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MiCarl

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Everything posted by MiCarl

  1. MiCarl
    It's actually a fuel mixture screw (no air screw on these). If you don't know where they are they are likely your problem. Generally get pulled for a good cleaning. They face outboard on the carburetors, in a well, next to the cover over the diaphragm. I think on the bottom side of the cap. The well may have a cover on it.
  2. MiCarl
    That sounds like a cylinder (or 2) not firing. 3&4 are holding 1&2 open, increasing the idle speed. As you start to bring them together 1&2 are closing and the idle drops because 3&4 not picking up their share of the load. Probably 3 or 4 is the culprit. I wouldn't even think about this until they're synced. Check compression. If compression is good on all 4 then you need to check for bad plug or missing spark. If all that looks good disconnect 1 coil at a time and see which cylinder(s) can be disconnected without affecting idle. If you're going to pull plug wires to do this you should insert a spare plug in the disconnected wire and ground the body to avoid damaging coils. Once you isolate the one that's not firing replace with a known good plug to double check (engine should speed up a lot if problem is in the plug). If the problem isn't resolved you have identified the carburetor which is the problem. You can try opening the mixture screw but odds are you will have to pull the carbs and re-clean this one to get what you missed first time. Before pulling them off you might want to spray starting fluid or carb cleaner around the intake boot to make sure the problem isn't a vacuum leak there. There aren't "vacuum" jets. You probably mean air jet. Could be but most likely you've got a problem with the fuel side of the idle circuit. A passage or jet not open, OR, massive vacuum leak.
  3. MiCarl
    Yes, 1 kit, 1 carb. It's not listed but I'll put it there if you want it.
  4. MiCarl
    When I set up my store I looked into that kit. The only part that seemed correct was the float bowl gasket. The float valve, jet needle and jets all have different part numbers than the V-max. The assortment of o-rings may have some that fit. The float valve may fit but have a higher flow rate. If you want that kit I can sell it to you for about $24. The Venture carburetor actually seems to share more parts with the 535 Virago. I think I can get that kit too. If you're looking for the float valve I might be able to get that if I had the numbers off your current valve. Why don't you go to my online store (http://store.thundervalleypower.com) and send an email via the "Contact Us" link and tell me exactly what you need and I'll try to help out.
  5. MiCarl
    I wouldn't break the rack apart. You can do everything necessary with the bodies and linkages in place. You can put the bowls and jet block in an ultrasonic cleaner if you like. Mostly you need to make sure all the passages are clear and the diaphragms are in good condition. The mixture screws need to come out. They may have little brass plugs over them. If you need to pull the plugs drill a small hole in them, thread in a self tapping screw (drywall screw works) and pull them. Drill carefully because you don't want to pop through and damage the mixture screw. Use a scribe or punch to mark the carburetor body where the slot in the mixture screw aligns. Then gently bottom the screw counting the turns. Record the turns and remove the screw. When you put the screw back in bottom it gently and back it out to where it was when you started. Under the screw are a spring, washer and o-ring. A hook made from a piece of stiff wire will assist in pulling the parts out. A muffin pan (I use disposable ones) is handy for organizing the parts.
  6. MiCarl
    From what I see in the shop there are plenty of riders out there who don't even know there is a front brake. They stomp on the pedal, just like in the cage.
  7. MiCarl
    Get the service manual, screw up your courage, and dig in. Pay attention as you pull them apart, take notes, take digital photos and stop and ask questions here if you're unsure how to proceed. Do not soak them in carburetor dip or let spray cleaner sit on any rubber parts. Best to only disassemble them one at a time. That way you won't get parts mixed up.
  8. MiCarl
    It happens at exactly the same instant for everyone. Spear is off by a day. The solstice will occur this month on the 21st., 17:47 UTC. Not sure what the time offset for OZ is, but the calendar there might actually read Dec. 22 at that time. His longest daylight should either be the 21st or 22nd.
  9. MiCarl
    It's slow in there weekends It's slow in there holidays Double whammy this weekend. Weeknights are a better bet.
  10. MiCarl
    Quite likely. Especially with a MKII and the electric anti-dives. My 89 won't keep up in heavy stop and go. With the fog/driving lights especially true. Why don't you list your year in your info so we know what you have?
  11. MiCarl
    The MKII 1st gens have a grease boot from the shaft to the coupler. I believe the service manual calls for that boot to be attached to the coupler with an adhesive. On mine that boot pulled the shaft out with the final drive. I ended up ruining that boot digging it out of the coupler. I didn't use adhesive on the new one.
