MiCarl

You're absolutely right. Probably the worst think that an investor can do now is bail out. Scrounge around in the couch for extra change to invest and get ready for the ride up. The good news is retail investors seem to be staying the course. It's the professionals that are panicking.

Ah yes. It always pays to check the nut that connects the handle bars to the seat.

Your title says "during acceleration", is that correct? On acceleration it could be a carburetor issue or a spark plug. Try spark plugs first. Deceleration is likely to be an air leak or bad air cut off valves.

Temperature gauges are coolant temperature. No coolant = no gauge.

SWMBO found some TP today. Crisis averted!

My understanding is it is more contagious and has a higher mortality rate than the typical flu. So I guess it should be a bit more concerning, particularly to people who are older or in poor health. I think a big part of it is there is nothing else for the press to really chew on and it is the political season. Remember, The President pointed out that there wasn't any reason to panic and compared it to the bad strains of flu that come around occasionally. He was roundly criticized for not doing enough. Then they closed Italy, so the Italians are doing something. If a leader doesn't close schools, stop public events and restrict travel guess who's going to take the heat for not doing enough if someone gets sick? Safer to follow the herd and put the clamps on. Now, it would be courteous for someone who is sick to stay home for awhile to avoid spreading it in the community. That's why the health agencies have recommended keeping some supplies on hand. Unfortunately it appears that some are preparing to lock themselves in their hide outs for an extended period. Last night someone I know posted pictures of empty shelves in their local Wal-Mart. It wasn't just TP. Meat, eggs, packaged foods (I couldn't read the tags to know just what) and milk were cleaned out. Seriously, how long can someone hoard milk? I am concerned about TP scarcity. This happened right as we needed to buy more and we're having trouble finding any. Since there hasn't been a Sears catalog in decades this has the potential to be a problem in our household. Fortunately I do have access to a good supply of corn cobs.

My understanding is that since the handling characteristics are different mixing should be avoided unless the OEM designed the suspension geometry to work with it. In any case, the tire manufacturers say not to mix them unless the OEM specifies it.

It's probably best to stick with bias ply. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES RUN A MIXED BIAS-RADIAL SET.

Does the speedometer seem correct? How about the trip odometer. Both of the odometers are gear driven by the speedometer and there isn't really any way for the odometers to run faster than the speedometer. Only thing I can think is perhaps some of the wheels are stuck together. If you decide to go in be careful. It's a delicate instrument.

I wouldn't. Your rim will be wider than the tire wants which will flatten the tire profile. It also might make it harder to seat the bead. If you do decide to do it check the date code. You don't want one that's been sitting around for a long time.

Mama, you haven't posted much for awhile and now back with a vengeance. Must be cabin fever! I hope you get riding weather soon.

Probably not the alternator. Alternator is on the left side and is carried by the crankshaft and doesn't have its own bearings to whine. Check all the fasteners on the front of the engine, particularly those to the exhaust manifold. It could also be a stuck starter clutch. The starter will scream like mad if it spins at engine speed. I don't really know how to describe it, just know it when I hear it.

It sounds like your temperature is pretty much normal. The fan doesn't kick on until the temp is at the red. It sounds like the coolant may have come from the overflow, although I think the hose should go low enough it doesn't get on you. Any chance it was over filled? What's the level in the recovery bottle cold?

I never understood the practice of pointing the angled stems left. They're much easier to get at on the side stand when pointed right. Whenever I was installing angled stems in my shop I pointed them to the right. I expect your '18 has radial tires. Those tend to get higher pressures than bias ply tires.

It's not surprising. LEDs respond instantly to voltage changes. When the fuel pump cycles it'll pull the voltage down a bit. Once the engine is turning some revolutions the alternator and voltage regulator should even things out. I had a LED license plate frame on my 1st gen and it would flicker at idle as the charging voltage fluctuated. Once it was off idle and voltage smoothed out it would be steady. The reason you don't see it with incandescent lights is the light is produced by a piece of hot wire. The wire won't heat up and cool off fast enough to make a noticeable change in light output. You can see this if you watch vehicle turn signals, the ones with LEDs are instant on instant off where incandescent lights you can see get brighter over a fraction of a second and dim to dark when they click off.

Sorry to disappoint, but I retired in April. I've been sending my former customers to Nick's Pro Powersports in Belleville, which is a long way from West Branch.

