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CptKirk

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  1. CptKirk
    Engine/trans got no more than a good cleaning as it was in perfect shape compression and otherwise (had a new clutch already). Electrics were not distrurbed other than volt/ohm checks of pickup coils, stator output and primary/secondary ign coils. Airhorn added with the correct relay properly installed according to Stebel instructions. I did change the TCI as I made the mistake of using a pressure washer and cleaner to clean the engine and frame etc before disassembly DOH I then ran the engine for a while and the steam caused the TCI to act up. Have learned my lesson and will never do that again. The vacuum sensor never did hold vac or pressure and by the look of the plugs then (sooty as they get) it had been run like that for a while. I bought a matching vaccuum sensor and TCI off a low mile 87 VR fom Pinwall. The numbers off the TCI exactly matched the one I removed (although I did take the top off and dry out the origional and put back in for a test, does work now but not before I paid for and recieved the Pinwall items). The number off the vac sensor is close to the origional. The bike has the matching set of TCI and sensor installed at the moment. I was messing around with the bike today as it's raining here and noticed that I can hear what sounds like a vacuum leak that follows one cylinder not a constant leak but one that follows the rythme of one cylinder and it is most noticeable on the right front side of the motor. The leak sounds to be above the valve covers and above the plastic shield near the water temp sensor beside the rad filler cap. I checked every vacuum line I know of and all are connected and none have leaks. Short of pulling the airbox off no idea what might be causing the sound. It's not coming from the carb slide covers. Carbs have not been removed or messed with by me other than flushing the bowls with Seafoam,checking the diaphrams for tears (also rechecked the slide covers for leaks with WD40 afterward), synchronizing, pilot screw check and checking float levels with a guage I made (slightly low as they are all right at midline of the slide covers) .
  2. CptKirk
    Great idea. Will try the synchrometer on it and see what shows. The lack of a lag did make a difference with it out of the line so sumthins up. More than likely it's the monkey (moi) on the tools. You're right ,thought about it after posting, the ign signal comes from the pickup coils so I'm on a blind alley with the thought where vacuum comes from makes any difference at all.The inside dia of the hole in restrictor is 1mm as you note.:bowdown: Wonder why they put an directional arrow on it as there are no checks in it , maybe just an SAE thing.
  3. CptKirk
    I looked up the "nozzle" aka restictor on Bike Bandit .com per wisdom here:bowdown:.......... it shows under the airbox diagram as per that same wisdom BUT it shows the sensor tube taking vacuum from cylinder #1 not #2 so........ I'l change the boost sensor tube the cyl #1 spigot and see what happens. I looked up the boost sensor part number for an 83 and an 87. Bike bandit shows the same part number for both years in their listings??
  4. CptKirk
    The restictor is installed the same way I found it prior to tear down with a short length of tubing from the intake port of the (#2) front left (sitting on bike) forward cyl. (approx 3 inches long) then a 16 inch long length of tubing to the boost sensor. Could it be that it needs to be closer to the boost sensor as opposed to 16 inches away?? That could make a difference in timing lag perhaps???
  5. CptKirk
    I had a close look at the restrictor. There is no clogging or obstrucion just a tiny spot of daylight. I did nothing to the carbs other than clean them with Seafoam though the fuel system, new fuel filter and drain the fuel tank. Engine compression is great on all cylinders. New plugs.Starts great Runs well. Carbs synchronized. Tried a boost sensor from an 83 and an 87 donor bike. Both work and hold vac also check out with volt meter as good but mileage is poor with either installed. It apeared someone jury rigged the restrictor in so that is why it was suspect. Mileage and performance better with it out so figured that was the issue. There is an arrow on it which was pointing in the direction of the boost sensor. Will try it the other way around. From the wisdom here :bowdown:it does belong on the bike. (US model) . Have no fuel leaks but do get black sooty plugs after 200 miles. I check fuel levels in the carbs, if anything it is very slightly low on all four but very slightly. Pilot neeedles are out two turns each. No backfires or hesitations, plenty of power. In fact runs as good or better than my 83 VR which runs superb. Carb slide diaphrams have no holes or tears but have not had a look at the coast enrichment diaphrams. Really puzzled as to why removing the resrictor improved the mileage so much but it did so I was happy. Prior I could get no better than 100 miles to a tank of fuel :think:and it really sucked the majority of the fuel on highway at 60mph (speedo is in MPH) In fact the other day a 68 mile trip sucked a tank down 3/4 . So.................. a bit confused, surely the direction the restrictor is installed can't make much difference. Any idea which way the arrow is supposed to point? Without it in I ran 40 miles yesterday and the guage never left full and a Imp gallon topped the tank up full.(yes the guage works fine LOL)
  6. CptKirk
    I finished a tear down to frame motor, wiring and reassembly of an 87 VR I bought on ebay. The bike is on the road, looks and rides great :12101:but........ I was floored by the poor fuel milage. When I reassembled the bike I replaced the boost sensor as it was fubar. I found somewhere along the line a line restrictor was put on the vac line to the sensor.I put it back in at the same time as the swap. Had never seen one on other VRs though. Fuel mileage was about 20 mpg:confused07:. Thinking about the work done, couldn't find an issue. Pulled off the line restrictor and now am about 43mpg with better power curve. Why the radical change in mileage and performance with it out ? Can't find restrictor in any parts listings so, for now it's in the box of parts I don't figure need to be there:soapbox:
  7. CptKirk
    Will give it a go. Thanks for the info. Was going to try to repair it but wasn't certain parts would be an easy find.
