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CptKirk

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  1. CptKirk
    Thanks large for the wisdom. Awesome news.
  2. CptKirk
    The neutral switch on my 87 XVZ1300 is leaking oil. After opening the side cover I see that the wiring is cooked pretty well and I'd like to replace the switch assembly while I'm in there. Have a source for a new old stock 1984 XVZ1200L switch and am wondering if that would work as a replacement? The price is reasonable as compared to the dealers crazy price. If it won't work, does anyone know where I can get a reasonably priced replacement switch. Part numbers on the package of the possible replacement part are 41R-82540-01 A890725C 62 0612-3
  3. CptKirk
    That's where I got the goofy seals from, Pyramid parts. Things that make you go hmmm.......... Guess that's the last time for them.They held oil and air for a short time then started weeping.
  4. CptKirk
    No need to be concerned about the index marks. When putting it back together with the new plates I checked for fit before sliding the plates into the basket. If the fit seemed sightly binding I rotated the friction plate one notch and tried again until a good fit was accross all the disks.I scuffed up the old pressure plates with scotch bright to make a new break in surface and installed two new plates to sub for slight marks on the two innermost ones.Having cleaned up the basket fingers of any old wear patterns by lightly filing them and installing a new throw out bearing I put it together and found no issues. Bottom line is don't worry about the indexing.The steel plates need to be oriented so that the sahrp edges of the pressure plates all face the same direction when installing. ( Sharp edges from the stamping process) I installed them with the rounded edges toward outboard.The clutch works just fine, better than new.No oil leaks either.Had I read more I would have seen the "don't worry about indexing" comment in a post on this forum.
  5. CptKirk
    The seals I was sent by the supplier held air pressure and oil for a short time making me think all was going to be fine. NOT, they leaked through the winter. This year I disassembled the forks and removed them. It would appear I was sent the wrong seals. In comparing them with the stock ones I found the ones I had installed were approx 1/8 " too deep and would not allow enough space for the top spacer. Bottom line is check the seals by compariosn. The new correct seals work perfectly and the top sapcer fits where it belongs along with the snap ring. Long story short never trust the parts you get and always compare them to the origionals. Learned my lesson but am sure good at taking the front end apart and reassembling.Apparently you can trust four people as long as three of them are dead.The top washer has to be in place or the seal has nothing to push against on the back stroke and will bypass oil.
  6. CptKirk
    Think maybe this is the answer re indexing. If you take apart an in used clutch, you would mark each wearing piece so it goes together in a previously worn way. Surface against wearing surface.Built in indexes on stock plates let you do and undo without worry. The Barnett plates would need to be marked to disassemble and reassemble if for some reason you needed to after it had been in service for a while. You'd need to index an in use clutch to put it back the way it was worn and not have binding. The index is only for a used clutch?? Does that make sense.? Wisdom welcome.
  7. CptKirk
    Got it opened up. Actually went well. I see the inner outer thing now. The inner is narrow. Dealer says no indexing needed. Looks like you feel fit each friction plates you load it. Have a new release bearing and all the metal driven plates are like new. Was surprised to see no wear except the most inner one that ran on the thin inner friction ring. Have a new one to replace it with.Green plates are softer to run on aluminum final faces. Barnett is no help though.
  8. CptKirk
    I just bought a set of Kevlar friction plates from a Barnett dealer for my 86 VR XVZ13. When I received the plates two things confuse me. The shop manual shows index dots on the basket and index notches on the plates. These Barnett plates have no index notches on single longer tab per plate. Do I not have to concern myself with indexing or is something wrong with the plates.? The other confusing thing is there are two green colored plates, one for either end of the clutch pack. One green plate is just as wide as all the other plates except it is green. The other plate is also green but is narrow compared to the others. Any idea which one is inboard and which is the outboard plate. Barnett is silent on the subject and no help on their web site. Apparentlythey don't answer email questions. The dealer is equally silent. Both refer me back to the manual. And back at looking for index tabs, no mention of one narrow plate in the manual either. Thanks for any wisdom.
  9. CptKirk
    Looks like all my problems with mileage were the vac sensor. Mileage seems right according to the wisdom here. Would have been nice to polish it up a bit with the needles but that's life. Certainly appreciate the help from all of you. Bike is put way for now as it's just plain getting cold up here. I replaced fork seals this year but they were an ebay item and they still weep oil. So that will be next seasons first issue. I did the job very carefully but no real joy will go over it in another post. Tks large for the assist on this thread.
  10. CptKirk
    I couldn't put it any better than these guys already have. No special tools required, a helper is handy to pump the brake lever and keep the reservoir full or to open and close the bleeder nipple. Click here and print it out for future reference. [url=http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/maintenance/brakes.htm][/url]http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/maintenance/brakes.htm
