Jump to content

MiCarl

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    3,442

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by MiCarl

  1. MiCarl
    Venture's don't have a plenum...... The plate the manual refers to is something flat to set the carburetor throats on before you tighten the bracket screws to make sure the throttle shafts are aligned. Misaligned shafts can cause problems. That's really only an issue if you separate the pair from one side. The connection right to left is a linkage so there is not an alignment issue. You'll have to separate left from right to pull the float bowls off. You shouldn't have to separate the 1-2 or 3-4 carburetor pairs. The service manual will also tell you not to open the pilot mixture screws. Don't believe that either, you can't properly clean them without pulling mixture screws. Mark the carburetor body in line with the screw slot then gently bottom the screw, counting the number of turns until it bottoms. Record the number of turns then remove the screw. Under there are a spring, a tiny washer and a tiny o-ring. You need to fish them all out. Now you can clean! When you put the screw back in gently bottom it then back it out the amount you recorded earlier. Do not soak the carburetors in a carb dip. It will damage the seals on the butterfly shafts. Replacing them is a really big job. They're hard to get, but I know a guy......
  2. MiCarl
    You don't need to "re-wire" the bike. You need to splice in a pigtail with connector where the converter box currently connects. You cannot easily run a 5 wire trailer from a 4 wire connection. You'd need some sort of logic system to watch the wires and decipher what was going on. Then you'd want a power wire so back to 5.......... Yes. The only thing you can realistically do with your current lights is to rewire the stop/run lights and ditch the amber ones. That's more work than simply connecting a 5 wire pigtail to the harness, under the seat, right where the converter currently plugs in. I'm wondering if the real issue here isn't that you lack confidence in your ability so you'd rather tackle the trailer than risk screwing up the scoot. Perfectly understandable. The better option would be to get a little help from someone that knows what he's doing. Then you learn some things and build your confidence for next time. You might even get me to make the trip if there's a hint of pizza.......
  3. MiCarl
    Gary, he's trying to go the other way. He has a 5 wire trailer but the bike already has the 4 wire converter. Stray, to clarify my earlier post - Your motorcycle has a 5 wire system, just like the trailer. That converter under your seat is so you can connect a 4 wire trailer. All you need is a 5 pin plug (to match the trailer) wired into the motorcycle system. I suggested wiring it into the harness where the converter connects just because it helps you find the right wires. Also, keeps all the connections together.
  4. MiCarl
    You don't rewire the trailer. You just need a 5 wire plug for the bike wired into the harness where your 4 wire converter connects. I'd leave the converter and 4 wire plug just in case I ever wanted to pull a 4 wire trailer.
  5. MiCarl
    I've never ridden a 2nd gen (I'm afraid I'd have to buy one) but here is what I know/guess. - Rider position on a 2nd gen is lower, reducing the center of gravity and improves stability - Foot position on a 2nd gen is forward, more comfortable but reduces control - Second Gen has more trail (guess). Improves stability at high speed but makes low speed turns more sluggish and contributes to a "top heavy" feel. I know that when I ride with 2nd gens they have trouble keeping up in a tight turn and tend to go wide. That's where I get my suspicion that they have more trail.
  6. MiCarl

