Marcarl

I can see one little glitch for you. 400 ml of oil will be the right amount for OEM springs, but not if the PO added Progressive coils, they take up more room and so require less oil. Best to do a fill from the top method or you'll blow the seals. All that really needs to be removed for easy of access are the handle bars and small grills. There is nothing untoward hiding below the top plug, it can all stay there. I would suggest though that you would be a happy rider if you did a total rebuild and added Progressive springs and properly cleaned our all the residue in the tubes.

I would guess the switch.

Seems that @RedRider membership has expired.

I would be thinking to take the kick stand switch apart to make sure that it is working right.

Welcome to the best site in the country. Let us be of help if we can.

That tool should work, shims should be available at your local MC dealer.

Next I would look for a loose connection, broken wire, bad ground. Start at the tach and see where it takes you. You can download a wiring diagram from the website here

Condolences to all who mourn.

Always a hard thing to loose somebody that's close. We will ask for comfort for those who need it. For those of us are still here, it's a good reminder that life is limited and eternity is forever.

Pull the plug wires one by one with the engine running, If all 4 are firing you should hardly notice that you disconnected one. If it starts to stumble you have another cylinder out. While you do this you can also check the spark consistency. It's also a good idea to replace all the ignition wires with new ones, I would go wire wire core rather than carbon core, make sure they are seated well in the coil towers.

It sue was.

What to keep in mind are a couple of things: Sidewall deflection and contact patch. Too much sidewall deflection leads to overheating and too little contact patch leads to loss of traction.

If you rode the F3 you might have thought different. 6' is too tall for an RS.

Looks to me like you could have got more corners out of the old ones, lots of tread there.

Best way to check something like this out is in the parts phish. Check both years and see if there is a difference in the part numbers, and what the differences are.. I don't think there would be a problem for your issue though.

Don't take this to the judge, but I have seen quite a few heavy weights on the bikes that easily pass the 400 mark, and some that haven't got close as well. They all seemed to make it home safely. Fact is I even have a picture of us 2 on the 85, and that put even us over 400. Now tire pressure is another story. Check the tires for the load limit and pressure limit. In your case I would go up to the pressure limit on a cold tire. That is your best bet to not over stress the tire. Tires are stamped with a max pressure and a max load. If you only run half load on the tire, then you can run less pressure, but half is not half. Full load, is full pressure.

Next is, check out the coils, I think it's #2 that governs that part of things, keep in mind that these machine will run very nice on 3 cylinders, so you might not even notice if you drop one.

That I haven't heard of at all. I thought used was just plug and play, but then I've been wrong before.

First thing I would check out is the TCI. It's under the battery floor tucked away and hard to get at.

Stick with the 86 and up. Yes there was a cooling upgrade. On second thought, go new, high output. A used one can fail at anytime and you'll have to do it all over again.

I believe Rick's Motor Sports.

You are right on with costs. Bike, TCI,,,,,,,,, any you have just started. Tires, carb diaphrams, brakes, frame, fuel lines, slave cylinder, master cylinders, front forks,,,,,,,,. Best maybe count the costs before you sink with it.

Be sure to get pictures of the internals before you commit.

Off hand, I have an 86 sitting here and have an issue with dealing with the cost to get it road ready. That being said, here's some thoughts. On the 84s, all of them, the frame has a rotting issue, about the middle of the bike. If you want something that is ride-able then check the frame out first. Some have been repaired, others hit the grave yard. This issue was remedied not until mid 85. On the TCI, any 84 should work, if it works at all. You'll need to dig deep to get at it, but it is not impossible. Not sure is Ignitec (spell) still has replacements, @Skydoc might know better. Take out battery, battery floor and proceed from there. You might get lucky just cleaning the connector, but I doubt it. It's a bit of work. When you get it out it can be opened and that might give you a chance to clean and repair. It has been done before. Starter is normally weak, but if the engine starts promptly then does decent service. Most have gone with a 4 brush 2nd gen unit. There is a relay that governs the fuel pump, so it will shut off, either due to pressure or time. Best of luck to yah, post more if needed.

If you still have the glass fuses installed, get rid of the fuse panel and setup a spade fuse panel.