1BigDog
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Everything posted by 1BigDog
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Those two little holes are for the wind deflectors, one on each side.
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I dont know what you mean....... I dont have ideas, I have flashbacks......
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Try A Deka battery. Its a good heavy duty battery with no flimsy battery posts. Its the EXT20L. Josh at Bohannan is a good kid to deal with. http://www.bohannonbattery.com/html/deka.html
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They say that dogs resemble their owners...so what happened here???? No way Tom is that cute.......
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I want what Charlie's been drinking, or toking, or inhaling, or......
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After saying last year that im done with mods to the bike, some fools here come up with more parts to sell us and we, like sheep, shell out bucks for them. A simple tail light mod, like adding 2-30 red led strips to the rear as a run/brake light combo turned onto Sky Doc's R1 caliper conversion, which turned into replacing all brake/clutch lines with SS lines which turned into rebuilding the rear caliper and new HH pads, and only the best for me, buying that new 5.1 brake fluid which turned into replacing the rear valve cover gasket which turned into replacing the spark plugs which turned into flushing the cooling system which turned into adding Carbon Ones crash bar bracket, which is turning into 2 more smaller red led lights on the back to replace a burned out one, which will lead to an oil change and rear fluid change. Add a wash and wax and im done for good....... Yea Right!!
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Mike, Space Coast Plating in Melborne is another good shop. They do bikes and show cars.
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The connectors are slim. The auto connectors I had found were kinda thin for my tastes, meaning the connectors themselves were made with very thin material. I had a heck of a time finding the right pins but International trucks had the right gauge and proper pin. Im sure the automotive pin would work as well. It was just my preference to go with a heavier pin. You can also attach those auto pins then hardwire the pin into place or just hardwire the wire to the pin itself. The 3 middle wires are 12 g and the pos and neg are 10 g. Biggest thing to remember is to make sure your hooking up the right wire to the right pin. Make a wrong connection and POOF!! Mark everything and draw a diagram.
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Yea, put a block of wood under where you drill or you just might drill into your tire. Tape idea is good. Make sure your holes are lined up perfectly. Centerpunching them is a good idea too. You dont get a second chance. I prefer to use a step drill bit when drilling into sheet metal.
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And you never called.........
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Always have ridden with a half helmet, even back in the 70's and a 3/4 when it was real cold. Helmet is on at least 99.9% of the time. Tourmaster Transition jacket most of the time unless its really hot out there. Sometimes just a tee shirt if local but full gear on the road. Alpinestar Ridge boots most of the time and old HD boots local. Diamond Gusset Jeans. Tourmaster gloves in the winter and an air flow type leather glove other times. I dont wear shorts on a bike....for everyone elses safety....
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A while ago I had lost my push to talk button off of the trunk. I found one at a junkyard and all was well. Well, it seemes to have flown off somewhere and I need a replacement, so, if anyone here happens to have one laying around.........
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Sure glad you walked away from that one so to speak.
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:smile5:For those planning on coming to the Meet and Eat here in Jacksonville FL on May 8th, heres a link to the new thread as there has been a location change. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/sh...ad.php?t=47012
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Another Clutch Slipping
1BigDog replied to craigatcsi's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
One thing I havent seen mentioned here are the clutch spring bolts. Do not re-use the old ones. Spring (no pun intended) for new bolts. I did the Barnett upgrade about 6 years ago using Barnetts carbon fiber discs and the stock original metal plates. Thought I could get away with re-using the original bolts since the torque setting is so low even though it was recommended at the time to replace the bolts. Well, one of the bolt heads snapped off in the basket (no, I didnt overtighten) and spent another 1/2 hour with a drill and easy-outs and a lot of luck. I ended up buying new stainless steel allen head bolts, which worked out fine. -
Fork alignment question....