  12. MiCarl
    Gary, The bottle with the big handle hooks to the air hose. The hose on it goes to the bleed nipple. Squeeze the trigger and it vacuums the fluid through. Way faster than a hand pump, plus there is trigger lock so you can start it and hover over the reservoir keeping it topped up. The slender bottle is designed to keep the reservoir full. Idea is you put fluid in it, invert it over the reservoir (there are a bunch of adapters so it hangs on) and open the valve. As the reservoir draws down the bottle refills it. It's for cars/trucks, not practical for motorcycle use. I am thinking that long neck might be just the ticket for filling the rear master cylinder on a 1st gen, but haven't tried it yet. Carl
  13. MiCarl
    Do you mean THIS one? Greatest thing since sliced bread.
  14. MiCarl
    The clutch is on the left, the brake is on the right. This is important! If it's the brake then fill it to the top of the window. You don't want it so full that it oozes out when you put the diaphragm back in. As the clutch wears the fluid level will RISE (opposite of brakes). If it's the clutch master cylinder only fill to the midpoint of the site glass. If it is the clutch it's likely that there is still plenty in there. Whether it's the clutch or the brake you should use DOT 4 brake fluid. You can get it at any auto parts store, Wal Mart, the gas station etc. I hope you don't have the reservoir sitting open. Very bad. Brake fluid soaks up moisture like a sponge.
  15. MiCarl
    I agree. You'll save a lot of grief if you just go ahead and pull them off for a thorough cleaning and inspection.
  16. MiCarl
    I quit going to those places after one of their "techs" noticed that my fuel injectors were dirty and recommended that I buy an over priced bottle of crap to add to the fuel tank. I thought about asking him to show me the dirty injectors on my CARBURETED engine, but ended up saying no thanks and just never going back. I also had to replace all my oil drain plugs because they were cross threaded.
  17. MiCarl
    Hey Annie! I see Bongobob sent a gift your way: HERE Just proves that VentureRiders are a sharing bunch.
  18. MiCarl
    You do need to pay attention to what the press does too. The first headline I saw had a spectacular image of a blue corkscrew ending in a perfectly proportioned spiral of blue and white that filled a large portion of the sky. Inside the article was a cell phone video of the actual event that was much less dramatic, a pinpoint of light in a tight spiral away. Clearly that first image was some sort of "artist concept" that wasn't noted as such at all.
  19. MiCarl
    Bob, congrats on being publishes. I have a suggested title for your January submission: "72 degrees, sunny and butterflies all month!"
  20. MiCarl
    I think that box is too thick to fit on top of the stock box. I have one similar size replacing the stock box and it pushes the false tank up a bit. Nice looking box. How about putting it above the air box?
  21. MiCarl
    I just got off the phone with Yama Mama. She said she's had too much going on to get on the computer but will be back soon.
  22. MiCarl
    I'm largely with you. My biggest beef with my 1st gen is how much breeze it blocks. I really hate that for most riding. On the other hand when I'm moving down the superslab at 70 and it's cold I'm really glad it's there. Clearly I don't own enough motorcycles.
  23. MiCarl
    I'm sorry you got nasty emails. I, for one, knew nothing of you or your son until you posted it in this thread. The point of my previous post was to criticize bureaucrats who might (dare I say likely?) determine that it's got four wheels so it's not a motorcycle, and that it doesn't have the required equipment for a passenger car, therefore......... Personally I don't care what anyone rides/drives no matter however many wheels it has. However, if the state of PA decides to classify it as a tractor, please refrain from towing your hay rake on public roads during rush hour.
  24. MiCarl
    How does maybe sound? I've got a disclaimer on the site that I ship U.S. only. However, if someone wants to be the guinea pig I'm game.
  25. MiCarl
    You know, I grew up with it coming 'round the back. My first wife beat me into having it come over the top. It didn't occur to me until I saw the video Freebird posted - The house I grew up in had the TP holders recessed into the wall, with a curved back that pretty much matched the roll. When fed over the top pulling on the end tended to bind the roll and you'd get 1 square. Feeding it around back caused pulling to lift the roll off the back plate so it didn't bind. My current wife also likes to have it fed over top. She also thinks it's ok to leave the roll with just the square that is glued to the cardboard tube so long as there is a spare roll in the cabinet (unless I'm the one that does that, then it's evil). Personally I'm happy when there is enough to do the job, no matter which way it hangs.
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