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MiCarl

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Everything posted by MiCarl

  1. MiCarl
    The light controllers cost a few bux too.
  2. MiCarl
    Here's another house: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YK1O5pkDniA]YouTube - Trans Siberian Orchestra X-mas Lights[/ame]
  3. MiCarl
    That is the cost of labor/hour building vehicles. A sizable chunk of that $77 is payments to the hundreds of thousands of retirees, it's included in the labor cost. I used to be a contractor to Ford product development. There was a lot of prototype work and the building was full of skilled trades. Anytime we wanted a job done we needed to get OT authorized because they never had time to do it during regular hours. They did seem to have lots of time for reading the paper, playing cards and running their side businesses during regular hours. The salary people weren't much better.
  4. MiCarl
    That horn is also available in Chrome. I run a pair I got from J.C. Whitney on my 89. Make sure the power lead is heavy enough and they'll wake the dead.
  5. MiCarl
    That would speed the compressor. You need the larger pulley on the compressor or smaller on the motor. You mention a 5hp motor. You're not trying to run a 240 motor on 120 volts are you?
  6. MiCarl
    I'm surprised MamaMo hasn't applied some motivation to your round tuit.
  7. MiCarl
    If you find one I'd appreciate if you'd post the part number. I'm pretty sure mine isn't stock since it's blue-white and not very bright. Thanks.
  8. MiCarl
    Perhaps if you'd gone a bit slower the cops wouldn't have had any problems AND the plastic might not have blown off it.
  9. MiCarl
    I think that bolt pattern is pretty much standardized at 4". Since you have 8" wheels now the fenders might have to be relocated to clear the larger wheel. Wouldn't surprise me if the alternate mounting holes are already there since they sell the same trailer in 8" and 10" wheel versions.
  10. MiCarl
    All tires lose some air. Because the volume of a motorcycle tire is so much smaller it becomes an issue much faster than on a car or truck tire. Realistically they should be checked before every ride. I check mine at least weekly.
  11. MiCarl
    Looks like we're not going to have a lot of color. Yellows and browns mostly.
  12. MiCarl
    Getting the final drive off is quite easy. Just remove the rear wheel, then the 4 nuts that hold the final drive onto the swingarm. Just pull straight back on it and it should slide out. If the end on the pinion is good the driveshaft will in all likelihood come with it. Parts are still available new. The ring and pinion however are only available by purchasing the entire final drive assembly. $900 or so. In my case I lucked into the final from a 99 that had been triked. I got a rearend with 900 miles on it for free. It is, however, not an exact replacement. The hole for the speed sensor had to be plugged. Somewhere it is about 1/4" thinner, so the rear wheel gets shifted 1/4" to the left. Gear ratio is the same as the 1st gen.
  13. MiCarl
    I thought motorcycle groups existed so there was an excuse to go for ice cream.
  14. MiCarl
    This was my problem. That nut keeps the preload on the bearing. The inner race is 2 pieces and they will start to work apart, causing the bearing to fail. Mine was quiet under acceleration but quite noisy with engine braking. Once it started it got worse fast.
  15. MiCarl
    Good excuse to check the valve lash too.
  16. MiCarl
    On mine the grommet the stator wires runs through didn't fill the hole. It left a gap up against the crankcase. When you get it running the rotor throws oil up there. When the oil heats up it really comes out through there. I ended up putting a bead of RTV on it, set finger tight and torqued an hour later.
  17. MiCarl
    Mine has said jumper in it until I get to servicing the switch. It's on the right side, under the side cover along the frame rail near the front of the seat. Pair of bullet connectors.
  18. MiCarl
    I believe the famed second gear issue causes the transmission to actually jump out of gear. Slipping would indicate a clutch problem. Much easier (and cheaper) to fix.
  19. MiCarl
    I think everyone agrees that a full tank of fuel with stabilizer is essential. The motorcycle draws a bit of power even when switched off so a battery tender or disconnect and charge every month or so. Fresh oil for storage so you don't have acids eating away at things. Personally, I don't drain carburetors. Run stabilized fuel in then re top off the tank. One thing that hasn't been mentioned. If you don't get the weight off the tires they should be inflated to their maximum pressure and the motorcycle should be moved regularly to avoid having the tires take a set where they deform at the contact patch.
  20. MiCarl
    Don't forget the crush washer.
  21. MiCarl
    I've heard of them being replaced with an appropriately sized watch crystal.
  22. MiCarl
    Ditto. Stator wire leak is no big deal. Clutch slave leaks are, don't have much extra to loose. Might want to take a close look at the master cylinder and make sure you're not loosing fluid from the clutch.
  23. MiCarl
    BJB. I had a similar leak. In my case that grommet had apparently shrunk a bit and didn't completely fill the opening in the cover. When pressed in the flat end was a bit lower than the face of the cover. My oil was leaking between there and the engine. A bead of RTV on the end of the grommet sealed it up. If you've got the cover off you might want to have a look at that too.
  24. MiCarl
    I used to sell cars. You want to separate the selling price from the financing and the trade in. If you have any two on the table at the same time you will get the short end of the stick. This becomes a shell game, and the dealer does this for a living. No way you'll be able to keep track of the pea.
  25. MiCarl
    While you have it apart hit all the buttons with the cleaner. The ones that currently work will stop next week if you don't.
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