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MiCarl

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Everything posted by MiCarl

  1. MiCarl
  2. MiCarl
    now I can see flb_78, but he's not talking to me.
  3. MiCarl
    I got out and back in. I had to reload about 4 times until it finally worked.
  4. MiCarl
    I'm in there. Been in for over an hour (alone). I had to reload the page a time or 2 because it didn't ever finish processing the login.
  5. MiCarl
    The clutch switch is still available. It's a lot of $$$. That's why I have mine super glued in place (retaining tab is broken off). They're pretty easy to disassemble too. Slide the rubber cover off the back and it's held together by 2 little locking tabs. If you decide to replace yours I'd like a crack at the old one, I could use the housing.
  6. MiCarl
    On mine the pivot hole was worn out. That keeps the lever from pushing the switch too.
  7. MiCarl
    The 385lb. rating will be for extreme conditions. This means a hard stop, from high speed, down a steep grade, hitting a pothole, in the rain with a 100mph tailwind. Stay on straight, flat, good pavement at 25MPH and you can probably get away with exceeding the capacity. The reason I mentioned tires is twofold: 1- They are the component most prone to sudden catastrophic failure. 2- They are an easy and inexpensive upgrade. I mentioned the springs because it is clear from people we ride with that when you get into the 400+ pound range the stock spring is just too soft for comfort and handling, even under non-extreme riding conditions. Springs are also a pretty easy upgrade. By the way, the load rating for a tire isn't the whole story either. There is also the speed rating. So, a 77H tire is rated to handle 908 lbs., at 130mph, at maximum inflation pressure (for 10 minutes). A 77S tire would only be good for 908 lbs. at 112mph. Again, at 25mph both tires would probably safely carry a load above 908 lbs.
  8. MiCarl
    Bleeding a clutch is just like bleeding brakes. One thing you need to be aware of though is that as the clutch wears the fluid in the reservoir will rise (opposite of brakes), so you shouldn't fill full up. Reservoir is on the left handle bar. Bleed is at the clutch slave cylinder. Above your left foot peg, just on top of the case is a rectangular rubber cover that you can pull off to expose the bleed screw. The MKII Ventures use DOT4. Not sure about the MKI, but I'd guess they use DOT3. Should be cast into the reservoir cover actually. You want to avoid getting brake fluid on anything, particularly paint or plastic. If you do wash it with soap and water immediately to avoid damage. Not to offend, but since it wasn't readily apparent to you where the reservoir is you sound pretty inexperienced. You might want to get an assist from someone who has done brakes or clutches.
  9. MiCarl
    Almost everyone riding a Venture 2 up will be overloaded. I figure we go at least 450 (not counting Mrs. purse). The progressive springs I believe are on it seem to be a big help. Similar sized couples with stock suspension seem to have bottoming issues. We actually ride with the rear air pressure set to medium and the front to low without any trouble. The book calls for a tire that has a fairly low load range (I don't have the book in front of me, but a D404 meets the spec). I think a higher load rated tire is in order for 2 up riding, and at the inflation pressure recommended by the tire manufacturer, not the Yamaha recommended pressure.
  10. MiCarl
    I think there may be some issues with chat this morning. Twice I had to reload the page to get it to finish loading settings or process the login (Using Firefox 2.0.0.8).
  11. MiCarl
    YAMA MAMA, I know you were not feeling quite yourself yesterday. Glad to see you're (almost) back to your old self.
  12. MiCarl
    I'd sure like to see a picture of those covers, or alternatively have a crack at the vent from your Right side if you have it.
  13. MiCarl
    I don't do April Fools jokes. I think the whole thing is childish!
  14. MiCarl
    Welcome. Many of us in The States get training from the Motorcycle Safety Foundation. Unfortunately, it appears they do not operate outside the U.S. You might check these guys out: http://www.ridertraining.org/. I'm with Tim. Spend a year or two on something lighter than a Venture.
  15. MiCarl
    Cindy, I'm not any kind of expert but there is no way I would look at anything before the trial without discussing with the Prosecutor first. It would be a damn shame to create a technicality that lets the scum off.
  16. MiCarl
    Once everything is together except the spring and cap bolt. Put in the oil, drop in the spring and close them up.
  17. MiCarl
    Marcarl, something about your drawing doesn't look right. In particular, in the stock horn configuration the switch is on the ground side, not the hot side. Here is a method that will work: Plug the primary side of the relay into the harness where the stock horns plug in. I don't remember the numbers on the relay, but they are the poles that the wiring diagram indicates you run the switch to. (85 & 86?) Now run a fused + from the battery to one of the secondary posts (30?). I think Wolo says use a 20A fuse, but I run a pair on 1 15A fuse. The remaining pole on the relay (87?) goes to the air horn +. The - on the air horn goes to your frame ground.
  18. MiCarl
    Bracket for the bottom of the chin piece. You could probably rig something clamp on to your existing case guards.
  19. MiCarl
    Me too, but I just looked at the wiring diagram and it sure seems like there is no place for that to happen. EXCEPT - there were originally 2 horns, with 2 connections on each side of the motorcycle, anything funny connected to the other side? The relay that comes with the Bad Boy horn is just a plain SPST relay. 2 terminals on the primary, 2 on the secondary. Separate power on each half.
  20. MiCarl
    Now for my . I would never ever deliberately pinch a brake hose. Hate to find the hose was weakened when I needed it in a hurry. I open the bleed screw and push apart the old pads with a small pry bar. Then close the bleed screw and install the new pads. FWIW, if your brake fluid isn't crystal clear it should be changed. Once it turns honey colored (or even darker!) it has moisture in it. It's effectiveness is reduced and that moisture is gumming up the pistons so next time you need a long pry bar to push them back.
  21. MiCarl
    36mpg at 70 sounds about right. Keep it below 60 and you'll be pushing 40. I believe the auto canceler is controlled by distance and time. Both a certain amount of time and a certain amount of distance need to pass before it cancels. Probably what is happening is you turn the signal on while rolling, eat up the distance and then the clock runs out while you wait for the light. I'm in the habit of frequently re-tapping the switch.
  22. MiCarl
    Peg, just remember. You can never have too many motorcycles:stirthepot:
  23. MiCarl
    You need to check the following: 1 - Check that you have +12V on the red/white wires to the coils. 2 - Check that you have +12V on the red/white wire at the Ignitor 3 - Make sure the black/white wire at the Ignitor is not grounded (sidestand/neutral circuit).
  24. MiCarl
    Your problem is that the light bar doesn't have a separate brake circuit from the turn signals. It's essentially the same issue people have with 4 wire trailer connections. You need a 5-4 wire converter from the auto parts store or from a trailer supply place.
  25. MiCarl
    When you push the pistons back in the fluid level in the reservoir will rise. If you've been keeping it topped up you may want to remove some with a clean paper towel so it doesn't overflow. Brake fluid is the best paint remover there is.
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