MiCarl
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Everything posted by MiCarl
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I haven't tested them but I've always presumed that if they were all they're cracked up to be shops and OEMs wouldn't be investing in spin balancers. They'd just throw a handful in when mounting the tire. They'd save on the equipment, the floor space and the labor time to spin them and install the weights. Plus, they wouldn't have to maintain and calibrate the balancers.
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Actually, the SyncPro has NO accuracy (there isn't even a scale on it). What is needed for a good sync is sensitivity. The SyncPro is way more sensitive than cheap gauges or mercury sticks. Are the cheap gauges sensitive enough to do a good job? I think so. I've made a lot of engines purr like a sewing machine with them. I did worry that over time the cheap mechanical gauges seemed to lose their calibration, at least at 0.
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Gary, Does this have a pick up for the plug wire or is it necessary to connect it at the coil? Thanks, Carl
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I don't think that is a mercury replacement. It's the refill for the SyncPro which is not a mercury manometer.
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I believe it does have hydraulic self-adjustment. They will bleed down, should only take a few minutes to do it. You might not notice though until the engine cools down. I think they should also pump back up in a few seconds. I'd worry that one was sticking if it was taking longer.
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If the bubbles were all the same calibration wouldn't be necessary. That would require a lot more expensive calibration and if you dumped the fluid out (it's possible) you'd never get it right. On the mechanical gauge set I have (looks just like the picture earlier in the thread) the restrictors are little valves in the lines. Seems like every time I used it I had to readjust 2 valves because either a gauge wouldn't move or was bouncing all over the place. The SyncPro has little orifices that are pushed into the hoses.
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Motion Pro Hydraulic Brake Bleeder
MiCarl replied to Chiro's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
I haven't used it, but I think I previously had something similar. I wasn't very pleased with it. THIS one isn't too bad. and THIS ONE rules. Just put it on, lock the trigger and you can stay at the reservoir keeping it full. Fast too. Need an air compressor to use it though. If you sign up to receive Harbor Freight email coupons about twice a month you'll get a coupon for 15 or 20% off your purchase. -
Here's another one for you: Today I opened the phone bill and find a charge billed for HBS billing services for my service with Streaming Flix LLC. Apparently Streaming Flix posts all kinds of crap on the internet and get you to enter your phone number and address. In the very fine print at the bottom you are giving them permission to bill your phone bill $14.95/month for whatever their service is. They'd got my wife.
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Normal is just like me. Everyone else is abnormal.
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Because the 4 tubes do not go to a single source. Each tube has it's own chamber of liquid. What the gauge is measuring is the pressure relative to the air bubble above the liquid. The adjustment screws change the pressures on the air bubbles. Because the bubbles are of varying sizes the accuracy changes at different levels of vacuum - requiring a calibration for each use. I use the Motion Pro SyncPro in my shop. While calibrating it requires and extra step, it has several advantages: 1) Since each chamber is isolated there is much less risk of drawing the fluid out of the device. 2) Because of reason 1 they can use a very low density liquid (compared to mercury) which results in a very sensitive gauge. The really big drawback to the SyncPro is it doesn't give a pressure reading (just comparisons). If you use a mechanical gauge or mercury stick and see all your cylinders are pulling 2 CM HG you know you have cylinder(s) that aren't firing. That's not so obvious with the SyncPro. I used to use the mechanical gauge set from J.C. Whitney. Over time I noticed that the gauges were not accurate - they didn't all end up back at 0. I was recalibrating them often to make sure I got good results. The other problem with this set is it seemed I needed to readjust the vacuum restrictors at every use. So on balance I think with the SyncPro my set up time isn't any more than with the mechanical gauges. It's definitely much easier to read. If you decide you want a SyncPro I think you'll find it cheaper in my store than anywhere else: Thunder Valley Powersports. Remember to use discount code VentureRider at checkout to save 15%
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And shopping on the internet may not be the way to do it either. I shopped my auto policy every year for years and the quotes all came in pretty close to my current coverage. By chance I had a conversation with an agent that ended up in my Auto and Homeowners being sliced in half.
