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MiCarl

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Everything posted by MiCarl

  1. MiCarl
    At idle I can see the turn signal move my meter big time, especially with the brake on. Last year I went through the whole charging system and replaced the battery so I'm confident this is normal.
  2. MiCarl
    The one on the wheel you can change without a problem. The one on the final drive is part of the ring gear. Change it out and you will need to set the gear lash by measuring and inserting appropriate shims. Not for the faint of heart. We've got another thread going on replacing 1st gen final drives with a 2nd gen drive. That's what I ended up doing on my 89 when the pinion gear broke. I'd start looking for someone that triked a 2nd gen and wants the final drive out from under foot. Having said all that, you are welcome to my busted 89. The ring gear is good. You pay shipping. Oh, the bearings are shot too, so you would need to disassemble the gear from the plate and install a new bearing.
  3. MiCarl
    Dual air horns, although I haven't done much night riding since I added the fog and driving lights so it could change.....
  4. MiCarl
    Could be. On the other hand that part on an 89 is 1FK-46153-00-00. I checked and it has not been superseded. How much you wanna bet the 1st gen one is 6-8mm longer? HEY! Since I'm at the shop I can just measure the 1st gen (MKII) final I took off: Laying the final drive on the bench - with the ring gear up I measure the top of the collar at 89.29mm. Flipping the final over so the splined part of the ring gear is on the bench I get overall height of 117.9mm. Didn't you say you had a 2nd gen final laying around loose? Start measuring! **EDIT** Randya, I am using the 1st gen axle.
  5. MiCarl
    The whole assembly does shift to the left, except the castle nut. It's tight against the outside of the final drive. That's why the hole for the cotter pin is above the top of the nut. Of course I found all this at the end of assembly on a really nice riding day, so I just left it. Next time I have it apart I'll double up on the washer outside the caliper carrier to pull the axle back to the right and let the cotter pin do it's job.
  6. MiCarl
    Not 100% sure about that. My rear wheel tracks about 1/4 inch left of the front. I've got 1 degree of twist in the swing arm which moves the tire back to the right - so it might actually be a bit more than 1/4". I do no that the boring for the pin falls outside the slots on the castle nut.
  7. MiCarl
    Correct. The men paid $27. $25 to the hotel + the $2 the bellboy pocketed.
  8. MiCarl
    On the bench they both seemed the same to me too. When I went to put the cotter pin in the axle nut I noticed that the hole in the axle was beyond the castle nut. Checking the alignment as part of another exercise I did measure the rear wheel tracks about 1/4" left of the front. I didn't have any parts left over. When I was doing my research I checked and found that all the interface parts on 2nd gen were the same as 1st gen. Near as I can figure the overall pumpkin is a bit narrower to accommodate a wider wheel on the 2nd gen. That's a sharp looking plug in your picture. Mine is similar, but without the round plug part. I had thought about tapping for a pipe plug, but mine was a gift and I wanted to be able to return it if it didn't work out.
  9. MiCarl
    I replaced mine with the final of a 2nd Gen. I made a tear drop shaped piece of 1/4" aluminum stock to cover the hole. It is drilled at the small end to be attached by the speedo sensor mounting bolt. I put a bit of RTV around the edges of the sensor hole to seal things up. The 2nd Gen final drive is slightly narrower than the 1st gen final. It will shift the wheel about 1/4" to the left. Not a problem.
  10. MiCarl
    Mine has a great big truss head screw that I believe to be stock, no way the grommet will slip over it. Now, the crappy glue job the PO did on the tab is a different matter.....
  11. MiCarl
    NEVER, NO, ABSOLUTELY NOT. Do not use a petroleum based anything on a tire, it can damage the rubber.
  12. MiCarl
    Me too. I don't have to invest the time looking it up, ordering it, keeping track of it and tying up my money until the job is done. If you're doing low volume the Harbor Freight tire changer is adequate. I prefer using irons though to the lever and post that comes with it. I've found that if wheel bearings are good the tire can be balanced by putting the wheel on the axle and suspending it between two supports (saw horses, chairs, 2 work benches etc.). The smallest tire weights are 7g and I can easily tell using that method if the tire is balanced withing that amount. It takes a lot longer than a spin balancer, but again if you're only doing it occasionally it's not worth the $$ to own a balancer.
  13. MiCarl
    Yep. In mine I run SUPERTECH 15w40 (Wal*Mart house brand). It's a couple $/gallon less than the Rotella and I wouldn't be surprised if the only difference is the bottle.
  14. MiCarl
    I knew I should have annotated it more for this post. Box on left is indeed the battery. Box with numbers is the relay. The relay has numbers on it and you plug things in to match the number. The cylinder thingy is the compressor. Specifically it's intended to look like a nautalis horn. The things that look like christmas trees indicate ground or -. The point of the diagram is that you unplug the stock horn and plug the relay in in it's place. The wires are long enough you can tuck the relay in behind the cover. Then you run (+) from the battery, through a fuse, to the relay. Then you run a wire from the relay to the horn. Finally, you hook a wire from the (-) terminal on the horn to ground.
  15. MiCarl
    That plug is in just about the worst place possible. I hope there is a special place in hell for the engineer that put it there. If you manage to get a wrench on it without the other end of the wrench against the floor you've already worked a miracle. I did one last week, on a lift, and had to jack it up to get room to turn the wrench. What you really need is called a "crow's foot". It is like the end of a open end wrench with a square hole you can put your big old ratchet handle on.
  16. MiCarl
    Bongo, Letting 2nd geners wrench on a first gen is like going to Edward Scissor Hands for brain surgery. Not a comforting thought.
  17. MiCarl
    Kbay, Here is a diagram for connecting the compact air horns (Wolo Bad Boy, Stebel Nautalis, etc.) Maybe it'll be helpful.
  18. MiCarl
    Snaggletooth, the cracks go clear through, just hard to see them on the unfinished inside. Head up to the hobby shop. They sell cement for abs that is liquid. It will wick into the crack and make an invisible repair.
  19. MiCarl

    Chat

    MiCarl replied to cliffno350's topic in Watering Hole

    Seems to be. I made an alternate hangout: http://xat.com/venturerider
  20. MiCarl
    Looks like we're in the alternate room again tonight.
  21. MiCarl
    Not that easy my friend. Originally there was a sleeve inside the grommet, with a truss head hex drive machine screw (chrome!). I believe Mama Yamaha still sells the parts.
  22. MiCarl
    Yama Mama is disappointed in the turnout for the chat. To entice new participants I have set the background to be a picture of large breasts.
  23. MiCarl
    I have created an alternate chat room for when the regular one is non functional. LINK: http://xat.com/VentureRider **EDIT** The first time you come in the chat will assign you a whimsical name. If you type the word "name" you will get instructions on how to change your name. Please make it your regular VR name.
  24. MiCarl
    Yep, happening to me too now.
  25. MiCarl
    I just had a brief chat with pilothawk. Looks like we're back in bizness.
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