    Fork Wrench

    MiCarl replied to Freebird's topic in Watering Hole

    That's not a fork wrench. It's a steering stem nut wrench. Might want to rename the threads so in the future someone has a hope of finding them.....
  7. MiCarl
    It's left side in Canada. South of the border that's called right side.
  8. MiCarl
    It's easy to tell a 1st Gen Venture. It starts out looking like a speck on your windshield. How you know it isn't a speck is it'll keep getting smaller until it completely disappears.
  9. MiCarl
    Last I looked used ones in half way decent question were going on eBay for $200+. That's each half. New ones (when available) are in the neighborhood of $800/half. New ones do have paint and striping, which is worthless when they're not the correct color combination. I think if he were to provide a product that was near paint ready at $300 including shipping he'd be a very busy man. I don't know weight wise what they'd be in carbon fiber. I personally would be reluctant to put them on if they weighed much more than the ABS ones.
  10. MiCarl
    The tips are decorative, held on with a spring. Can't imagine there is a hole there but just remove them for the inspection. If you mean at the front of the muffler, right where it narrows to the pipe for the collector box, I believe there is a drain hole there.
  11. MiCarl
    Correct. I get them with this: Craftsman 18mm Spark Plug Socket
  12. MiCarl
    Yamaha Part # 26H-88153-00-00. $22.46 at www.cheapcycleparts.com. Since I don't have any cassette tapes I decided to just let weather hit the player.
  13. MiCarl
    Used mine today to set my mixtures. Worked like a champ!
  14. MiCarl
    Chains and de-icing gear? You're getting a dusting, not a blizzard. Anyhow, it's global warming. Blame Al Gore (He's a Southerner).
  15. MiCarl
    That's the whole reason they stayed together. Everyone afraid he might get custody of Mikey.
  16. MiCarl
    No engine noise, so it's a success. All the parts are available at RadioShack: 274-284 1/8" Stereo Phone Plug (2 Pack) 278-513 50-Ft. Audio Cable 271-1105 47 ohm 1/2W 5% Carbon Film Resistor pk/5 271-1126 10K ohm 1/2W 5% Carbon Film Resistor pk/5 I also used some heat shrink tubing and electrical tape. I connected the cable to the motorcycle at the passenger head set jack because it is easy to get to. Motorcycle pin out available in THIS THREAD. The headphone jack on my GPS is not effected by the GPS volume control (of course there is 0 documentation). My conclusion is that it is a line level output, although it will drive headphones. With the 10K resistor it booms through the intercom pretty good. Replacing the 10K with a 100K resistor was a bit on the weak side. With a transistor radio I can easily over drive the intercom input with the 10K resistor, which was not an issue with the 100K. Overall, a 15K resistor (I didn't have one to test) might be a better choice. My recommendation for anyone trying this would be to start with a 15K resistor and the GPS volume turned down. If you can't get enough volume turning the GPS up fall back to the 10K. The colors in the diagram match the RadioShack cable, with the black being the braid. The goofy thing on the left is the phone plug.
  17. MiCarl
    As I recall the MKIs do not have it. The MKIIs do, and I believe the 2nd gens do. Based on the number of MKIs that have ruined splines I'd guess that the engineers at Yamaha decided they needed to keep dirt out, grease in, or both.
  18. MiCarl
    I've got a solution that seems to be working. GPS lady comes over the intercom without interfering with the normal intercom operation. For some reason she does not mute the radio, however if I plug a transistor radio into the cord it will mute the motorcycle radio. Apparently the synthesized voice doesn't have the right characteristics to mute the radio. It does have enough gain though that it comes in clear even with the radio turned up. Once I confirm that it doesn't pick up engine noise I'll post the drawing.
  19. MiCarl
    Gary, the tool is made of 5/8" rod. I can measure mine at the shop today if you like. As mentioned you can use a short 1/2" bolt with a couple nuts jammed onto it and some extensions to hold the damper. When you disassemble you essentially use the outer fork tube as a slide hammer to pull the bushings out. You want to make sure to not hammer closed because there are delicate parts at the bottom. Those delicate parts are part of the oil lock assembly. You need to pay close attention to how the spring washers go back on. I hope you're not trying to do the forks from the 88 I sold you. They're bent.
  20. MiCarl
    The oil seal is bonded to the coupler. You'll ruin it removing. If it were me I'd pull it apart and lube it. It's probably been 20 years. You'll need a new oil seal though.
  21. MiCarl
    I'd thought about that but it seems like it'd be much more complicated. Especially when you consider you'd have to damp the thing somehow so it didn't cut out between words.
  22. MiCarl
    I want to tie the audio output from a navigation system to the audio system of the motorcycle. It needs to mute the radio when it talks. Since we always use headsets the audio through the headsets is the ideal solution. Essentially, I want it to act like a 3rd mic on the intercom. That way it mutes the radio and we hear it through the headsets. I'm wondering if I can't piggy back it onto one of the headset mics using a circuit similar to the one in the drawing. Sure would appreciate input from the electronics wizards.
  23. MiCarl
  24. MiCarl
    So long as the gauges are accurate it'll be great. Clipboard mount is a nice touch. It'll behave better for you if you put the valves or other restrictor at the motorcycle end. The extra air volume between the restriction and the gauge will dampen the flutter.
  25. MiCarl
    I still think it's probably just the dogs not lining up. If the clutch isn't in there might not be enough drag to let the gears shift around. Have your helper hold the input shaft while you turn the rear wheel and shift at the same time.
×
×
  • Create New...