  11. CptKirk
    Had an issue with my 87 when I got it. Stuck pistons caused increased pressure on one side of the rotor which is a two piece affair. The unequal pressure caused the rivets to let go and the two piece rear rotor could chatter and move independent of the hub (laterally). If your bike has a two piece rotor/hub assembly have a boo at how solid the rivets are that connect the rotor to the hub you may find that they are loose and allow the rotor to wobble side to side much worse than a heat warped rotor. The one I garbaged would rattle like a kids toy yet the previous owner was driving around on it. Pretty sure you know that ANY brake fluid on the rotors or pads will cause a grab and a lockup.
  12. CptKirk
    Went for a ride to a place called Fauqier BC Today, mountains and winding road. It's the other side of the summit of the Monashee mountains. Speeds variable fom 45 mph to 90 mph used cruise for about 40 percent of the ride. Changes since I last rode it, restrictor is in the line with the newest vac sensor I had in hand and a resynch at 3000 rpm. After doing the math from metric to US measure I got 37.98 Miles per US gallon. I will have a look at the plugs in a bit and have a go at lowering the slide needles to see if an improvement can be gained. The new sensor is a help and puts out 3.19 V using the manual bench test procedure. The resynch couldn't have hurt either. Posted some pics just in case you might find them interesting. If you're out in BC Canada the ride to Fauqier is a nice day with some great food and a couple free ferry rides along the way. Just watch out for deer and cattle.
  13. CptKirk
    No idea as I've been using the manual bench test with a 12 volt DC supply. The manual doesn't show a test procedure for an in frame test, at least not the one I have. No doubt inserting a probe would give me that but it's back in the bike and a royal pain to get at. No Manual tests shown for ignition Voltage that doesn't demand 12V min constant. So.............. Switched voltage could well be the best test but why no test in the manual? the manual is actually not the best I've ever seen you ever find that. Makes me feel like a high functioning moron wrote it. No credits in the title as to the author other than YAMAHA. Good bike poor manual. . The ign/charge is 14.2 volts running on a new batt. The 87 sensors came of of running bikes from Pinwall Cycles,the newest one is in the bike now. Petty much working on the balance of probability that I have at least two good ones out of three. Not including a non functional (no hold vac) 87 version and the 83 version that takes it's vac cue above the throttle plates so it has to have a different low/midrange curve making it a spare for my 83 (Puts out3.09 on DC unswitched source) Funnily,the messed up 87 version stills puts out 3.19 volts but no vac voltage output curve in bench test just flat line on pressure or vac 3.19 V constant output so it's fubar.
  14. CptKirk
    I'm reading that the vac sensor should put out 2.0 volt. I have three of them. One is an 83 other two are 87. None of them give the reference voltage of 2.0 volts. I am using storage pack 12 volt source. Is the igniton voltage different? I really don't want to take things apart again. I didn't think to check before I put the cowls back on. It seems unbelievable that all three sensors from different bikes won't give the 2.0 volt reference while bench testing. Sunny 29C here today still good riding weather. There is no global warming?
  15. CptKirk
    Great idea and did exactly that tks for the concept as it's a good one.
  16. CptKirk
    Are you talking bout the slide needles or? Great idea but how to go about It? I checked the "choke rods" there is slack in the cable when choke is full off and they all bottom out and move smoothly through choke lever ranges. So that's not the issue but nice to know. I removed the vac sensor and replaced it with another one I had from an 87 as well.. The previous had a voltage test of 3.08 volts using the procedure in the manual. The one that is in now has 3.19 volts. They both show a voltage drop when vac applied to the line and a volt increase when pressure applied. Both held steady voltage when vac held. Engine RPM changed when vac line removed from nipple on both. Restrictor as back in line. No time to test ride the bike but will head out on the highway if the weather is decent tomorrow evening.
  17. CptKirk
    Had a couple hours to burn before night shift so checked the carb levels again with the engine running. I burped the lines to ensure no air. Repeated several times. Pictures attached show the way I did it and the results with the motor running at idle. Absolutely no air in the lines during the test. Any thoughts on the result? The level is lower than the carb slide center line by a little over .5"
  18. CptKirk
    Had to go back to work so haven't had a minute to work on the bike BUT I do sincerely appreciate the brainstorming you guys have put into someone else's issue. Not a common thing these days. This is a great forum and a great group of people. I'll be back at the problem in a few days after I get away from the salt mines.The concepts put forward are well thought out and speak well of each of you. So thanks for the assistance. I'll take a work through each one until I find the source of the problem as the bike is fun to ride and has every option available. It is cleaned to the frame and hasn't looked as good since it was bought new. There are some pics of the toy run in an album in my profile. Once again THANKS for your help.
  19. CptKirk

