MiCarl

The 2nd gen has a smaller diameter rear wheel which has the effect of making the rear ratio taller. You need to figure that into your reasoning. Of course the taller ratio in the V-max final will compensate for that.

That is the assembly you posted. It's not where the shifting problem is. I suspect that service bulletin is noting to check those items when servicing the transmission. I've never done this job, but I suspect the problem is with #15 and #16 in this pic:

That is not the washer. The washer you're looking for is inside the transmission. Your picture is of the middle gearset input shaft.

Since your bike has 4 pick up coils it's unlikely they'd all fail at the same time with very similar readings. Same for ignition coils. I'd start by making sure I had power to the ignition module and the coils. Then I'd double check the map and settings for the module. If I remember correctly you can have the Ignitech module fire individual plugs through the computer interface - that should let you check the coils. For that matter, I think the ignitech unit should report the rpm from cranking the engine. Those tests might give you some hint.

It does go like the bottom one and you need to S-T-R-E-T-C-H it over. Get it started at one spot and work your way around. I lube it with some brake fluid and use a hook or probe to lift it - be careful you don't stab it with the sharp end. You might practice on the old one.......

Also, the Skydoc kit primarily deals with a weak spring. If your friction discs are shot the new spring won't help much. Did you measure the friction discs?

The first gen fiche is not showing those pins. It's possible it's deficient. Wouldn't hurt to have them.

As promised, I'm going to try and walk you through it. Use the pictures in the service manual and their torque specs for reassembly. We just did an ATV this week so I think I'm current, but pay attention as you go and ask questions if something doesn't seem right. 1) You can drain the oil, but if you work on the side stand you'll lose very little oil. Put something under the right side crank case cover to catch any oil that drips. 2) Remove the RH body panel (the one with the rubber attachment strap at the bottom) and the cover over the oil fill (2 screws). 3) Remove the RH crankcase cover, lay your bolts out some way you can keep track of where they go on reinstall. The cover likely won't pull off, if it's been together awhile the gasket will stick it together. DO NOT PRY! Tap around the cover (at the seam with the crankcase) with a soft face mallet. When the cover starts to separate the sound will become dull. Do it several places and you should be able to pull it off. 4) The shift sector is behind the clutch - near the bottom rear. You should be able to see it. You can have your helper work the shift lever so you can see the mechanism that rotates the sector. Your missing pin will be from the area where the hooks in the mechanism are passing through the shift sector. You should see the pin sticking out or the bent tab where it escaped. Or it's possible the shift sector is broken (like the ATV we just did) and you'll see a chunk missing. If you see pieces laying around below the clutch fish them out. IF YOU DON'T SEE THE PROBLEM STOP HERE AND TAKE PICTURES OF THE SECTOR. POST HERE FOR OPINIONS ON WHETHER YOU'RE ON THE RIGHT TRACK. 5) Put the transmission in 5th gear. 6) Have your assistant hold the brake pedal down while you break loose the six screws holding the clutch springs. 7) Your assistant can release the brake. Back each of the six screws out a turn or so. Repeat until the spring pressure is removed. You need to work them all out together like that so you don't break anything from uneven force on the pressure plate. Once they're all loose you can remove the screws and springs. 8) I think there is specific alignment between the pressure plate and clutch basket. Check the clutch assembly section of the service manual and find the. This will help you understand how it needs to be assembled. 9) Remove the pressure plate but leave all the clutch plates in the basket. UNLESS you want to measure them all and fully service the clutch while in there (consult the service manual). For the shift sector job I believe they can stay put and you won't have to sort them out on reassembly. 10) In the center of the clutch is a bearing assembly. Carefully lift it out, noting how it goes back on reassembly. 11) In the center of the clutch is a nut. It has a special lock washer with tabs that prevent the nut from turning. You need to bend the tabs back to turn the nut. You will need a new washer on reassembly (90215-25218-00). 12) Have your assistant really bear down on the rear brake, this will hold the transmission from turning while you break that center nut loose. CAUTION, if there isn't enough braking force the motorcycle may move. Make sure you don't pull it off the side stand. Remove the nut and discard the lock washer. 13) Now grab behind the clutch basket (Yamaha calls it Primary Driven Gear) with your fingers and use your thumbs to hold the clutch plates in. You can pull off the clutch basket, clutch boss and clutch plates as an assembly. At this point the shift sector and internal shift mechanism should be clearly visible. Have your assistant move the shift lever so you can see how things work. Take a good look (or even a picture) so you can get all those various arms back into place later. 14) Now it's best to get the transmission into neutral. The transmission doesn't like to shift while it's not turning. Rotate the transmission input shaft (at the center of the clutch) back and forth while you turn the shift sector toward neutral. You can tell which direction that is by having your assistant try to downshift - rotate the sector the same direction the mechanism is trying to turn it. After you get it to 3rd gear your assistant will probably be able to down shift it to neutral for you. 15) Now you need to get that torx bolt out of the center of the shift sector but you don't want to apply a lot of force to the shift drum or forks. On the one we just did we were able to get a small pry bar into the protrusions on the end of the sector to hold it but you have the old style sector and might not be able to do that. Try to find some way to anchor it. 16) Part of the shift mechanism is probably in the way of getting onto that torx screw. If your assistant holds the shift lever up or down it'll move things to where you can get in there. 17) Remove the torx screw. As pointed out earlier it has red loc-tite on it and heat might be necessary. Make sure not to overheat any of the springs that reside in the area. Also, don't strip that screw or you open a whole new can of worms. If you used heat to get the screw out stop here for a half hour and let things cool down. 18) Various spring loaded parts of the shift mechanism will be in the way of getting the shift sector and its components out. Your assistant can help hold things back with a long screw driver while you get it out. You need to recover all pieces of the shift sector. If you don't have them fish around in the crankcase with a magnet to try and recover them. If that doesn't work they might be stuck to the magnet on the oil drain plug. Now you need replacement parts. The parts in the fiche are 26H-18561-01-00(PLATE, SIDE 1), 4NK-18185-00-00(SEGMENT) and 4NK-18141-00-00(PLATE, STOPPER) plus the 6 pins. Order all three (the PLATE, STOPPER you have may not work with the new model segment) plus any pins that are lost or damaged. The SEGMENT is a new part number and I believe it eliminates PLATE, SIDE 1. PLATE, SIDE 1 is inexpensive so you might as well get it in case I'm wrong. Also replace the torx screw if you damaged it and include a new gasket in your order. Assembly is pretty much the reverse of disassembly. One pin in the sector is longer than the other 5, it locates the sector on the shift drum and needs to be in the proper hole. The service manual will help you sort this out. There also might be one hole in the sector that doesn't get a pin - again, the service manual is your friend. Getting the new sector in around the shift mechanism requires some gyrations and help getting those various spring arms out of the way. Take your time and make sure you get it right. Remember the red loc-tite on the torx screw. Good luck - it's not as bad as the detailed description makes it seem.

