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MiCarl

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Everything posted by MiCarl

  1. MiCarl
    That 30 amp relay is a pretty good hint that you'll need to provide a bigger power source than the stock wiring, just like with air horns. By the dimensions they seem to be quite a bit larger (and probably heavier) than stock horns. Decent chance the stock brackets won't work. No way to tell from the pictures if the included brackets are long enough to work on a Venture. What you might be able to do is bend them so the horns are swept back at 30 degrees or so. I did this with my first Wolo installation and I think it was quite a bit nicer than having them stick way out.
  2. MiCarl
    Everything comes apart. Lots of Phillips screws though........
  3. MiCarl
    How you going to sync it? The QuadraJet had two small primary venturies and two extremely large venturies. If I recall right (it's been a long time since I've had a Rochester QuadraJet) through most of the throttle range it behaved like a small bore 2 bbl carburetor. The big secondaries were opened by engine vacuum, but limited by the throttle position. When the little guys were wide open (or nearly so) the stop began to move out of the way so the secondaries could open. It gave a very responsive throttle and good economy for normal driving, but boy did you know it when the secondaries kicked in. You haven't lived if you haven't heard the roar of air pouring down the big holes in a QuadraJet! The only carburetor set up more responsive than a QuadraJet is multiple carburetors on short intake runs. Kind of like Yamaha uses on their motorcycles...........
  4. MiCarl
    Except I think he was going faster than 80, I doubt 10mph difference is enough to throw him over the bars and into the bed of the truck. I wonder if there even was a deer.
  5. MiCarl
    Looking at schematic now. No relays on the power lead to the cruise control power button. Power is on the Red/White lead. All the switches and fuses on that circuit also provide power to the TCI, so if the motorcycle runs you don't have component failure. The "power" light is dumb. When the cruise switch is "ON" that light should light regardless of the condition of the other components. If you don't have power on the R/W lead to the light panel it's got to be a bad connection or a broken wire.
  6. MiCarl
    "Turns" is meaningless on the sync screws. The reason you can't adjust the idle down is they are way out of sync and one of your butterflies is completely closed - holding the others open. The 18" trans fluid manometer too short to sync with unless you're very close to begin with. I just worked this out for someone on the XJ bikes site. An 18" column of oil is only about 1 psi or 2" mercury. When I sync carburetors it's quite common for one to be out by 2" mercury or more. From the symptoms you have after turning the sync screws you are likely to be out by at least 10" mercury. Your manometer probably needs to be at least 8-12 feet tall to straighten them out. The guy I mentioned previously ended up using a vacuum gauge to get them close then used the manometer for the final tweak.
  7. MiCarl
    Yamaha put the TCI where it was because it was convenient in the Design/Assembly or just because there was space there. They really weren't worrying too much about diagnosing intermittent faults 25 years later.
  8. MiCarl
    My 89 has that same connector with nothing plugged into it. Mine wasn't tucked under the seat though - it hangs down along the frame. Everything on my bike seems to work properly.
  9. MiCarl
    Welcome! I just responded to your post on the xjbikes site. Guess you didn't need the link after all!
  10. MiCarl
    Splines are not lubed by final drive oil. Use moly grease on them. Max pressure setting for front on the CLASS is 21PSI. I can't help you with the raising question because I have aftermarket springs that keep the forks fully extended until my fat azz is in the seat. I run them at 0 PSI.
  11. MiCarl
    Oil the bushings and the seal before you install them. It's a good idea to lube both sides - makes them easier to drive home. You must have your measurements listed incorrectly if you need to cut your PVC. The ones you listed should fit. I use seal drivers which are 2 pieces and pins to keep the halves aligned. With PVC I'd consider a kerf on both sides about 5" long - leave the other end together to hold things in place. The top of the oil seal has a lip. You don't want to bang on that. I'd suggest chamfering the inside diameter of your PVC. Drive the bushing home first, then install the seal and washer.
  12. MiCarl
    None here. But I have one that has been protecting my workbench for over a year. Someday I'll move it to the bike.
  13. MiCarl
    I'm with Goose, with an addition. There is a reason the insurance company wants 4X. They know he's much more likely to wreck the scoot. Are you sure you want him making his mistakes on your ride? I'd spend more than a couple hundred (1000-1500) and get something he can ride with just liability. Best if he comes up with the $$ himself.
  14. MiCarl