    CptKirk posted a gallery image in Member Albums

    From the album: Toy run

  20. CptKirk
    First day on the road after strip down and reassembly

    From the album: Toy run

  21. CptKirk

    CptKirk posted a gallery image in Member Albums

    From the album: Toy run

  22. CptKirk

    Toy run

    Images added to a gallery album owned by CptKirk in Member Albums

    Santas Anonymous run
  23. CptKirk
    Just so I have the right idea re float levels here is how I checked them.I used an adapter nipple to hook onto the drain tubes and plugged on a piece of clear plastic tubing. I held the tubing up beside the carb slide then opened the drain plug allowing fuel to run ito the drain line and plastic tube. Ignition on to run fuel pump. Sighted the fuel level in the plastic tube to give me the location of the fuel level in bowls. Showed that the level was at center of carb slide which I interperect to slightly low. I started the engine several times and let it idle then repeated the above on each carb. All levels are the same on each carb.Would this be correct or am I missing something?
  24. CptKirk
    I checked the sensor with a voltmeter and vaccuum. Holds vacuum, voltmeter shows an advance when vacuum applied. Voltage values checked against manual and are within spec'd values. Any stoppage and hold in vac keeps steady voltage until vac released or increased.All four cylinders are firing as all four pipes are hot. Used a spray of water on each which instantly sizzles and vapourizes. No wet plugs but do show a rich condition (sooty). No misfires through the entire rpm range loaded.Carbs synched using a four guage synchrometer. Idle at 1000 rpm. Reading steady 25kpa on all four. Visual check slides move freely and open at the same rate at all rpm to 4000 in neutral. (higest rpm taken to in neutral). WOT briefly in neutral and all four open equally.WOT briefly in neutral and equal vac drop on all four guages with steady smooth return to 25 kpa steady on idle return..New bearings in front wheel spinning freely. Rear axle oil changed , no material in the oil and rear wheel spins by hand with little to no effort. Tire pressures front and rear 32 psi front 40 psi rear.
  25. CptKirk
    Well, I'm embarrassed. The restrictor isn't the issue and no idea what is but have to confess I got ahead of myself. I ran the bike on a toy run after I removed the restrictor. Run was 43 miles and speed not over 40 mph. At the other end I fueled up and added a gallon of fuel estimated mileage 43mpg. Took a leisurely ride on back roads on return with speeds again not over 45 mph. Same fuel consumption so figured that I had fixed the issue of the bike being a fuel hog. Bad assumption on my part. I went out for a ride to see how far a tank would take me at highway speeds of 55 to 65 mph. Watching the fuel guage move toward empty is disheartening. It IS a fuel hog regardless of the restrictor and it's back in the line. The bike went through a full tank to reserve in 128 miles. So.............................. back to square one.It runs great, has all kinds of power and then some. Smooth acceleration but a gas hog.I'm wondering if the choke is partially on, any idea on how to check that angle? It's not leaking it out on the ground but might as well be for the poor mileage. Sorry to mislead, guess I was overly speculative on what I thought was a fix, bottom line I was out to lunch. Thanks for the attempts to assist.Any ideas of common places to look. Engine is in great shape whith a fresh valve adjust done by a shop, it is quiet and has tons of compression. Starts first time every time.
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