  8. CptKirk
    Looking for a rear intercom base for an 87 Venture. Someone got off the bike with the helmet connected and overextended the cable. Broke the helmet connector plug in the base. Have been watching the net for one but no joy so far. If anyone has a line on a decent used one momma (who broke it) will be happy. Mind..... now I can't hear her over the headset now that I think about it . captainkirk@shaw.ca
  9. CptKirk
    Just did my 87 a well. It' a chore to get the spacer from progressive in but worth the hassle. Biggest challenge is not to strip the cap bolt. Used a speeder handle and full body weight to get the cap bolt installed. Changes the bike incredibly. No air pressure needed. With new head bearings, fork seals, bushings, and superbrace say goodbye to any wobble at any speed................
  10. CptKirk
    Super glue, hilarious but I like the look of about a quart of epoxy and fiberglass mesh. The seals were aftermarket bought on ebay. Just make sure you check them against what you take out. The forks seals have been holding air with no pressure loss (12 psi) for 72 hours. Next time I'll use cutting torch to trim thm to size for a precision fit and shape the epoxy and fiberglass to make a cool air scoop. Will get a box for parts that I figure don't belong, after consultation of course.
  11. CptKirk
    Bought all the components to rebuild the forks on my 87 VR. Installed all new parts and reassembled the forks. All went well until I seated the seals. Found they would not drive in far enough to install both the top spacer (gold colored upper spacer) and the snap ring. No such luck as it appeared the seal wasn't bottomed out enough to allow both spacer and snap ring.Bought a seal driver and tried to get the seal to bottom. Thought they were hydro locked by grease lube. No such luck as the seal driver would not bottom out the seal, in fact it was telling me they were already bottomed. Finally decided the seal must be the issue so disassembled the forks to remove some grease. Found when I compared the old seal with the new ones that the new seals were thicker by exactly the thickness of the top spacer. Reassembled the forks and left out the top spacer and installed the snap ring. The forks are back together and hold air fine. Bottom line is to compare the seals before assembly. Wasted a lot of time but the fix was simple once I knew the problem. The snap ring above the seal is all that's needed to tightly retain the seal and top bushing, the top spacer takes up the slack with the thinner stock seal (lower spacer (silver) is in place). Anyone ever run into the same thing?
  12. CptKirk
    Your right and I don't know either but guess it's meant to ride. I'll turn up the music
  13. CptKirk
    I did a search for noise with transmission in neutral and found a couple of concepts about the noise source but just not sure what I'm looking at labor wise. Wondering what the most likely source of noise is. Working on a 1987 XVZ13DTC with 60000 miles. The bike is running great right now but I can hear a rumble that goes away in neutral with the clutch pulled in. When the clutch is let out in neutral the rumble comes back . It' not loud but it is there. Using a stethoscope I can hear the rumbling loudest near the oil fill plug. When the clutch is pulled in the noise is gone completely and everything is smooth. It sounds like a bearing rumble. Clutch works great no binding, grabbing slipping or other nonsense. Shifts great and clutch lever engages at the bottom almost as if the clutch is a newer one. (The bike is new to me) I am wondering what the most likely culprit is and how critical you guys think this might be and how soon it should be fixed. Biggest concern is that it is the ball bearing behind the clutch on the output of the transmission.(Part #8 in the transmission picture.) I saw the pictorial tech post here of a member who removed his engine to split the cases and replace the 30.00 bearing because the cage folded on the bearing behind the clutch basket and disintegrated leaving all the balls bunched up inside the two races. Or could it more likely be the clutch bearing itself? (#17 in the picture of the clutch assembly)
  14. CptKirk
    I bought a boost sensor from the same seller a week ago.Same picture so he must have a few. The part I got worked perfectly. Mine wouldn't hold vacuum nor pressure. Has a diaphram inside and a computer pressure sensor. Diaphram leaks and timing goes out of whack. Bought another as backup from Pinwall but paid 50.00 for the part off a 5000 mile bike. Diaphram is just as old though.:mo money:
  15. CptKirk
    Pipes on and buttoned up. On to finishing assembly of the front end as soon as donor bike right front rotor appears by Purolator. By the wonder how does a person borf a perfectly good right front rotor apparently from over use? The left I can undertand. Must have been a wild person to ride with in a corner. Been smiling all morning.:sun::680:
