MiCarl

Another thing you could look for is nicks, scratches and dents in the bed and on the tail gate. These would be signs of a delivery vehicle.

If diaphragms are the problem you might consider trying to get them to repair the slides with diaphragms from Sirius. You'd have to pay them extra labor but in the end it'd cost you less and they'd probably make more profit. Another option is to have them get slides from K&L Supply. Exact same Mikuni part, but about half the price.

I agree to a point. When my stuff won't stay in or the rain won't stay out it's too much rust and time to replace. Of course on a vehicle without a full frame rust can be a structural issue too.

If they're replacing the slides with Yamaha parts that will explain a sizable chunk of the $800. The labor is more than reasonable, assuming they do it right. They should be billing for about 5 hours, so if their labor rate is $58/hour they're spot on.

Not sure where Newton is, but here is how I look at vehicles: I keep them a very long time. I figure mechanical stuff can be fixed, but rust always wins. Here in Michigan rust is a big deal. I'll take miles over age any day. Type of miles matters too - stop and go delivery type miles = lots of wear. Highway miles hardly count at all. Hard to imagine how that 2013 could get 140,000 miles without being on the highway most of them. On the other hand, that Ecoboost is fairly new and we don't know how the turbo will hold up.

I don't have a kit for a 2nd gen. AFAIK you have to buy discrete parts.

Typos will burn you. I just tried to tag skydoc_17 and mistakenly put it in as skydoc17. It came back as skydoc17. Sorry for the messages sky!

You need a new dealer. They're still available from Yamaha: 2.70 26H-12169-10-00, 2.65 26H-12168-Y0-00 They're also available aftermarket for about half the price. The distributor is K&L Supply and their part numbers are: 2.70 13-7624, 2.65 13-7623. If your dealer isn't selling from K&L they are the only retailer in the business that doesn't. Unfortunately, I've got no 2.70s and just one 2.65 on hand. Since K&L has a $50 minimum order and it's winter here I'm not likely to be placing an order soon. @skydoc_17 might have them. Or google the part numbers. Or, you can just take your Dealer parts department the numbers I provided and have them get them for you.

Those stator screws have red loc-tite on them. You should use it when you put it together too.

My MKII service manual and the one posted here says BDS-34, but my MKII owners manual shows BDS-35. I tend to believe my owners manual. Too many parts different to be the same body as the MKI. Next time I have them off I'm going to measure them.......

I thought so too, but looked it up. According to the service manuals they're both BDS34. mralex714 - the float bowls are overfilling. Looking through the air box at them won't solve it. If it were me I would not assume it's the o-rings on the needle seats. I'd pull them off, pull the bowls, invert the racks, spray the needle/seat area with soapy water and blow in the fuel inlet. See where they are leaking. Then fix whatever the problem is.

The 83-85 carburetors should have an ID mark on the body of 41R00. MKII Carburetors will be marked 1NL00 or 1UN00(California emissions).

Yep. Crud builds up on the side of the buttons and they stick in the pressed position. I had a similar problem with my DX/LOC switch.

If you don't take care of that at home someday you'll be taking care of it 100 miles from home. Most likely in the rain.

I had something similar in September. After multiple EKGs, blood work, chest x-ray and a stress test the conclusion was a muscle spasm. Hope yours turns out similar. (Gee, they managed to lose me twice, do a stress test and still have me on the street in only 17 hours. What kind of outfit do you have there?)

The air isn't really to change the ride height, it changes the spring rate. Once you have enough spring and air to fully extend the shock it won't rise not matter how much air you put in. Mine does not have stock springs in the front. Whatever is in there (definitely not Progressive) is stiff enough that the forks are fully extended with no air pressure. I've never pressurized them at all. I suspect the rear has a progressive spring, mine seems to sit higher than a stock bike and there is a progressive sticker on the trailer hitch. Air will raise it a bit (maybe 1/4") up to about 40PSI, then it's maxed out. I can tell you that 2 up, heavy (over the bike capacity) I run it at about 55psi. For just me (240lbs) I run at about 40. Unless you're really large you probably won't notice sag from your weight. I doubt if mine settles an inch when I've got it set the way I like it. BTW, it should not bounce, the damping is to prevent that. The damping adjustment knob is above your left heel. 1 is least damping, 4 is most. You want to turn it up to where it's not bouncy.

You mean the red one? There should be an icon in the CMS (The 8 box display below the light) to indicate the reason. The top left icon is the side stand indicator. The side stand icon and light come on if the stand is down.

I have to concur. The pump shouldn't run unless you push buttons on the control - there is no external input to start it. The controller doesn't have any sort of memory. When it powers up it "assumes" the pressures are correct unless you do something to change them. The pump is vented when the controller isn't trying to inflate a shock. This is why you hear the air escaping. If the controller were trying to pressurize the system it would close the vent - the 2nd hint that you've shorted something.

Your problem now sounds like fuel. Are you sure that pump is working? Open a carb drain and see.

Great idea! I wonder why Yamaha didn't think of that. As far as the MKI having one anti-dive on the front brake and the other on the rear, I'm not sure that's an issue. There are a lot of Hondas out there with anti-dive on one side only. Of course I'm not sure ant-dives really do anything. I don't think they've put them on a motorcycle manufactured in the last 15 years. I was sorely tempted to just disconnect mine when I was in there last week.

We need to wast those people's time until it's not worth it to them to call anymore. A couple weeks ago I got a call from "Account Services" - those folks that claim they can reduce credit card interest rates. I had some time to kill so I put it on speaker phone and pressed "1". The operator came on and wanted to know if I had more than $3,000 in credit card debt. I answered: "Oh yeah, it's North of $15,000". She asked what my interest rate was and I answered "About 3%". She says "what do you expect me to do with 3%?" My answer: "Your recording said you could reduce my interest rate". She hung up on me.....

Changing the steels shouldn't affect free travel. By its nature a hydraulic clutch is self adjusting - which is why he can't easily change the lever position relative to the friction zone.

Du-Rron: What you described is the way to correct the behavior capdrac is trying to create. A well functioning clutch will disengage in the first inch of lever travel. Captdrac: I can think of some ways to move the friction zone closer to the bar and even widen it. Problem is, most of them could cause issues in normal riding. Couple thoughts for you though: 1) The skydoc kit will narrow the friction zone a bit. If you've done that you might consider putting the narrow friction disk back in. 2) You should be able to move the friction zone closer to the bar by reshaping the lever a bit (I'd get a spare lever for this).

I'll 2nd Ace. Differential oil gets in there through holes in the back of the coupler (#10). It doesn't take much and enough gets in there to keep it from wearing. It only needs grease if it's been disassembled, to protect it until some gear oil works in there.

Not that it will help you clean up your current mess, here are the things I do to prevent problems from occurring (listed in what I think is order most to least importance): 1) Most of the time I use an account that doesn't have administrative access. That way malicious software cannot install itself without you providing an administrator password. If you can use your windows computer without a user name and password you likely only have an administrative account and you're at risk of accidentally installing something you don't want. 2) I'm very cautious about email attachments. I make sure they are something I expect, from someone I know and the file type matches what it purports to be. 3) AVG free is installed. 4) I've installed an ad blocking hosts file (google it). Not only does this cut down on pop-ups and some malicious sites it can speed up web browsing. I've found that when pages load slow it's often because they contain ads served from slow hosts. 5) I have my browser set to block pop-ups