It is one of the synchronization screws, it does not have a "specific" setting. It needs to be adjusted with a set of vacuum gauges attached to the intakes.

If you can shift between 4 and 5, but downshifting from 4 the lever moves fully down but the transmission doesn't shift it will be the shift sector. Every other part involved also is used in shifting between 4 and 5.

And then they superseded the shift sector with one that does not use that sheet metal plate to hold the pins in. Cowpuc is correct, there is a greater than 90% probability you either broke the sector or had the metal tabs open up and let a pin fall out. It's a moderate skill level job that can be done in your driveway without draining the oil, but you do have to remove the clutch. An extra pair of hands helps - the mechanism has several spring loaded parts that need to be held out of the way to get the shift sector in and out. The parts are still available. We do one or two every year in my shop. If you can find a shop do do it it should be about a $300 repair. If you do it yourself or have it done get the new shift sector that captures the pins without the sheet metal guard. It'll save you doing it again.

Need someone to take pictures while they do it....

I have the kit you have (in a 1st gen). It seems the friction zone is narrower than on the stock clutch. You might just have to get used to it, you shouldn't have to move the lever in and out. Maybe if you head over to Mansfield @dingy will run it around the block and let you know what he thinks......

Try pushing forward on the clutch lever when you set it. If it works then your problem is a worn pivot bushing in the clutch lever. Of course it won't engage below 35 or above something like 80.