Ending support just means they won't be issuing updates. It should continue to work just fine for a long time. I use my computer to run some old windows programs, Thunderbird and Firefox. At Windows 7 I had to install XP compatibility mode to continue with one of my old program. I'll keep running 7 until I cannot get Firefox or Thunderbird for it. When I absolutely have to give up Windows 7 I'll go to LINUX and install the WINE libraries so my Windows programs will run. I've already done that with two laptops and my business desktop. The machines performed much better with LINUX than they did with Windows XP of VISTA.

This was new to me. Did a bit of research: In S mode you can only install applications from the Microsoft store. It's done to protect you from installing malware. Android and IOS phones do the same thing so you can only install apps that pass certain quality control and security checks. In other words, they're trying to make it idiot proof. If you turn off S mode you don't lose access to the Microsoft store but gain access to everything else. The only thing you lose is the protection of being locked into the Microsoft store. They don't let you turn S mode back on. There might be a technical reason they prohibit that or it could be to prevent users from switching back after getting a malware infection and then blaming Microsoft.

It might depend on what you plan to hunt......

EBC part number MD2049. It's not in the UK catalog. I guess you folks aren't supposed to have the motorcycle. They're made in the UK though so I think you should be able to chase one up.

Don, 30 years ago I took a bunch of colleagues deer hunting. One of them brought a WWII Japanese rifle that had been in the family. He wasn't a hunter and was the first time he'd used the rifle. As I recall it was some odd .30 caliber that was difficult to chase up cartridges for. What I remember about that gun was the weird knob safety on the back of the bolt that would not allow cycling the bolt (to load/unload or chamber a round) when safed. I see a similar knob in your picture. A little googling indicates it's probably a Nagoya Type 99 Infantry Rifle chambered in 7.7X58mm. Looks like they can be found for $250 and up. If you pony up for 100 rounds they're $1.40 each.

Several things: The audio system will draw a small amount of power with the key off, maybe enough to see a small spark when you connect the battery. The most likely reason for it to crank with the key off is a stuck starter solenoid. Disconnecting everything and adding back one at a time is about the best method to track down problems of the sort you're experiencing. I would start by fully charging the battery (trying to use a boost box with the tight space available will just slow you down). I would disconnect any aftermarket accessory connected to the battery and pull all the fuses. Unplug the starter relay from the wiring harness. If you don't know where/what the starter relay is you can follow the heavier battery (+) lead to it. It's got a pig tail with 2 wires that connect to the wiring harness. Connect your charged battery. If you get a shower of sparks and the engine cranks you know the starter relay is bad. If you don't get sparks or cranking check the battery with a multi-meter to make sure the battery isn't dead. If you've got 12V or more and it's not cranking you can move on. Plug the starter relay into the harness. If it starts cranking you've got a major wiring issue. You'll have to start pulling things apart looking for burned or melted wiring. Install the main fuse if you pulled it (odds are you didn't, it's not in that box on top of the air cleaner). Install the ignition fuse.If it cranks without pushing the start button you need to investigate the start button and its wires for a short. Now try the start button. I think it should crank (I don't have my books and diagrams anymore to confirm, but I'm fairly confident). If it cranks you're in good shape so far. If it's not cranking check the ignition and main fuse. Also throw your meter on the battery and make sure its showing more than 10 volts while attempting to crank. If it spent time deeply discharged it may be shot. If everything so far is working start adding fuses back one at a time (save the signals for last). Each time you add a fuse make sure it still cranks and that whatever the fuse supplies works. Also check that everything previously connected works properly. When you get to a fuse that blows or causes other problems you have an idea which system you need to investigate.

To an extent they will. BUT there is a big flaw in the assumption behind your initial question which is that they all start out with a similar set of shims, and they don't. And if a valve job is done they'll reset all over the place. Finally, there are other engines that use the 25mm shim so a big place is likely to mix them up more than if they were just dealing with the Yamaha V4. Go have another cup of coffee Carl. You know that the wear is at the valve seat which reduces clearance at the cam.

You've had lots of good advice. Just about anything with the steering, front and rear suspension or tires can cause it. I had one Royal Stare where the rider complained of wobble at freeway speed. Neither her husband or I had a problem with it. After going over everything else I disassembled the steering and greased it with high impact grease rather than the lithium soap grease Yamaha specifies. Her problem went away. The first and easiest thing though is try it without the windshield. I've seen windshields cause a wobble problem.

Yep. Time do do the job right.