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bikenut

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Everything posted by bikenut

  1. bikenut
    On my bike I had the light bar bracket on to let me remove the fairing and with the bar bracket I also had the same thing yours looked like. A freind that is a body man fixed my fender and can not tell anymore. But Mine did it when I had to hit both brakes hard to try to stop when someone pulled out in front of me when I was going 60. Just missed the back side of the car but my Front fender had damage from the light bar being to low . Took off the bracket and no problems with 30,000 miles on the bike since. My bracket in on my work bench now Good luck
  2. bikenut
    If you plan to use the Branett system then you need to get the heavy duty spring they have now for the ventures. Branett Part # 501-82-06023 This info came from Branett because I cantacted them to see if they had better springs. They said it will increase your clutch pull about 10 % I did not notice any change. I just install them in my bike with the clutch upgrade by adding a full friction plate were the 1/2 was and now we have hook up. I pull a trailer 95 % of the time . works great now. Good luck
  3. bikenut
    Mine was the head that you use to change everything was bad. Did the same as yours and mine was under warrenty so it was covered. Mine has been fine ever since they replaced the head. It was a two day turn around because they had to send the head into the radio company to make sure it was the problem. They said it was bad and sent a complete new one. Yamaha only covers it for 2 years and the radio company covers it the rest of the 5 year on the bike so they cover 3 years. I could be wrong on this but I know that yamaha does not cover it all the way for 5 years., but the coverage is run thru them .
  4. bikenut
    I run 20/50 Amsoil all the time in my 99 venture when I had it and now in my 2006 venture and my whine got less. Depends on what type of whine you have . it has worked great for me for well over 100000 miles on both bikes Good luck . :stirthepot: LOL
  5. bikenut
    Your 85 also has a larger trunk then the 83 & 84. 85 was when Yamaha was playing around with larger side bags and trunck and yours was the first changesdone to it. 86 they came out with the same as yours but the larger side bags and top loading non-removable, Hope this helps
  6. bikenut
    If anyone has to remove any badges all you need is some fish line and just pull it thru the back side of the badge like a knife. Will not hurt the paint at all. Just a little tip I used many times removing car side moldings
  7. bikenut
    Any 3M double sided car tape will work. Go to a paint store for cars and they will have it. I found that the 3M worked best for me. Hope this helps:fingers-crossed-emo
  8. bikenut
    Me to and look that good
  9. bikenut
    What air pressure are you runnin? Looks to me that your tire could have used a little more air in it. I run 48 psi in my rear e3 and that took away all the dips on my bike. Every bike is not the same due to the way you drive it. Hope this helps
  10. bikenut
    When I bleed Brakes or clutches, I always suck out all that is in the masters cyl first and replace with new fluid. Then I hook up my home made bleeder that works great for me. This home made bleeder is a clear plastic jar with a led on it. I drilled a hole in the top of the led for a hose to go thru tight and is the right size to fit the bleeders on the bike. You push the hose thru the led and to the bottom of the jar. Before closing the led put about 1/2 " brake fluid in the jar so the hose is under the fluid all the time. Now hook the hose to the bleeder on the bike, Open the bleeder up and leave it open and then all you have to do is pump the lever on the handle bars or foot lever slowly and keep adding new fluid in the master until clear brake fluid comes out in the jar. Once you see clear brake fluid coming in the jar with no air bubbles coming out , you close the bleeder and you are done. With this home made bleeder air can not be suck into the bleeder when you are pumping the lever because the hose is in the fluid in the jar. Give it a try it makes life very easy when you are alone workng on a bike by yourself. Hope this helped a little Keep the rubber side down
  11. bikenut
    Sounds to me it is running lean on the low end. Sure the low speed pilot jets are clean. Main jets are ok if taking off after 3000 rpm. May have to get back into your carbs again. Hope this helps
  12. bikenut
    If you find a fuse under the fairing that is the stock setup from Yamaha but you should relocate that fuse to under the seat for future access without taking the fairing off and also add a relay to the lights. Without the relay this causes the main key switch to go bad. To much amps running thru the key switch and in the end the switch goes bad. So relocate the fuse and add a relay to help with no problems in the future.
