MiCarl
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Everything posted by MiCarl
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CB (portable) Question......
MiCarl replied to Aussie Annie's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
I assume from your post that the CB frequencies are not available for personal use in OZ. If that's the case not only will you be breaking the law but there won't be many people to talk to. Pretty handy to be able to communicate when you end up in a group. In the States a lot of the short range radio communications has gone over to FRS/GMRS, including on motorcycles. You might ask other riders, that might be a better option for you. -
At that price they'd be my favorite tire.
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middle gear cover???
MiCarl replied to Saddle_Bag's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Top picture is of the middle gear case, bottom is the cover. Oil gets through the little half moon cutaway on the cover to drain when you pull the bottom bolt. You can also see the larger diameter hole at the top left of Dingy's first picture. That is one of the dowel holes. The other one would be on the right, just above the top of the picture. -
Different part numbers, so may not.
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middle gear cover???
MiCarl replied to Saddle_Bag's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Are you talking about the dowel pins? There should be two of them, parts fiche isn't very clear on where they go. MKII service manual picture looks like the holes for them are at 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock. You can tell where they go by the larger holes in the gasket. That reminded me, I have a spare gasket and they are indeed at 4 and 8. There is no pin on the bottom hole, the one with the washer. Be aware that leaks at the grommets where the wires pass through the side cover look like they're coming from the middle gear cover. The oil runs down the wires and drips off the low spot - right behind the bottom of the middle gear cover. -
Does this mean she wins the "I can go longer without posting than you" contest?
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Metzeler 880 corporate irresponsibility sends me to darkside
MiCarl replied to jonsmyth's topic in Watering Hole
The marks on your tire is not what a typical failure looks like. The problem people have been having is the tread separating from the carcas. As far as I know nobody riding 1 up has had a rear ME880 fail. When I bought my 89 it had new condition ME880s on it, and I loved them (except for a little rumble when cornering). My rear tread started to separate after a 360 mile ride, two up heavy in pretty warm weather. The last 100 miles were at 70-75mph. I had been watching it because of the problems others have had, and it had been fine at the start of the trip. Now, what I do not know is how the previous owner might have abused it. Based on some of the things I found he'd done I think it is probable they had been abused (run too low pressure). Both tires were losing air until I dismounted and cleaned up the bead surface on the wheels. The tire has a load index of 77H. This means it's rated to carry 908 lbs at 130mph at the maximum inflation pressure (50psi). I figure two up we're in the neighborhood of 900 lbs. on the rear tire. We were at 50psi inflation. We didn't go near 130 mph, problem is the 130 mph test is on a machine for 10 minutes or so. Not real world for extended time. Still, IMHO the tire should hold up at it's max load indefinitely at 70-75mph. I suspect we're fairly typical in our loading. My best guess is that at least some ME880s are not up to extended run times of 70-75 at max load. As all this implies, my decision was to keep the tire fully inflated and watch it carefully. I waited to replace it until I had a problem. My best guess is that if you're riding one up and not shopping in the big and tall store (and you're not tall) you'll probably be fine for the tread life. You need to keep an eye on it though. For what it's worth I've been told by the area Avon rep that all premium tires (Avon, Metzeler, Pirelli etc.) require a higher inflation pressure than the stock tires. -
I have some doubts.............
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Interesting wear. Might be normal scuffs. You're pressure is too low. With a premium tire you run the tire manufacturers pressure, not the one in your owners manual. Go to the Metzeler web site and look up your bike in the fitment guide. I bet you come up with 40-46lbs (depending on if you're riding 2 up). 2 up heavily loaded at too low a pressure is quick death to an ME880. Aw heck, I looked it up for you. They don't list the 84 anymore, but on the MKII they list 44psi rear 36psi front. For 2 up I'd go 50 and 42.
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A big thank you to everyone who has served and is serving. The reason there are so few replies is the thread topic. "Thank you VETS" would have got far more responses.
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I verified in the MKII manual this morning that it calls for Molybdenum Disulphide grease for both ends of the shaft on assembly. I was unable to quickly locate the assembly instructions for the MKI (online manual). The 2nd oil seal on the MKII is to make it difficult to grease the splines. In fact, I believe the book calls for it to be locked in with some adhesive or other. I know I destroyed my seal when I disassembled the rear end. I don't believe the book calls for lubrication of the splines as part of routine service on the 1st gens. I suspect the seal is to keep out dust to protect the grease. Perhaps they were aware of failures of the splines on the MKI?
