Marcarl

Not saying I would attend, would like to though, but I think you have an awesome idea!! Go for it!!!

Try moving the 'choke' lever in and out and follow the movements of the linkage.

Gotta start from scratch and that would be the gas tank. Need to eliminate that you might have some water in the bottom of the tank, so chuck in a bottle of methyl hydrate, called gasline antifreeze. That will soak up the water to clarify that part of things. Yep, check your plugs, although I doubt that to be the issue. Just because you had work done on the carbs doesn't mean anything useful was accomplished. Make sure that the enricher valves move all the way in when you push back the 'choke' button. Pull and push on the choke and watch that the valves actually move all the back to seating at home.

Let's put it this way. If everything is hunkie dorrie, then when you adjust the idle mixture screws there should be a change in engine rpm. You say that's not happening, well then things are dorrie hunkie. Seeing as the idle mixture circuit is hard to clean, I can understand that many times the side port is not cleaned in the rebuild process, yes the port going into the throat of the carb gets cleaned, and that is what you can see, but you can't see the port on the side. If that is plugged or restricted, the idle mixture screw will have little impact. Just for fun let's go over this again. Balance the carbs to perfection, not to the point of 'good enough' or ' that is the best I can do' , you want them all at the same vacuum level. Now with the gauges still attached, play with the idle mixture screws. Gently turn them in until the vacuum starts to drop, then back them out and you should see the vacuum come up, keep backing them out until the vacuum goes down once more. The half-way mark between the changes is the sweet spot. If you have no change in vacuum then the idle mixture circuit is not working.

Did you set and clean the needles yet?

So what bike does this fit? or what did it come off of.

Something to keep in mind is that you either want the bike or you don't. If you want to keep it for future needs, the price is higher, if it's time to send it away,,,, get ride of it, 'clean the place up' and live happier. If you are thinking this could be a fund raiser, it might help but should not be the end goal. IMHO.

Maybe it works this time.

Ben maybe (I said maybe) the king of hugs, but she has actually joined me on my 85 for a good half half hour. That girl is an excellent passenger!! I really couldn't say anything else, after all, it's her birthday.

Part #49?

I guess then, seeing as you are wishing things for her, I can as well. Happy Birthday Bev, and wishing that you may have many more yet keeping that man under control.

What's neat about the 4 carb setup is that you take one apart and then you can put it back together as you 'destroy' the next one. Before you do though, maybe get some carb cleaner, remove the needles and inject the cleaner into the now open port. Keep in mind that there are 2 openings in that port, one goes directly into the throat and is fed by one opening off the side of the port, Somehow both need to be cleaned. Inject the cleaner, wait a while and then shoot again and again. Give it about 2 hrs to complete. Then shoot it with a shot of air to complete. Put the needles back in til they gently stop, back out 2 turns and then reset at 900 rpm to highest vacuum. Each needle has a teeny tiny washer next tot eh spring and an even smaller o-ring. Don't loose them.

Wow Gary, haven't seen you around for a while!! GOOD to hear from you again. Suggest OEM plugs. And a hotshot cleaning of the carbs.

Make sure you measure the frame after you get it straight, bet the one side will be a bit longer than the other, so you'll have to compensate with mounting the axle of it will fishtail on yah.

Yep, I would say that your rebuilt carbs were not so rebuilt as one would have thought you to believe. If me was closer, then we'd get 'er done. Now if you move to Ontario and enjoy life..............

You won't likely see much change in the RPM. You need to hook up the vacuum gauges and check the vacuum at idle, 900 rpm.

The higher the quality, the longer the duration and appreciation.

Nice to have those gauges. You can use them to adjust your needle valves as well. It's just takes a pair of glasses sometimes, well at least for me anyways. Set your idle at 900, then turn the needle in or out and find the spot that shows highest idle and then the lowest idle, set point is right in-between the high idle point and the low idle point. No need to blip the throttle or anything like that for this has nothing to do with linkage. Each carb will be set at different amount of turns seeing as one carb is never totally identical to another. Keep in mind that the circuit you are dealing with only has full use when the throttle is closed, as the throttle opens this circuit has less and less effect on the overall carb system.

Going by the pictures, if you are looking for work, you just found it!

Price is right if the info is honest, but be ready to do some work on it. Not all wrenches do an admirable job, some even call cleaning and polishing 'maintenance". So get some salt, a case of beer and some interested party(s) to assist. Now you already have the interested party, get the beer.

Guess I said that wrong. left hand track for right hand turns as well as left hand turns. If you were to line up in the right hand track you would be sending the signal that you were turning right, if there was a right turn. My BAD!!

https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/en/yamaha-parts/4xy142510000 Or you could just solder it back together.

You will always find a difference, maybe only because you are being more sensitive to all the happenings. Now on the amount of oil, the more oil the less air in the forks, the less air the sooner it compresses to a higher pressure and the more sensitive the feel will be. Now will 1" of oil make enough of a difference that yu can feel it,,, don't know,,, just theory.

Give us a picture of where you are so far maybe.