  13. bikenut
    check your Audio Fuse under right lower leg guard and also the Back-up fuse for the radio under the left side cover. I just had a guys bike in the shop for the same thing and found the back-up fuse was blown after he installed a new battery. Replaced the fuse radio came on right away. Hope this helps
  14. bikenut
    too much air pressure will do this also. Just a thought.
  15. bikenut
    I agree with the rest. Any good 2 stroke oil will work and not mess up the motor or carb:080402gudl_prv:
  16. bikenut
    Try here look down to see for lens , red or amber http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=BARON%2DTWIN%2DMARKER&CartID= HOPE THIS HELPS
  17. bikenut
    The big reason for changing oil at least once a year is the moisture that is in your motors from starting up cold and then shutting down. Acid is also a reason. so No matter what you run reg oil or syn you should still change it no matter what the mileage is. I run Amsoil for 7500 miles and change filter every time and yes I am a dealer. Have a great day and hope this helps:080402gudl_prv:
  18. bikenut
    Did you remove the rubber plug on the block jet assy because there are jets under the rubber plugs. I just did my 86 and they were the ones that were blocked and made my bike run bad. Just a thought Good luck
  19. bikenut
    First off the BB'S are way to big to give you a balance because they can not spread out enough inside the tire to balance it. The beads are very small and will spread out were needed and balance the tire much better then the BB'S. They might work but for $7.00 per tire Why try something that is not been test to work right. Also they are reusable for your next tire change. I use a small vac to suck them out of the old tire and but right back into the new tire I install. Beads are all I use in my shop and have had no complants at all from anyone for the past 6 years i have been changing tires. Have a great day
  20. bikenut
    A little mouse was playing with your buttons LOL I have no Idea either . It would have to be the meter
  21. bikenut
    Just looked up the parts numbers and Yes they are the same part number for a 83 and a 86 so I would think all ventures use the same thing. Hope this helps:080402gudl_prv:
  22. bikenut
    Hi Rick I got them from Steve Morris about 4 years ago when I was building my trike from the tri-wing kit. I did remove my stock pegs and build a heal/toe shifter from two shifters. I am now looking at moving the shifter up forward so it would be easier to shift . Have to make new brackets and linkage to do this but I will try. I love them on the trike. When I got them there were in a little bad shape but did not take too much to fix them back to new. Now my 86 somewhat feels like my 2006 venture. Later
  23. bikenut
    Rick I have a set on my 1986 trike I made . What you looking for??????????? I had mine all re-chromed and I re did the rubbers. Go to my Profile and look at MY photos of my 1986 Yamaha trike. You can see them installed
  24. bikenut
    Yes I did mine by just looking and trying it different ways. What Gary Posted is the right way it should go together but just remember that the rubber grommet on the end of the gold rod must be install off the gold rod into the body then put the gold rod into it. Thanks Gary for the pictures and the break down.
  25. bikenut
    Just some little info for you all. I could not find any info on how the proportioning valve is put together and I know someone else (& it was a dealer) worked on the one I have on my parts bike before I got the bike, because the rear brakes would not release after you pump on the rear brake pedal. First I checked the rear caliper by opening the rear bleeder and then the wheel would move just fine . I checked the rear master for a pluged up return little hole but that was clean , I rebuilt the master because I had it out , so then on to the proportioning valve . Well I took it apart and found the following. The person before me put the last seal in under the spring washer which is wrong. It is to go in the end nut and then I also found out that the first seal you install DO NOT INSTALL ON THE PISTON.(which the dealer did ) and I also did the first time. The proportioning valve will not work ,the seal goes to the wrong place and will not release the pressure back to the master. You have to install the first seal by pushing it down the tube all the way to the bottom then push the piston into the seal then install the spring,spring washer and last the nut with the seal placed inside if the nut. Then I put back on my bike Everything works fine. Just to prove that even if you take it apart and put it back the way you took it apart, may be the wrong way and that is what I found out. It would have been nice to have a breakdown of it to save some time. The Yamaha service manual does not have anything on the proportioning valve except a picture for my 1986 Venture Royal. I hope this info might help others that have the same problem. Most of the time this problem is a plugged small return hole in the master but not this time.
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