1BigDog replied to 1BigDog's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Thanks for the reply Carl. The fork tubes are level with the top tree so that cant be it. Since no one else has anything to offer i'll just figure it out for myself. -
Last spring I greased my front forks. Put it all back together and everything looked good. A while later I had to trailler the bike and it was loaded with the bike on its sidestand and the front wheel turned left against the bulkhead. We strapped it down and only hauled it about 5 miles at low speed. Afterward it seems that the handlebars and the driving light assembly is tweaked to the right about 1/4 1/2". I never noticed that before. Sitting on the bike its either 1/4 lower on the right or 1/4 higher on the left. So, is there a procedure that I can do to make sure I line everything up right? Right now the bike is up on the lift. I plan on moving the fairing away and remove the top tree and check the pinch bolts. Any other ideas?
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Im the "fellow" George is referring to. We spent much time on the phone while George patiently walked me through the possible issues. The man knows his stuff. I will say this: take your battery to a shop to have it tested. Its very possible that you have a bad cell. One test I (we) did was to jiggle the plug to the regulator (the lower fairing was removed) and check the meter. The meter fluctuated widely, indicating a bad connection. The plug had to be disassembled and I found a burnt positive wire. The plug was partially melted at this point. The other wires also had very loose connections. You cannot replace this plug unless you buy a new harness. And thats several hundred bucks. What I ended up doing was to very carefully mark each wire. with their corresponding holes. Warning: Mess this part up and you will fry your charging system. I made a diagram before I cut the wires indicating the proper placement, using a different unique marking for each individual wire. I then clipped each wire, drilled out the back of the plug to remove the locking mechanism from them, slid the drilled out plug back up the harness, along with the proper heat shrink tube, thoroughly soldered new wires and pins on the harness wires. 12 gauge for the three in the center and 10 gauge for pos & neg. I then attached the regulator, carefully sliding each individual pin in place, first coating each pin with a fine coat of dialectric grease. Then I slid the plug down over the whole assembly and used RTV sealant to completely fill in the open holes in the back of the plug where the wiring went into. I wiped some RTV around the base of the plug where it meets the reg/rec and then used a cable tie wrapped around the whole unit to secure it together. Now, as far as heat shrink wrap tubes go, I used one tube on each individual wire to completely cover each solder joint, then I used one large piece to cover the whole assembly, stretching it over the base of the plug too. It sure is watertight now. The proper factory type pins were hard to find. I was able to locate the three 12 gauge wires with the right type pins from International Harvestor trucks. For the 10 Gauge pos/neg wires I used some gold pins I had. I wasnt happy with their thickness so I "tinned" the whole connector with solder to "thicken the part", hopefully making it a little heavier duty in the process. One other thing not mentioned here is the possibility of a bad starter relay. Its located behind the left side battery cover. Mine was badly corroded. My 99 electric issues had haunted me for many months. I ultimetely replaced just about all of the possible relays and dialectrically greased, after cleaning them with contact cleaner, all plug in connectors. From the buckeye stator, to a new regulator, starter relay, sidestand switch, new ignition switch, etc. From my point of view, the bike is now 11 years old and things are going to go bad and since I was not going to replace the bike I went ahead and invested in some new parts. Buying them online from places like Partshark made it way cheaper then getting the parts from your dealer. The stator and regulator should be replaced as a unit. Like George said, check and clean all of your connections for the battery cables. A resistance test should also be done on the cables to make sure there isnt a break somewhere in there, or maybe corroded so badly that its causing problems. Good luck....
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:thumbsup2::thumbsup2:
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Prayers sent for all involved. Hope all goes well.
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Mini a moderator?? More like an antagonizer..........
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High Output Stator from Buckeye Performance
1BigDog replied to Joopster55's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
The Buckeye stator is a quality piece of equipment. Mines coming up on 2 years and it works fine. You have to hard wire it in as the plastic connection is a weak link. Good thing about it is the wires are about a foot longer than stock. I was able to route it up alongside the left side of the battery and solder them standing up. One other thing for those considering the upgrade: replace your rectifier at the same time and check those connections in the rectifier plug. Mine were loose and one was burnt, forcing me to rewire the plug with new connections. -
My set came Thursday. Nice work, Larry!!
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Havent seen anything from Screamstone in quite awhile. PM's go unanswered. Hope all is well with Rob. Check in here bro...
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Deb, go with the Deka Battery from Bohannan. Would I lie?????