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This keeps being said and it's incorrect. There is an oil seal behind the coupler that keeps the oil down in the pumpkin. If you've got gear oil in the coupler it's because your seal is shot. The splines on BOTH ends of the drive shaft should be lubed. In fact, the splines at the pumpkin end are more prone to wear because they also rock (no universal joint on back). This is true of the MKI, MKII and the 2nd gens. I suspect every Yamaha shaft drive is the same set up. MKI drive shafts are rare as hens teeth. There is no way I wouldn't lube it religiously.
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I'm a member of STAR, and while I have beefs this isn't one of them. They have restrictions on the display of their patch. There isn't a requirement that you even display their patch (mine is in a drawer somewhere). You can ride any motorcycle (or even not have a motorcycle at all). Only restriction is to be chapter president you need to own a Yamaha. Doesn't seem too unreasonable for a Yamaha sponsored organizations.......
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I have no idea what you are talking about but I'm sure somebody that knows something will be along to help you out.
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This morning I picked up a nasty that kept popping up and warning my computer was infected and did I want to scan etc. The little sucker couldn't be killed. It's known as Antivirus System Pro It was preventing me from opening the windows task manager so I could wring it's filthy little neck. Finally I logged off and back in and started the windows task manager before the malware got started. I was able to kill the processes and go after the damage it caused. If course I was aggravated and went after it with an axe and didn't really think about documenting what I did. My best recollections here for anyone that needs to rip it out: It had created a folder in "My Documents" named "Program Files". All it's nasty executables were in there. I deleted the folder. I use a hosts file to suppress ads. It had re-written the hosts file so it could phone home via a fake web name. I fixed the hosts file. I used CCcleaner to clean out the registry. For anyone using a hosts file the following entries should block it from phoning home: 127.0.0.1 winwarepro.microsoft.com 127.0.0.1 winwarepro.com 127.0.0.1 http://www.winwarepro.com It probably overwrites them, so you might have to re-add after an infection.
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No, you can remove the CMS from the cluster. The black boxes you see ahead of the instrument cluster are relays and diode blocks and such.
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The CMS is inside the cluster. The display is part of it.
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I struggled mightily with this same problem on a 1200 wing this past summer. New plugs got rid of most of it. I eventually went quite a bit richer on the mixtures than "by the book". Took care of the problem, but it still hesitates until well warmed up.
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Sta-Bil in a full tank of gasoline and then run it for a bit to get treated gas into the carburetors. I don't think premium gas offers any benefit. In fact, ethanol is a cheap way to boost the octane rating so premium might be more likely to have ethanol (bad). If you're really going to store it do as Time says, although I doubt you'll be able to kill it by spraying fogging oil down the carburetor throats. I prefer to put a shot in each plug hole and crank the engine over (plugs out and grounded) a couple turns to spread it and get excess out of the cylinder. Don't start it unless you're going to ride it. Idling for a few minutes will do more harm than good. Now, I ride pretty much every half way decent day so I just do the sta-bil and keep the motorcycle plugged to the battery tender. That way I can unplug and go. Top off the tank at the end of the ride and add sta-bil to keep treated. I keep sta-bil in all my seasonal stuff until the robins come back.
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Nice house, great garage. Congrats.
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I put sta-bil in the fuel. Top off the tank. Run it until the fuel is into the carbs. Battery on tender. Then, if we get an unexpected great day I can ride, just keep sta-bil in the fuel until spring.
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I didn't know a 2nd gen had 2 horns either. I thought you were working on a 1st gen. As hinted, it doesn't matter which of 85, 86 gets the + and -, it works either way. It's possible your diagram indicates one or the other but it's irrelevant. You can leave the original horn(s) attached. More is gooder. My wiring diagram attached.
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Just send him a check for $50,000. Have him return $10,000 with the Tahoe and keep the rest for his trouble.
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One should show +12V. The other should be grounded when you press the horn button. HOWEVER, if you still have the other horn connected they'll both show +12V unless you are blowing the horn. If both horns are unplugged only 1 should show +12V. You can get that relay at RadioShack. Tell them you need a 275-0001.
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There should be no roar from the rear end. Assuming it isn't the speedometer or cable (they have a way of casting their sounds to other parts of the bike....): If the noise is speed dependent but not load dependent (meaning accelerating or compression braking) it's almost certainly wheel bearings or tire noise.