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MiCarl

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Everything posted by MiCarl

  1. MiCarl
    Everything that comes off with the wheel stays on for tire mounting and balancing.
  2. MiCarl
    Me too. You shouldn't have to turn off to do it, just tapping it again resets the counters (at least on 1st gen). Me too. Come to think of it, I'm always overriding the thing one way or the other. I don't think I'd disable it though. It does prevent me from initiating the dreaded "eventual left".
  3. MiCarl
    Only thing I can add is that in the stock configuration the battery probe does have a resistor in line with it. If it's got the "bypass" resistor in it and a probe it may not read correctly.
  4. MiCarl
    I buy it in a gallon jug and there is some left over after an oil and filter change. Since a gallon = 4 quarts I put it at 3.X quarts. **EDIT** Just opened the owners manual. It says 4 quarts for oil and filter change. It's wrong, that is too much. You need to buy 4 quarts but you won't put all of the last one in.
  5. MiCarl
    You might want to use an end of the old cable to make sure the speedometer isn't seized up. If it is you'll snap the new cable too.
  6. MiCarl
    Speedometer and odometer are 100% mechanical on 1st gen. Tachometer is electronic. Almost certain to be a broken cable (they break inside where you can't see it). Unscrew the cable at the wheel and pull the inner cable out. If you don't get a piece with 2 square ends it's broken.
  7. MiCarl
    If it's ok with the sync gauge attached then falls apart when you replace the vacuum caps and the line to the pressure sensor you problem is somewhere in those things.
  8. MiCarl
    Way Way Way out of sync can cause that. One of the butterflies holding the whole bunch open. Should be able to see if that's it looking down through the air box.
  9. MiCarl
    I know someone that pulls a full size pop up camper with his wing. He has electric brakes on it. I looked into it for my doggy motorcycle trailer. Bottom line was it adds huge expense and weight to the axle. When it was all said and done I decided to go without. I think my trailer weighs 150-200 and I put in a 60 lb dog. Don't even notice it when stopping.
  10. MiCarl
    Yamaha doesn't sell the seals separately from the carburetor body. There is a guy (who specializes in XJ parts Rocket) I know that sells them. If you need some I'll get you his info.
  11. MiCarl
    Loosen the banjo bolt at the master cylinder 1/4 turn. Slowly squeeze the lever. Close the bolt before you release the lever. Repeat a few times. Air can get trapped there and it'll never build pressure. You want to have a good wad of towels around everything when you do this, it's messy.
  12. MiCarl
    I'm wondering how you know it's burning oil and how you know it's cylinder 1?
  13. MiCarl
    Idle increasing hot is an indication of lean. A little of that is normal. Your posts sound like you're having trouble dialing in an idle at any temp. If it wants to idle high, then you dial it back and suddenly the rpm drops like a rock and it stalls that is probably an air leak. One place you might not have checked for a leak - the butterfly shaft seals. They are the seals on the throttle shafts where they pass through the carburetor body.
  14. MiCarl
    Dots are connections. I did not use the Us where wires don't connect. They just cross each other. No diodes. Only resistors (audio is AC). The 47 ohm resistors simulate a stereo headset load. The purpose is to protect the output amp on the GPS box, although the power levels are low enough it's probably not an issue. They do bleed off most of the output power of the GPS, without them you'd need more than 10K ohms on the 3rd resistor. As far as "burn"ing it to ground, that's what the braid on the cable is. You are correct that the isolation transformer (or the motorcycle intercom system if the transformer isn't used) completes one audio channel a second time. The 10K resistor severely limits the power pushed into the mic circuit on the intercom. Condenser mics produce a tiny fraction (on the order of 1/10,000) of the power needed for headphones. Running all that power into the mic circuit would certainally result in distortion and probably damage the intercom circuitry. With the 10K resistor on the parallel circuit that GPS audio channel sees 46.78 Ohms load rather than the 47 ohms on the other channel. Negligible to the GPS and actually less than the 5% tollerance on the 47 ohm resistor anyhow. The isolation transformer separates the GPS ground from the motorcycle ground. This is necessary because the noise put on the GPS ground by the charging circuit gets amplified some 10,000 times by the intercom. In other words, it's really loud! BTW, if you make sure to have the matching transformer on the leg that goes to the tip of the plug your cable will work with a mono source. If it's on the other leg (to the first ring) it won't pick up audio from a mono source. Anyhow, make it just like the diagram. Try it before you seal all the components up. The idea is to have the GPS audio just about the same level as you get from your mics. You might need to change that 10K resistor up or down to get it matched. Otherwise you might have to turn the intercom volume up so high that the passenger blows your brains out when she talks or vice versa. My best guess though is that the 10K will be just fine. On mine there is about 18" of cable from the passenger headset plug to the resistors and isolation transformer. That puts that package of components under the seat. Then there is a longer cable to the headphone plug that connects to the GPS. The individual components have heat shrink over them and are folded back over the cable. There is heat shrink over the whole bundle. This results in a package about 3/4" in diameter and 2" long.