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The Harbor Freight trailer doesn't have a rear shackle on the spring. The spring slides against a metal "pad" and is captured by a bolt under it. Clatters like an old dump truck full of loose tools. A piece of heater hose on that bolt and a piece of old inner tube under that pad will quiet it right down.
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It's the other way around. Horsepower doesn't drop unless either torque or RPM drop. In most torque curves torque peaks and begins to fall as RPMs continue to rise. Horsepower generally continues to rise until the torque drops faster than the RPM increases. Generally speaking torque ~ acceleration. Horsepower ~ ability to overcome drag (wind, tires etc.). HP limits top speed, torque is how fast you get to top speed.
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Ben, If I'd known those boxes were that reasonably priced I might have gone a different route! I used the same trailer you have there. Took the extra leaf out of the springs and narrowed it to fit the box I planned to use. I think I have close to $800 in mine (and I got lots of free welding). You should come in at a similar price point with a lot less of your labor. Carl
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As usual Gary types faster'n me:doh:
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HP=Torque*RPM/5250 So all your torque curves have HP=Torque at 5250RPM. Think of it as a spinning shaft lifting a weight on a rope. Forgetting the units a torque of torque (T) turning the shaft will lift the weight (W) a distance (X) in a revolution. The work done is W*X If you keep the torque the same but double the speed the weight will go 2*X in the same amount of time. Your work is W*(2*X). If you keep the shaft speed the same but double the torque you can lift twice the weight (2*W) * distance. So your work is (2*W)*X. W*(2*X)=(2*W)*X HP measures the ability to do work. You can get equivalent work done by either varying the Torque or the speed (RPM). The 5250 is a constant to make HP roughly equivalent to what a standard horse can do. If you used 4000 it might be mule power (MP) instead of HP. Of Course a constant of 500 would be GP (Gerbil Power).
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You need to do something about those holes. Not only do they reduce the effectiveness of the slide but they bleed extra air leaning out your mixture.
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throttle return spring
MiCarl replied to a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Not snapping closed is a bad thing. It's probably not the return springs. One thing I see quite commonly is too little free play in the cables. This causes them to bind and the throttle to not snap closed. Your grip should turn about 1/8" before the throttles start to move. Another possibility is the grip itself binding to the bar or not enough clearance between the grip and the switch housing. -
You might want to check on the requirements for your endorsement. A trike may not be allowed for the road test or may not have the maneuverability to pass the test. In other words: You might need to test on two wheels.
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throttle return spring
MiCarl replied to a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Each carburetor has it's own return spring. Yamaha doesn't sell them separately from the carburetor body. The spring you referred to is part of the assembly where the cruise ties into the throttle cables. It's probably to keep a cable from going slack. -
That's the reason for the snorkel sticking out of the roof - fresher air. It's got a trap at the bottom with a small drain hole through the floor. The other vent is a solar exhaust vent, it's supposed to move 700 cubic feet per hour, more when moving (it's cover is shaped to create a venturi). I'm more concerned about road noise and body drumming than the pipes. The dog box portion walls (interior and exterior) have 1" of styrofoam insulation bonded to the interior and exterior panel in the hopes of reducing drumming. I'm hoping the insulation will also prevent it turning into a greenhouse when parked.
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In Michigan if a vehicle is six or more years old and worth less than $2,500 you can obtain a title by filing an Ownership Certification FORM TR-205 with the Secretary of State. They have the State Police check the VIN and if it's not reported stolen they'll issue a title. Took about 20 minutes when I did it.
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Remains to be seen how everything works out. Got it done after the riding season was over. She's been around the block in it.
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Was this the one you were looking for?
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I sell them in my store WITH o-rings included Thunder Valley Powersports Carburetor Holders. A bit more than sirius charges but have the o-rings. When you use your 15% discount code (VentureRider) and compare shipping charges it becomes real close and you don't have to worry about buying overpriced Yamaha o-rings or getting ones from the hardware store that don't quite work right.