  16. CptKirk
    After the long winded B*&^%()t about velocity stacks and fluid dynamics. I CANNOT believe how well this engine runs now. Absolutely like Dr. Jeckyl and Mr. Hyde. Never seen such a transformation. Sure wouldn't mod an airbox on a Venture. Airbox in place and it purrs like a kitten. Put the synchrometer back on and leaned the primary circuit back to the factory 2 turns from bottom. Didn't have to touch any other adjustments and it's bang on. In fact the vacuum is higher by 60 Kg/cm 2 and is at 250 KG/cm 2 all four carbs. So the stacks are a huge part of the performance on the bike or what? Very driveable now and from the widom here I can look forward to better yet Now if I can only get he crankcase vent pipe connected without standing on my head. LOL:bang head:
  17. CptKirk
    This is the bike I'm working on. Following the wisdom from members of Venture.org (Which is more wisdom than the manual.) Ebay in Canada.Was origionally from MI USA then to Winnipeg and on this site when I bought it. Front end needed work so the entire font suspension is rebuilt using help from the people here. (Never seen so much oil on a set of brakes. ) Have had it to the frame and wiring to clean up and get to know it.) Also a picture of my 83. Fun bike to ride.
  18. CptKirk
    I see what you're talking about. Gotcha and tks large. In place the stacks orient to the center of the air filter opening. Beauty.
  19. CptKirk
    Sorry Hipshot got carried away. Found this info and makes a lot of sense (dictionary included LOL) Noticed some fuel spit back (stand off) without the airbox so its actually spitting out fuel during intake pulses. With the velocity stacks, plenum and airbox in place the intake is re ingesting the fuel stand off or spit back which richens the mixture. Hey learned something new. Credit for following to Wikepedia. A velocity stack is a generally cylindrical tube with a radiused inlet end device which is added onto the air entry location or locations of an engines intake system, carburetor or fuel injection. It can be attached to an airbox inlet or to each cylinder in an IR (individual runner). Used with or without an "airbox". It is designed to: 1. Allow smooth and even entry of air into the intake duct with the flow streams boundary layer adhering to the pipe walls. 2. Modify the dynamic tuning range of the intake tract by functioning as a small reverse megaphone which can extend the duration of pulses within the tract. 3. Alter the dynamic tuning speed (dynamic engine compression) if the overall length is changed thereby changing the tuned length to a lower or higher rpm. http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/d/da/Velocity_stack.GIF Modified engines often have the original air box and associated ducting removed and velocity stacks are installed as aerodynamic replacements. Modern fuel injection systems with a single air inlet typically incorporate some sort of tapered entrance, nullifying what gains might be had from a true velocity stack. However in professional motor racing where even fractions of a percent improvement count, this small improvement is welcome. The length of the stack is known to have a direct effect on a particular engine rpm range. As a result it’s not unusual to see a race engine with differing lengths of stacks to fine tune each cylinder. “Racy” in appearance, velocity stacks do not usually have a major impact on airflow or performance unless the stock horn is of an inferior design. Beyond air flow improvement a velocity stack may be useful in containing "stand off" which may result from removing the original ducting. "Stand off" is fuel which is spit back out of the intake by pulsing action in the intake system. A velocity stack gives the engine a chance to re-inhale that fuel which can be helpful. http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/8/8a/Velocity_stack_workings.GIF The acceleration of air flow into a duct is inherently a highly efficient process and the difference between even the crudest radius inlet, and the most aerodynamic shape possible is slight, amounting to no more than a few percent. The flow coefficient of a perfect entry would be 1 while the flow coefficient for a sharp edged entry would be .9. A difference of only 10% from the worst possible entrance to the best possible entrance. This does not mean that engine airflow would increase 10% as the inlet end is usually not the smallest part of the system. The actual overall gain would be much less. One of the current issues (2008) affecting velocity stack design on IR (individual runner) engines is that what an engine wants, to improve power, is may be different in radius and taper from what radius and taper flows best on an air flow bench but these effects are close to unmeasurable.
