MiCarl

You're correct, the one with the magnet goes on the bottom. No opinion on the lube.

You don't need the clutch to shift it. You might need a helper though. The problem you're having is in many cases the transmission won't shift unless things are turning. One of you turn the clutch basket by hand while the other shifts up into 2nd (it doesn't matter which way you turn it). Now the transmission is in gear and you won't be able to turn the clutch basket but you can rock it back and forth. Rock it back and forth to aide shifting into gears 3-5.

They make a tool to hold it but I just put the transmission in 5th gear and have a helper hold down the brake pedal. I do them on a lift where they can't go anywhere though, you want to make sure it doesn't roll off the stand. You don't need anything on the gasket.

I think the lesson here is that when you encounter an idiot on the road the best course of action is to create lots of distance. I had to dig around to find video from before the kick too. Presumably a car lane changing on top of a motorcycle isn't news, where the biker kicking a car leading to an impressive crash is. Man bites dog, you know. The motorcyclist had some incredible skills. In addition to kicking the car at freeway speed he managed to keep his cool and navigate the crash and debris field.

Most of the shootings in Chicago are gang on gang. In most of our big cities you're pretty safe so long as you aren't somewhere you shouldn't be or doing something you shouldn't be doing.

What the reports probably aren't telling you is that before a firearm can leave a dealer the buyer must pass an FBI background check. Once the paperwork is filled out the check usually only takes minutes. This is federal law and applies in all 50 states. Private transactions are different. Since I do not engage in the buying and selling of firearms as a business (I'm not a dealer) I can sell cowpuc a long gun without a background check or even doing any paperwork. For a hand gun the transaction would have to be registered with the state of Michigan, state law, doesn't apply everywhere. The "Gun Show Loophole" you hear about has to do with private party transactions. If I sell cowpuc grandpa's old squirrel rifle at a gun show (a kind of flea market) there wouldn't need to be a background check. Someone taking a crate of squirrel rifles to the show is a dealer, needs a federal firearm license, and must do a background check on cowpuc just as he would in his store. I would be committing a crime if I went into a dealer, passed the background check, and purchased a firearm with the intention of re-selling it to cowpuc in a private transaction. I believe it's a felony.

There really isn't a screw attaching the carb body to the engine. The carb body slips into a rubber carburetor holder and is secured with a clamp. The screw head in your picture seems to be recessed, the clamp screws don't do that.

We could have a "guess what screw that is" contest. My bet is it's a 1st gen drain screw. If so it'll be a little trickier than most other screws. If I recall correctly the head isn't larger than the screw diameter. I think for that one I'd try and cut a slot for a standard screwdriver. THEN I'd immerse the carburetor in very hot water (boiling or almost boiling) for 10 minutes to heat it up. The heat will do 2 things: 1) Soften any gunk locking it in and 2) expand the carb body off the screw a bit. Once it's all good and hot I'd try the screwdriver on it.

I'm ahead of Flyinfool. I get the error on line 1173. **EDIT** I misread Flyinfool's post. I thought it said he got the error at line 1178.

I'm pleasantly surprised. With the transcontinental package it's got all the features I consider required in a touring bike. Don't care that it's air cooled. I never understood water cooling a twin. Should be plenty of surface area on the engine to cool it. That park assist stuff is probably because it's so heavy. I wonder if it works with the engine off so you can move it around the garage.... Could be a nice point for the folks that want a big twin tourer but can't push an Ultra around. ABS is a must in my book, even though I haven't posted it in my other wish lists. ABS and motorcycles are made for each other and IMO it's a crime to design a motorcycle without it. Not a big fan of dry sump engines, makes maintenance more difficult. Not a show stopper though. The low red line is because it's got a big stroke and push rod valve train. Didn't dig through the specs but suspect hydraulic tappets so valve lash won't be a maintenance item. Not going to wind up like the V4 but should have a lot of low end torque. Not the kind of engine I like but the market seems to say that's what folks want from big cruisers and tourers. Hopefully the trunk on this one is large enough for 2 full face helmets.

