the broad market will. We're recently retired (I'm 58, she's 59) and our assets fall largely into three pots: Growth. This is money that we won't need for at least ten years, if ever. It's in low cost index funds (S&P 500, Dividend aristocrats, Russell 2000). This group yields a little less than 2%. Dividend. This is the money we'll need in 5-10 years. It's in utilities, energy extraction and distribution, commodities and telecommunications. This package is currently yielding about 4.5% which has come up a bit recently as the share prices have fallen. Cash. This is money we expect to need in the next 5 years. It's in the money market and yields about 2% currently. Right now we (probably) have too much in cash. We recently rolled my wife's 403(b) into an IRA and given the market heights I'm gradually investing that into the growth pot. I'm personally not a fan of CDs. You have to tie your money up long term for less return than a money market fund pays. I understand that CDs are risk free, but the money market is very low risk and the only people who have ever lost money there panicked in 2007-2008 and lost 2% or so. Bottom line is you need a plan that meets your specific needs while allowing you to sleep well at night. If you're not up to that yourself get a fee based advisor who can help you build the plan and then encourages you to stick with it during the rough patches.

The motorcycle will go just fine with only a pull cable. The purpose of the push cable is so you can force the throttle closed with your hand if something hangs up. It's a safety thing. Personally, I'd hook up a push cable if at all possible.

Fuse panel is under the RH side panel. You need to get in there and find out what has power or not and of course if you've got a fuse that's hot on one side but not the other that is your culprit. Remember, you can't necessarily be sure a fuse is good by looking at it. If the main fuse is good and everything else but the headlight is out it's probably the ignition switch or the fuse panel itself (it's a pretty weak panel).

It's always good to check the wheel bearings when you have the wheel off. Otherwise I don't know of anything you should do just because you're pulling the forks. I think Yamaha specifies lithium soap based grease for the bearings. I wouldn't use that, it's a standard general purpose grease and is designed to flow in rotating bearings. It'll pound out of steering bearings in short order. I suggest using a high impact grease. I always used the same molybdenum disulfide grease I used on drive splines.

Anyone who has this going on should repair it. It has the potential to start oscillating into an uncontrollable situation known as "death wobble".

I made a bracket that mounted to the frame right where the horn does. Made it long enough to hang the horn outside the lower fairing leg. When I added combo fog/driving lights I made new brackets that carried those too. You should put a horn on each side. Really gets you noticed.

The neutral indicator shouldn't be affected by the hydraulics or clutch itself. You've got something going on that exhibits itself in both those problems, although I can't hazard a guess what it might be. I'm thinking something with the clutch slave install since the neutral indicator is right there. Besides, it's the hardest area to work with so the problem must be there.

So long as you close off the vacuum to the diaphragm you should be fine. Just popping on coasting.