It's going to depend on how you plan to use the batteries. A starting battery has lots of plates. All those plates let you get lots of amps but their close packing makes them susceptible to damage from a deep discharge (crystals build up on the plates and when they span the gap they damage the battery). A deep cycle battery has fewer plates, spaced farther apart. That lessens the likelihood of damage if deeply discharged. If your primary use is a day on Lake Erie and having a 2nd battery so you don't get stranded then I'd go with more a starting battery or even another dual purpose. If you're going to be overnighting where you'll be running lights and things overnight without the engine running then a deep cycle is the way to go. Deep cycle is also the way to go for an electric trolling motor.

You can also get crush washers at any auto parts store. I believe the oil drain torque is 31 ft-lb and the filter housing is 11 ft-lb.

If it's cranking with the key off it won't be the switch. Stuck solenoid is the likely culprit.

Yes, numbers were 2nd gen. Agree, tank time is long. One of the challenges is changing what they give me to a realistic number. Typically it lists clutches at about 1/2 hour. While you can do most clutches in a half hour it'll take another half hour to scrape off an old gasket.

I just checked my reference here at the shop, which shows OEM warranty times. According to the reference Yamaha will pay 2.7 hours to check and adjust the valve lash. The trick is "guessing" which other operations are included in that number. The reference says 2 hours to R/I the tank so it seams reasonable that part is not included in the 2.7 number. I would bill a customer 5 hours to check them, a bit extra if I had to change a bunch of them out. The reference lists cooling system capacity at 3.7 quarts.

The gaskets don't absolutely need to be replaced. They're more of a rubber seal that are designed to be re-used. But yours are 12 years old so their days are numbered. If I'd done the job I'd have recommended they be replaced and made it clear to the customer that I wouldn't warrant against leaks without them.

2.38 hours isn't enough to do the job.

One thing I like to do is have google do it for me. In the google search box type: site:venturerider.org "YOUR SEARCH TERM" No quotes. Just indicating where you put your search terms.

Here is the thing: The valves (particularly the exhaust valve) get very hot. They need to seat firmly against the head when closed to transfer that heat to the head and on to the cooling system. Over time the interface between the valve and the head wears, making the clearance less. When the clearance (hot, not at the temperature when you check them) goes away the valve does not close against the head and overheats. The valve will melt and be ruined. Hopefully it doesn't also ruin the head and you'll only need a valve job. On a brand new engine the wear between valve and head is fastest, until they wear to where they fit each other very well. On many engines the initial clearance check is at relatively low mileage to account for this, and the later service intervals are farther apart. How fast they tighten up on a new engine depends on how well the valves were fit at the factory. Typically the Japanese manufacturers do a very good job with this and you find they just don't move much. BUT - once in awhile one doesn't fit particularly well and it'll tighten up fast. If that happens on your engine and you don't check it you'll be the guy pulling the head for a major repair. I explain this to my customers all the time: Odds are they are wasting their money, but if they're the unlucky 1 in 100 and don't check it they're going to get burned. It's like insurance. You don't buy insurance because you know your house is going to burn down, you buy it in case your number comes up. Besides, the gaskets and o-rings are getting old and brittle anyhow. Soon they'll leak and you'll be pulling it apart to fix the oil leak. You're most of the way there, just do it.

I think he'd be right 9 out of 10. But if you're number 10 and don't check them you're going to be in a world of hurt. The time from running poorly due to a tight valve and major damage due to a tight valve can be brief. You've already done most of the work, check them. I'd throw in new gaskets and the rubber grommets on the hold down bolts to prevent the leak that is about to start.

As Du-Rron pointed out that is not a 1st gen radiator cap. The 12462 part of the part number is what identifies it as a radiator cap, the 3XP part indicates which model it was first used on. The difference might be as little as different paint or different supplier. Or it could be a different pressure or an entirely different size than you need. By the way, neither XVZ13 or XVZ13D is a complete model number. The "XVZ" indicates some sort of family relationship (which seems to be engine architecture - although the V-Max has its own designation), the 13 tells us the displacement and the "D" indicates a Royale (at least if it's a first gen). The complete model number of my '89 Royale is XVZ13DW - where the W indicates it's an '89. An XVZ13DWC is the same motorcycle with California emissions on it.