  15. MiCarl
    I think I'll be doing more waving and less hand shaking this year......
  16. MiCarl
    Don, I question your sanity. The project you're describing sounds perfect for January or February, not riding season (which just started!). You've already gone through the pain of patching it together for the latest upgrade, why not wait 'till the snow flies for the rework? Just thinking you shouldn't be hunched over a computer when you should be getting saddle sores.
  17. MiCarl
    I did make it for a 1st gen but I'd think it would work on a 2nd gen. It essentially piggybacks on the headset mic and the 2nd gen uses the same headsets. I'm more concerned the different model of GPS (I have a Navigon) would have a different output level necessitating a different resister. The lady on mine (only 1 voice in English) doesn't trip the radio mute except for the end of the word "destination". Apparently that circuitry on the 1st gen is only sensitive to lower pitches. That's a bit of a drawback, but unless the radio is really cranked I can tell what she says. Right now I really don't have time to make one. Catch me late in the fall and you just might talk me into making one.
  18. MiCarl
    I sell new Stators. The Vendor does not claim them to be high output or upgrade so I assume they're 30 amp. LINK. $137.18 with your venturerider.org discount.
  19. MiCarl
    That seems too little. 3 is probably closer. You didn't. Too much oil makes the mixture rich, you are lean. (See below) What gauges? Yes. It won't run right with open vacuum ports. Open vacuum ports let in extra air making it lean and causing the idle to hang. No. Covering the intake makes the mixture richer. Since covering it improves running you are too lean with it open.
  20. MiCarl
    http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/mcy/1670429794.html This might be a pretty good deal.
  21. MiCarl
    Symptoms of lean condition. The hanging idle screams air leak.
  22. MiCarl
    $400 at Sierra with mount and antenna. They require dual mode headsets, not the cheap condenser mic models. Add 2 (low end, dual mode) headsets at $136 each. $672 ready to use. I ride with people that have J&M CB radios. They seem to work very well.
  23. MiCarl
    #60 and #61 go at the bottom of the windshield, above and just outboard of the headlamp. They attach the windshield to the fairing stay. Your windshield should have 2 pair of holes that they fit right into. Rubber points down.
  24. MiCarl
    Picture looks like he's got long hair. He needs the long leads and the collar needs to be snug. Our previous Lab used to sometimes run through the fence (PetSafe brand). Then one day the collar failed. I sent the collar back to PetSafe to be repaired (Their service has always been excellent and reasonable). While it was gone though I needed another collar. Went to the pet store where the only thing I could find ran on watch batteries and cost an arm and a leg. I'd resigned myself but as I turned toward the check out something caught my eye. There in a plain white corrugated cardboard box was a collar that ran on 9V batteries. There was a small label on the box that read "for stubborn dogs". It was less than $20! He tried dashing through the boundary with that collar exactly once. Our current dog has tried the boundary just once too.
  25. MiCarl
    Be careful on the "tighten it down real good" part. I don't have the book in front of me but I believe the torque spec is 7.2 lb-ft. 7.2 lb-ft is "snug". Go any more and you risk breaking the bolt or pulling the threads out of the engine case, neither of which is fun to fix. I've never had a properly torqued fastener back out even with anti-seize on it. I don't have a problem using it on any fastener that DOES NOT require loc-tite. That 6 O'clock screw on the middle gear cover lives in an oil bath, I wouldn't bother with anti-seize there.
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