MiCarl

For those of you looking to try Linux but need Windows programs look into the WINE library for Linux. WINE gives you the libraries you need to run quite a few windows programs. Last I looked, and it's been awhile, WINE only supported through Windows XP which was fine for me because I haven't got new software since Windows 2000. That might have changed since then.

I was able to do it but it took me 2 steps. 1) I uploaded the picture and saved the post. 2) I edited the post, put the cursor where I wanted the picture, then chose Insert existing attachment from the pull down on the bottom right.

hmmmmmm Trying now.

Looking at the Pirelli web site the only 15" Night Dragon rear tires they're showing are the 180/70 and 200/70. If you're finding a 170/80 it might be old. You don't have to worry about tire flex because your clearance problem is at the drive shaft housing, not at the road where the tire flexes. A 170 might just fit but the wider tires definitely won't. There is also the problem of getting the tire between the drive hub and swing arm, although you can force a bit wider tire in there if you deflate it. And yes, in theory a 170 is 20mm wider than a 150. And yes, the different manufacturers measure differently. Consider putting on the Pirelli MT 66 Route, it's available in the size you need. When I had my shop I installed a lot of them and my customers liked them.

STATE WITH NO ELECTIRCITY ORDERS EVERYONE TO DRIVE CARS THAT RUN ON ELECTRICITY

You don't need the tool to check them, only to replace shims if they're out of spec. The tool you need is distributed by K&L Supply, catalog number 32-3462. I'd be shocked if your local dealer isn't set up to sell their products. If they won't cooperate try the independent shops.

I'm surprised China is #1 . I guess the Russians are too busy working on the election.

Unfortunately it's hard to find a product that May Contain Bolts.

Oil on the threads isn't the running problem. Your valve cover gasket is leaking and oil is pooling around the plugs. Oil gets on the threads as you remove them. Needing choke to run is a symptom of a fuel system issue. Check for vacuum leaks. Put in a good dose of carburetor cleaner (Sea-foam, gumout etc.). Ride it like you stole it, that might clear up the issue.

Tire manufacturers tell you never to mix them, unless the OEM specifies it. The different handling characteristics can cause problems when mixed if the bike isn't designed for it. Personally, I'd stick with bias tires on both ends. If you're only going to replace the front it's probably a good idea to match the rear type.

I'm fairly confident the R/R on a Venture senses the voltage (+) on the same wire that charges the battery. So a poor connection would result in voltage at the R/R to be higher than the battery, in other words it under charges. It is possible though that the R/R senses the voltage (-) to its case, rather than the pigtail to the harness. If so, a poor connection between the chassis and R/R case might cause over voltage. Wouldn't hurt to make sure the case and chassis are clean and the mounting screws are good and tight. For that matter, it never hurts to check all the connections. Solid state gizmos can do weird things with poor connections.

Cruise control module. It's behind the headlight. As I recall a bad switch on the clutch or brakes will cause the "SET" light to flash briefly then the "RES" light comes on.

Your post implies that when you turn the cruise on all the lights operate properly. Is that correct? What are the symptoms when you try to set the cruise? Does the "SET" light come on? If not you need to grab a multi-meter and check the clutch and both brake switches. If you don't find a problem with them the module may be defective.

The whine is how we perceive the rattle of the straight cut gear set Yamaha used. Depending on the gear lash the volume, pitch and rpm of the whine will vary. Since manufacturing isn't perfect any time you switch one or both gears you're likely to change the lash. It sounds like you got one that works well for you.