  20. CptKirk
    Did some searches on this site and the general consensus in returned hits is that the airbox makes a difference. So I went to the parts I have cleaned up and pulled out the airbox. After a quick look at it I noticed that the velocity stacks are angled and can be angled toward the wallls and underside of the plenum chamber they sit in or angled toward the center opening to the air filter box. The assembled airbox has a compound purpose, air filtration and intake charge smoothing, velocity and containment of fuel standoff. If they are angled toward the side of the plenum they are restricted by the side and roof of the plenum. That would restrict airflow and richen the mixture, if oriented toward the large opening to the airfiliter less restriction and a leaner mixture. Now the million dollar question is which way do they point. If oriented toward the outside of the plenum in a more restricted area they serve the same as having my hand partially obstruct the carb throat and get a decent throttle response. Checked my 83 XVZ12 and they all point into the center of the plenum so will try that first. Does look like you can tune these stacks by orientation to change airflow characteristics. Would appear Yamaha did some fluid dynamics research in designing the airbox and it has more to do with performance than just another air filter holder. Since it's easier than sticking hot rocks up my B^&T I'll give it some experimentation.
  21. CptKirk
    Well I let the Seafoam sit for about 5 hours as it's concentrated in the fuel bowls. I let it drain and no garbage came out with it but it was a very very slightly discolored fluid coming out into a clean white container. I refilled the tank with fuel and Seafom in a high concentration after reinstalling the fuel pump and new filter. Only installed the stock filter at this point. I started the bike which it did right away (in a cloud of smoke:happy-emoticon:), allowed it to warm to off choke condition and ran it in the 2000 to 4000 rpm for a while,cycling the throttle to pump the mixture of fuel and seafoam through the carbs. It doesn't backfire as bad but still does when cranked open for a second.. If I put my hand over one of the carb throats at a time the bike picks up RPM nicely with a 3000 rpm starting point so my question is........... Does the airbox in place make a big difference in running?? Any restriction on the carb throats while running gives an instant increase in RPM. I guess I'll put it back on and see if there is a difference and take it back off to remove the carbs for a cleaning if it doesn't. So............... do these bike run s(*&^y without the airbox? Never ran my 83 without it in place so just not sure if that is the issue at this point. :confused07: Seafoam did improve things though.
  22. CptKirk
    Filled the carbs with Seafoam and let it drain. Got very little of anything from each so filled each again and closed the drains let the cleaner sit in the carbs for a day or two. Enough in there that it ran out of the overflow tubes on each. Got nothing out of the overflow tubes. The tanks has been drained and got nothing out of it to speak of at all. Caught the drain flow in a fine mesh. SO that's nice to know. Will drain the carbs in a while and then run some seafoam through mxed into tank fuel contents.
  23. CptKirk
    Picked up some Seafoam in both spray and pour in the tank variety. Plan to open the drains and spray some up into the carb bowls through the drain hoses and see what backflows out into a clean white container. The stuff that has come out initially looks lot like the pic of the crumblies out of float bowl above so will check the overflows for gumbo. Gotta say these drain hoses were a good design idea from the point of view that you an check the bowl contents and manually introduce a cleaner. But probably a messy pain in the butt for checking float level. The slides actually don't move all together now that you mention it. The #1 and #2 are not responding the same as 3 and 4. I had the same though that they were torn or separated so pulled the covers and took the slides out along with the diaphrams and closely inspected hem. They are in good shape no tears or cracks and they are attached to one another like new. The springs are all good. All 4 of the jets in behind the diaphrams are clean and unobstructed. Pulled each out and looked down the passage ways which appear to be clear with no build up of garboly. The overflow thing with rust is not a happy thing to have and cleaning could be a bear. Will pull the overflows and have a boo to see wassup. The tank fill neck has zip for rust as far as can be easily seen with a small mirror but sure can't see far inside. SO........... the overflow check is a great thought. A second fuel filter is great idea and the thought of fuel pressure drop issues once installed is valid as well. Think I'll try it by jury rig and throw a pressure guage on the line to see what drop I get if any. Going to drain the tank as well an see wassup there too, it looks so clean I wasn't going to but it's well worth the check and know than trust the bedpan tank. Thanks for the collective wisdom guys. Maybe I'll have this bike ready for a ride before he snow LOL. Interesting ebay experience expected some work on an old bike. Really could be worse.
  24. CptKirk
    Having a good look at the tank it's clean metal as far as can be seen with a small mirror BUT will be following the wisdom of additional fuel filter. Bike had very litle rust anywhere but some minor chrome pitting. The filter in it is not all that dirty when you backflush it. Looks like small grains of rust but they crumble in the fingers. Hope the seafoam and bowl flush helps but no biggie as if the carbs come off they are guaranteed clean. Just REALLY glad to hear the agreement on the carbs being the issue. :fingers-crossed-emo:fingers-crossed-emo Boots are tight and no cracks on them at all. The backfire isn't violent but it's there and even though it hasn't been out yet (suspension redone incuding swingarm bearings (good shape but was in there cleaning anyways DOH .) it's not got much power dialed on.
  25. CptKirk
    The synch plugs are in place. They were there when I hooked up and their back now after I finished pulling sychrometer so no joy with a quick fix. Thanks for the thought :starz:
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