    new bike

    MiCarl replied to diggerc's topic in Watering Hole

    Congrats on the new scoot and welcome to the site! When you post a message, way down below the dialog box, below the Smilies and below the Post Icons you will see a box marked Additional Options. In that box there is a button labeled "Manage Attachments". Click that and a window will open that lets you attach files (pictures in your case) to the post.
  15. MiCarl
    Spacer should be hollow. If you keep it solid you might consider lowering the fork oil level by the length of the spacer (You've just made a smaller air pocket).
  16. MiCarl
    Your diagram looks like my understanding of how the washer and springs should be assembled. The taper spindle is called the "oil lock piece" on some other Yamaha motorcycles. I think that is a clue to it's function. Since I had the good fortune to break the anti-dive off my 89 while caving in the side of a car that pulled out in front of me I can see that the anti-dive provides a passage for the oil to flow around the taper spindle. In the process of repairing rebuilding my front end I learned that the anti dives completely block that passage when activated. This makes sense because if the fluid can't flow the forks can't dive. I suspect that the taper spindle in conjunction with the spring (which the washer simply keeps the two pieces from nesting) forms a pressure relief valve. So while braking if you hit a bump the taper spindle will lift against the spring and allow some oil to flow so you don't knock your eyeballs out.
  17. MiCarl
    It's the intercom knob that controls intercom volume (right knob, inner). It's not designed to do what you want, it's designed to mute the radio when the intercom is in use. The volume is supposed to be set high enough that a voice in the mic mutes the music but not so high that ambient noise interrupts the audio. You can turn the volume way down, but then it'll be difficult to hear the intercom over the music.
  18. MiCarl
    Tony, Sorry I misled you on the tool. It's at my shop. I guess it's 5/8 or 3/4 rod. I don't think you'll be able to get all those spacers in with the springs you have. By the way, you have a dual rate spring. I've got an 88 parts bike that I used some of the fork parts from. Those springs were single rate and very light duty. That's why I assumed stock springs were single rate - I can't imagine these springs were an "upgrade". Whatever springs are in my 89 don't leave any room for a spacer. They protrude from the top of the fork about 1/2", which seems fairly typical. While the spring behaves the same whichever direction it is installed, putting the tight end at the top reduces unsprung mass slightly (the weight of the spring is shifted more toward the frame and less toward the wheel). Less unsprung mass and more sprung mass improves ride quality. It's pretty easy to get the upper fork tubes out of the tree. I'd go that route rather than messing around with a tool to hold the oil lock together. Also, much less likely to damage the seal if you put it on from that end.
  19. MiCarl
    Looks like the risers to me too. The top of the triple tree isn't parallel to the bars.
  20. MiCarl
    They have the same error on all the shim kits. I got 3 each of the 25 and 29mm kits. I can tell you that the K&L wholesale price is more than 6 bucks for the box. Thanks for sharing!
  21. MiCarl
    Lever: 26H-83922-10-00 LEVER 2 (26H-83922-01) Switch: 26H-83980-00-00 FRONT STOP SWITCH ASSEMBLY Cost $45.27 at cheapcycleparts.com. Shipping is probably $10 or so.
  22. MiCarl
    There is a reason no shop will plug that tire. It'd probably be fine but if it isn't your widow ends up owning their business. I know an engineer at Firestone. He will not accept plugs in his car tires. On the other hand, most of mine are full of plugs and I've never had a tire failure. Too big a chance for loss of control if a tire fails. For me, it's worth the $$ to replace a motorcycle tire.
  23. MiCarl
    Oh, one more thing: From the pics it looks like you have some nitrile gloves. When you're ready to slide the new seal onto the fork upper cut the hem off a glove and put it over the fork. Slather it up with fork oil then slide the seal over it. This will keep the edge of the fork from damaging the seal.
  24. MiCarl
    That piece hanging out is the damper rod. If you turn the fork over it should fall out. Otherwise a push with a dowel rod should do it. After it's out is a great time to grind your tool a bit for good fit (mine has nut ground on one end and not on the other. I use it for many forks and thought the full sized nut fit the rod) Hope you paid attention to how the oil lock and sprigs went on the end of it (I didn't think of it until I saw the damper rod). The springs in my 89, while single rate, have no spacer, and there really is no room for one. It's stiff enough as it is. In fact, I'm probably over oiled for the heavier spring. I assume that with the spring installed it protrudes from the top just a bit? Were you happy with the ride? If so, don't add a spacer. That appears to be a dual rate spring. I believe the change in pitch on a progressive is continuous, where that spring definitely has 2 separate pitches. I'd be tempted to reduce the amount of fork oil due to the heavier spring. I wish that had occurred to me when I built mine. Be interesting to know what the progressive instructions have to say about amount of oil. Anyone with progressives still have their instructions?
  25. MiCarl
    The torque spec on those caps is pretty low. Should be able to get away with a bolt that has a 17mm head and jamb a couple of nuts on it. While you're at the hardware store get yourself a 3' piece of half inch threaded rod and 4 nuts. Jamb 2 nuts together on each end of the rod. You'll need this tool to hold the damping rod while you pull the bolt from the bottom of the fork. The bolt in the bottom of the fork is has a socket head. I'm pretty sure it's 8mm but not certain it's not 10. Might want to grab those while you're out. Because of the recess the bolt is in you want them to be 3/8 drive or long, the 1/2" drive won't fit in there.
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