MiCarl

Yep, it's a common misconception that dialectic grease is conductive. I suppose this is assumed because it is commonly used on high voltage ignition parts. When you use it on a spark plug boot it lubricates so the boot doesn't stick to the plug and helps insulate it from leaking the electricity (spark). At the voltages spark plugs use any thin layer that gets on the plug terminal is of no consequence. At low voltages though even a thin layer acts as an insulator.

I think you'll find that the cost of purchasing and operating an RV will cover a lot of hotel rooms.

The very first thing I'd do on the suspension is re-solder the connector on the CLASS control board. The CLASS control is mounted in a flip up panel, when you flip it up you can see the connectors (one plug in for the control and two wires with bullet connectors for the back light). The controller is attached with four nuts. After removing open it up (off hand I don't recall how, but must be obvious because I've done it). Re-solder all the connections from the white multi-pin connector to the circuit board. Those crack and can cause all kinds of codes and strange behavior.

Seat removal - There is a bolt on each side, about 2/3 of the way back (recessed behind a hole in the under seat trim). I'm not sure on yours if you need to pull the bags off to get to them or not. On my 89 (which has different luggage) I need to remove the lids from the bags to access the bolts.

I haven't tried this but have heard of straightening a fishing hook and pushing in along the key. The barb tends to grab into the key and pull it out. I suppose the risk is you end up with a fish hook in there with your key......

The fuel tap is near the passenger right foot rest. You should be able to drain it there. When the pump shuts off the valve unloads it so it isn't under pressure, this releases a little spurt of air. If it's lasting more than a second or so you have a valve that is staying open. I'm guessing you don't have a leak since you don't indicate you hear air escaping while it's pumping. It could be a bad valve or the controller malfunctioning. The starter was barely adequate when hot. Make sure all your connections are clean and tight. I eventually put a 4 brush starter on my 89 to end that problem (search the site and you'll find information on starters). Welcome, and good luck!

So my usual parts source doesn't show the o-ring on the 1984. They show later models using the same Petcock and do show an o-ring. So I think it's pretty likely you use the same o-ring. 4X8-24512-00-00 - get it from your dealer.

Some clatter from the transmission when idling in gear with the wheel off the ground is normal. The engine doesn't run perfectly smoothly and the gear dogs have some play in them that will rattle. I'd start off by having a look at the universal joint under the rubber boot between the swing arm and engine case. I've never been in there so I'll leave it to others to guide you on checking it.

For anyone who comes upon this in the future: You should not soak carburetors unless ALL the rubber bits are removed. This includes the seals on the butterfly shafts, which are not designed to be serviceable. Those seals are the reason we never soak carburetor bodies, instead cleaning with spray cleaner and compressed air.

I was just down there a couple weeks ago picking up a tractor. Too bad I didn't know......

The item I received yesterday I hoped would have a large enough box was shipped to me with a label on the item and no box. Which brings up this question: Can I just walk this thing into a FedEx store and have them label it, or do I need to find a box?

It's been awhile since I cut it up, but I believe the one in the "template" was fine. He can try and fit one in and see......

I've got one that is so yellow you cannot see through it. It does have a hole cut into the lower center because I used it for practice before cutting up my good windshield to install a GoldWing vent. Let me know if this will do the trick.

I run a forum for our STAR Touring Chapter. I turned on tapatalk at the request of some members. We've found that tapatalk does not support all the functionality of the system we use. Users were unaware of some information because tapatalk simply ignored it. Not sure how other forums are, but I'd bet mine isn't the only one that has that problem.

The big differences to your other bikes (other than the belt drive) is the lubrication. Your roadie has a dry sump engine lubrication system and separate lube for the transmission. When you drain the oil from the crankcase you'll only get a cup or so. Most of it is in the oil tank under the seat. That oil tank has a separate drain plug along the right frame rail, below the seat. The oil tank cap has a dipstick on it (no sight window) and is REALLY easy to over fill. If I remember correctly at just over 3 quarts it'll overfill. You need to run it, and add almost another quart to finish the job. The dipstick needs to thread through a narrow passage and it's really easy to brush the sides and mess up your reading. Have fun with that! Otherwise, nothing special to worry about.

Ideally you should put the axle in v-blocks and check with a dial indicator. Realistically though you can feel any problem. Lay the axle on a VERY flat surface (drill press table, sheet of glass etc.) with the head hanging over the edge. Roll it under your hand, if you feel it moving up and down it's bent.

It should be straight. Contrary to my answer to your wheel bearing question, I'd replace the bearings if I was replacing a bent axle no matter how they feel.

When the wheel is off turn them with your finger and make sure they turn smoothly and there isn't any play. If they feel good I wouldn't replace them. You can ruin a brand new bearing on install if you don't use the proper tool or substitute.

The backlight isn't part of the LCD. One of the instrument cluster lamps shines through it via a light pipe. You could have bad connection(s), bad fuse(s) or a bad display.

I'm in the shop now and checked the package, the Kuryakyn 6180 is what I have too. They're outstanding.

You want a set of 7/8" grips. They also need to be the correct length, which I cannot recall what that is (measure). I love my Kuryakyn ISO grips - get the ones listed for Gold Wing 1500. As Freebird said, some grips come with a new tube for the right. As I recall though, my ISO grips required me to reuse my old throttle tube. Try cutting and peeling (but be careful not to cut up the plastic tube).

If you can pass the axle completely through the washer and caliper bracket then something is not right. The proper axle has a shoulder that will not pass through those.

The axle attaches the wheel and caliper bracket to the final drive on the left of the swing arm. As stated before, the axle has a shoulder that will not pass through the washer, caliper bracket or wheel. The purpose of the pinch bolt is to secure the right side of the swing arm to the axle. The only thing you can accomplish with is a pin is to bind the swing arm into the wheel assembly.

There is no lash adjustment for the primary gear set. It is what it is.

You can make that one work. Stick the key in (new one is probably your best bet). Take a fine file and file down the wafers where they stick out from the cylinder. Theoretically I suppose it makes the lock easier to pick, but I don't think you should have much concern there.