@cowpuc, I will weigh in: When I first saw your original post my first reaction was that the Challenger had a lower load rating. Although I thought it was a 71, which is what Yamaha calls for. I run the Kruz which is a 77 and I went that route because I knew I over load the motorcycle. I cannot find load ratings for the Challenger, even on the Kenda site. I did see their warning about heavy motorcycles. But then your sidewall stamp says otherwise. I'm wondering if they changed the specs on the Challenger. I'm goofing off today but I'll try to remember when I'm in the shop Monday to check the book.

The K&L 35-3462 is the tool on the right side of the picture. In the catalog it has the item number printed under it. The image in the ad appears to have been scanned from the catalog and the part numbers trimmed off. The flat tool is not the 35-3462 and it won't do a Yamaha V-4. I'll have to look when I'm in the shop Tuesday, but I believe that left hand tool is for the Yamaha XJ motorcycles.

This is the tool you need: K&L Supply 35-3462 Their picture is wrong. They copied the image from the K&L catalog and got 2 tools. The 35-3462 is the one on the right.

Much ado about nothing. Probably not even a good party. My bet is a big twin, hard bags (no trunk) and some sort of bluetooth audio/nav system. Not "all the goodies" imo.

I'm very particular about the order my sandwiches are assembled: - Bread - Mustard (or mayo) - Meat - Cheese - Tomato - Bread The placement of the tomato layer is somewhat rational. If tomato is against the bread it tends to stay put. If a restaurant brings me a burger with lettuce between the tomato and bun I will reassemble because I know that tomato is going to shoot out.

I use "Calls Blacklist". I set it so it only rings for my contacts. It also has white list and black list features. It will do text messages but you have to use it as your texting app (Android). I haven't used the texting feature because I don't have a problem with that.

Those numbers are just not believable on a 40k mile bike unless it's been severely abused. Compression test should be done with: 1) All spark plugs removed. 2) Throttles wide open. 3) Fully charged battery (I prefer to also connect a boost box). If all three were true I'd get my hands on another gauge and try it again.

I get that Yamaha has to make what they can sell. My beef is they have been slapping bags on medium and heavy cruisers and calling them touring motorcycles. We'll see if this time is different.

My bet: Fuel injected, liquid cooled big twin. GPS audio system built in. Two hard bags (too small, but look fancy). No trunk, no cruise, no CB. Maybe reverse. Maybe fairing of the RSTD type.

snyper316 may be on to something. Yes, rubber tipped needles can get the grooves. My guess is that something isn't quite right and it's more apparent when the carburetors and fuel get good and hot from sitting over a hot engine. Does the fuel spill stop when fresh, cool fuel gets into the carburetors? Or does it keep flowing until you let the motorcycle cool down?

The pump works by cocking a diaphragm against a spring, then the spring pushes the fuel. Short of replacing the spring I don't see any way the fuel pressure could be too high. My bet is floats and/or float valves.

86-89 Venture Simplified Circuit Diagram

This makes a lot of sense to me. Even if you could pull the head in frame you remove so much to get to it you're 90% to having the engine out. Might as well pull the engine so you can do the head carefully and comfortably.

Which is the sole purpose of higher octane. On the 1st Gen motorcycles there is that vacuum line to the TCI. The TCI is supposed to watch that and retard the timing under heavy load to keep it from detonating (spark ping, knock). Perhaps yours was malfunctioning or was just never up to the task of dealing with the load of the trailer and hills. On the 2nd Gen Yamaha used a Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) instead of a vacuum sensor. Presumably a better way to evaluate load and the computerized ignition likely does a better job managing the timing. Modern automobile engines have knock sensors (in addition to all the other sensors). If the computer detects knock it'll retard the timing until the knock stops. This is why my wife's Lincoln can have label stating "89 octane min. recommended", instead of required. While the engine is designed for 89 octane the computer can retard the timing to where the 87 doesn't cause damage.

That's a good point. If he got hold of ethanol free fuel that will make a difference in MPG.