MiCarl

RadioShack hadn't had anything like that for years. Try maybe an electronics specialty place. I gotta believe the bone yards are full of the whole assembly. You might contact Pinwall Cycle. In the meantime, the connection between the headset and RC jacks is for the attenuator (volume control). What that knob does is reduce the volume from what the amp puts out. If you plug the headset in directly it will work as if the passenger volume control is set to max.

SilvrT reminded me: They need to be under the bike where the gremlins are. Up high won't work. I have proof of this. We bought my wife a V-STAR 650 that had been crashed and the rider severely injured. The guardian bell was attached to the key. Not only is that too high, but gremlins were probably climbing on while it was parked.

If they're not actually stuck and there is any of the slot left a proper fitting tool will probably get them. I have been known to use a Dremmel to cut a new slot, which is not fun. Another thing you can try is a very sharp left hand drill bit, at slow speed with lots of pressure so it cuts a big chip - you want it to grab rather than drill. DO NOT TRY TO BREAK IT LOOSE WITH A STANDARD BIT, IF YOU SPIN IT DOWN AND JAM THE NEEDLE YOU'RE DONE! A smaller pilot hole will help it grab. A good healthy soak of penetrating oil before you start won't hurt any either. I have not heard of anyone having success with screw extractors. Some heat can help stuck screws. You need to completely disassemble the carb to keep from damaging other parts. That includes removing the butterfly shaft and the seals on it, which are not meant to be disassembled. I have heated without pulling the butterfly shaft but you need to get a lot of heat on the screw hole fast, break it free, then quench the thing before the shaft seals melt.

..AND "psi" is permanently printed on the face. On mine it's hard to see the "si" because it's over in the shadow from the bezel.

They work best if they are a gift. I bought mine at a dealer that was closing. The disgruntled employees only rang up half my items, and the bell was not one that I paid for. So I count it as a gift:happy34:.

The nice thing about that tool is so long as you don't turn it with a wrench you probably can't get enough torque to damage the screw. To avoid temptation you might grind the head round.

It's the fork bushings Venturous Randy is talking about. They really should be replaced every time the fork is disassembled because disassembly is hard on them. Yamaha calls the upper one "METAL, SLIDE" and the lower "PISTON". I do not like All Balls seals, I find them excessively difficult to drive into place. I had one All Balls set where the dust seals would climb back off the fork and we eventually gave up and went with an OEM dust seal. I finally decided the All Balls seals are more trouble than they are worth and I will no longer install them for my customers. I typically use OEM or K&L Supply seals and require new bushings. The only one that ever leaked was on a badly pitted inner tube - which was not a surprise.

Penetrating oil will not hurt. Make sure your screwdriver is a very good fit! Every screwdriver I've seen with a blade the proper thickness is way too wide for the hole. I've got a couple that I've re-ground just for working on sticky pilot screws and jets.

I will grant you that a lot of people selling on Craigs List seem to think their item is made of pure platinum. When I'm shopping I won't even contact someone who has an unrealistic price. Now, if someone says "I'm three hours away and I've got XXX to spend. If I come and it matches your description I'll take it for XXX. Would that be acceptable?" that is a way different scenario.

Don, there is an outfit that does the same thing with RVs. When I first listed the trailer last fall my phone rang off the hook with their robo-calls. They're the primary reason I don't have a phone number listed. I see that all the emails (both directions) are going through a Craigslist anonymous relay now so I don't think anyone is seeing my real email address. Except for the fact I have contact information in my signature, which I didn't think about until last night:doh:.

If your experience is like mine, today you will get an email wanting to know if you'd be interested in trading for a three legged dog.

If you can drill thin aluminum without slamming the chuck into the work this should be no problem for you.

Well, I look at it this way. I've said I'll definitely part with it for $7800, and it's not an unreasonable price. On the other hand I need the thing gone and if someone is standing in front of me waving cash I'd probably give a little. But to ask me to give (some unspecified amount) with no commitment from the buyer is just yanking my chain. I generally try to get something off when I'm buying. When we bought the trailer new from a dealer I eventually got it for about 30% off their starting number, but the process was brutal. I won't fight that hard with a private seller, if they're that much over where they should be I just walk away. Likewise, if someone opens with me at 30% off I'm not likely to take him seriously. Sometimes if I find just what I'm looking for and the price is reasonable I just snatch it up rather than fighting over every nickel. My suggestion to you would be it never hurts to ask. To make it work you need to be in the sellers face ready to close the deal and your offer needs to not be insanely far from reasonable.

No 'puc, I did not have you in mind when I modified the link.

You also want the heavy duty clutch spring. Skydoc_17 offers that too.

It occurred to me that some jokers on here might think it funny to click the ad and send me emails asking what my lowest price is. I edited the link so it goes to an invalid page.

I've got a couple items for sale on Craigslist. On each of them I have very complete descriptions including the condition and photographs. I also list my asking price. I don't include a phone number and explain it's because when I do that I get swamped with telemarketers and 3AM texts that wake me up. So all of my initial contacts are by email. Following is an exact email I received about a travel trailer I have for sale, and it's type is quite common: ******************************** What's your bottom dollar for the trailer? 2005 Gulfstream Innsbruck 275FBS via cPro Craigslist App iOS: Warning! | There might be a problem with the requested link Android: Warning! | There might be a problem with the requested link Sent from my iPhone ************************************ Now since the guy has never seen the trailer it could be the deal of the century or overpriced junk - he has no way of knowing other than to trust my description. When I get one of these emails I conclude it must be one of two things: 1) Somebody with spare time and an iPhone fires off this message to every ad he sees hoping somebody will start discounting and he'll somehow get a deal. (They all seem to come from iPhones.) 2) The guy can't come near my asking price and he doesn't want to waste his time unless I cave on the price before I even show it. (Maybe he already gave all his money to Apple for the iPhone?) Neither one is someone I take seriously. In this case I replied with my asking price, but the next one I think I'll say "make me an offer". Am I wrong? Do people really buy and sell stuff this way? Here is how I see it. I've got a travel trailer I don't want, I've publicly announced that if someone puts 78 Benjamins in my hand he can take it home. Is it too much for me to expect someone to say "I want this trailer, but I think your price is too high. I've got XX Benjamins I'll give you for it.", and show them to me? Am I all wet, or is the rest of the world nuts?

I like to use a sharp bit in a variable speed drill, at low speed (not much faster than you can turn a screwdriver by hand), just enough pressure so the bit is cutting continuous strips of material. As the bit punches through the back of the cap it grabs and the drill will stall. Then I back the drill out. Once the bit starts cutting you'll need very little pressure to cut like I described.

You could also consider soldering on an extension of decent gauge wire so it's easier to work with.

Half the bikes with cartridge filters are missing that washer. It's one of the few parts I actually stock here at the shop - I go through a ton of them. You might find your local dealer/independent shop keeps them on hand too.

You don't want the pin depressed when you measure. On some carbs (not sure about 2nd gen Venture) the spring is stout enough it won't compress even inverted. To be sure, measure them using the method V7Goose demostrated.

The only difference to a non-air fork is you need to make sure you bleed the air off before you start taking things apart. You pour oil in from the top and set the level with the fork compressed before installing the spring. You should replace bushings any time you disassemble. Might want to have new o-rings on hand too. Two things to watch for: 1) there is a foam ring between the air joint and top bridge. If you don't hang on to them while you pull the fork through they end up behind the radiator. 2) there is a circlip around the inner tube to hold the air joint up, you need to take it off to pull the tube through the lower tree.

My money is on the battery being toast too. There is a little bit of draw from the electronics and it will discharge the battery. A battery will be ruined by even a short period discharged. I would not start the bikes. Treat fuel, park them, pull batteries and take home to put on a tender until riding weather returns. Or at least disconnect the battery so the clock doesn't kill it.

The one at top looks like the clips that anchor the molding to the false tank cover.

KIC, It's not a matter of HULU or ROKU, they are different things. To over simplify: Roku is a device that attaches your TV to the internet. HULU is an internet TV service. You can use a ROKU to watch HULU programming on your TV. There are a number of internet TV services. The biggies are Netflix, Hulu, Amazon, Vudu etc. There are also several ways to connect the television to the internet. In addition to the ROKU you can use a game system, some DVD players do it and Smart TVs have it built in. You won't save the whole $120. You'll need to pay one or more of the services for their programming. We have Netflix, which is about $10/month.