Marcarl

Oh sure!!! You know the rule: if there are no pictures it didn't happen, but in this case I'll take your word for it. Glad you all had a good time, 'course that is not unusual when VentureRiders get together,,,, actually, it's more or less expected.

HEY!! Don't see you in the picture,,,, are you there???

Heaven is perfect, so no need for any MC.

The metal OEM pipe will be history. An 1.5" pvc spacer is a good measure to start from. There should be a good amount of umph needed to get the screw cap to get threaded, if it goes on easy, make one a 1/2" longer.

I've heard and experienced that a common problem is the nut holding the shifter lever on tends to come off, and there are other nuts that tend to come somewhat loose as well, 'course those are mostly on the drivers seat and in your case may or may not be an issue, but then that's only my opinion.

I can understand what you were going through with trying to get the cap to thread. I use a t-bar with the proper sized socket, forks allowed to fully extend and then I have to put my shoulder into it as I carefully start the threading process. I used only 1/2 the available spacer and found that to be taxing enough to get things together, but it can be done.

All roads eventually lead to home,,, glad you made it back safely.

See your wind splitter is about as big as mine. Does it ever get you in trouble?? Mine has that habit!!

Looks like you may have it. Time to test ride it. If you find it has a mind of it's own, back it off a bit.

Not everybody will agree with me, fact is I expect some large??, but here goes. Clean out the master, clean out the master but do not push or pull on the handle in the process. Once clean, add some fresh brake fluid from a new can, maybe about 3/4 full. Lay the sealing boot on top of the reservoir to prevent fluid from shooting up and making a mess of things that are pretty. Now open the bleeder screw at the slave cylinder after attaching a hose that will go up and then down into a drain container. Only open the bleeder screw far enough to let the fluid come through, so maybe 1/2 turn.Fluid should start to ease out. You can help that along with quick pumps on the master cylinder, but don't let the reservoir run out of fluid. When you see clear fluid come through the hose (BTW it should be a clear hose) it is time to close the bleeder. Check the fluid level in the reservoir. Now squeeze the handle to see if you have back pressure. If you do and the clutch is working, you could be good to go. If it's still limp or somewhat limp, squeeze the handle a couple of quick times and then while holding it in open the bleeder screw, fluid should come out and maybe some air. Continue doing this until there is no more air coming out for at least 3 sessions. If you still don't have a good feel on the handle, let it sit for an hour or two. Then with the handle bars turned to the right and the master cylinder at it's highest attainable spot, open the reservoir to make sure there is enough fluid and then wiggle the handle a bit (not much, just so the piston moves) while at the same time tapping the banjo bolt with the handle of a screwdriver. You might see some tiny air bubbles coming up into the reservoir. Maybe now you're done,, if not, ask some more.

Just got this from Patch and he asked me to copy and paste for you all: EH Guys: Thanks for the comments and the solid company you place in. Well like Dad said the exchange between us was difficult. “Cryptic” is not something I have ever aspired to but it seems to fit at times within certain mind sets. For those that have been members for a while may recall I left a couple years back due to health issues, I kind of overcame. It was really nice coming back to the club tho. “a member?” even sent me a get well Russian Nurse! Oh brothers I still laugh over some truths, beliefs and the debates that fallowed…lmao After catching Covid and not knowing (was early on and from Spain) some months after I went for a cognisance test. Maurice my long time stitcher and I viewed the need and reasons perhaps and most likely as a result of the medical issues never thinking anything of this so called “long haul effects” I have good days, most mornings are clear. Interestingly enough my nato climbing partner went thru many of the symptoms I now experience. We both were exposed to high radio frequencies for long periods at a time over nearly 5 years. For him tho the change was sudden, they operated, he caught covid in the hospital and succumb to the events. So just to say I don’t know what the cause is nor do I know if it will worsen. I do know tho my spelling is fun for me and those that rib me over it, but writing rubbish is beneath the clubs reading and therefore is an embarrassment to me. Well I need not spell out Pucs and my relationship over the years…lol we always found our way back and thru the supper table potato throwing spirited “you are wrong” debates. Seriously we had some great times. Anyone remember the first time I called him “Sweetheart” man did I catch him off guard…lol If I may say this: Theory is more important than the shapely steel in our tool boxes. Learning theory is also a process of debate and not falling for “intuitive” the easy way out. When theory is not intuitive and we learn to understand this this is when we become solid in troubleshooting Ex: Velocity with volume or volume without velocity lack dynamics (real time) so knowing or assuming one without the other while may be correct mathematically provide no dynamic answers to the potential question: it simply is without dynamics; in other words means nothing individually. So with regards to troubleshooting combustion issues the math alone means nothing. Often we short cut this to Ratios then just say OH YA… No, the shortcut does teach theory; all the shortcut did was place a fish in the seekers hand, theory teaches one how to fish for himself No matter what the theories that made you- you, sharing that hard earned gift is what defines us. Is that not your recent experience here “Problem Child”? Diesel mechanics have to first learn theory to generate a baseline exaptation, and then separate the just rolled in problems to define the likely failings generating the issue (s) I’ve just spent 3 weeks having my ass handed to me by my Powerstroke. It crushed the gearbox on the starter, threw the dust protection placed over the turbo inlet at my head. WTF Can you derive the causes of that by those 2 hints? Yes it a diesel but the same issues can cross over to gas engines. I know saddlebum is laughing and knows what happened. Finding out why tho took a lot of theory, experience and logic, I could not of done without either. Believe it or not the mishap was corrected by adjusting one fastener to the correct torque spec 26 ft lbs ! Crazy right PS. I’m still heading east soonish Carl will know when I hit the road anyone is welcome to catch up with us Finally I like to say thanks for all the wins the newbies have brought to us over the years. As many of us know when we read, we see those that are willing to take a chance and dance with us, and those that just can’t or drop off. Like theory “what & why” are great starters to a thread, someone knows the why’s to the what’s so carry on debating and fill in the blanks Adios and see you’s out there

Yep, you're right, I missed that. Thanx

Alles

Could have been a loose connector on the wire?

Seems to be missing the rubber plugs, 2 required for each carb. Also check where these are made, it says shipped from Poland but doesn't say where they were made.

There be a hole there,,, keep cleaning!! It's not near clean enough yet.

Just sayin: can't teach an old dog new tricks

Hey!! I was going to say that!

It seems kind of odd the way that steering shaft is set up, but this is how I did it. Loosen nut #7. Now with a long punch, screwdriver or something similar tap lower nut #4 to set the torque. Check your progress, it don't need to turn much, a 1/16 " is a good start. When you think its good, tap the upper #4 nut so that it sets back on the lower one. There is a rubber o-ring in between the 2 nuts, and I haven't figured out the real meaning of having it there, but it's there so some engineer has made his daily wage. Now torque nut #7 back to speck and test again. You might have to go through this circus a few times to get things perfect. Always torque #7 before final decision for the pressure from #7 will move the #4 nuts just enough to cause a noticeable difference. When you are happy, carefully move the handle bars from side to side, just with your finger tips and see if you can feel any jumping, vibration, or such. Slowly and lightly!! If it feels anything else than perfectly smooth, it's time for a change.

You question that? Isn't it true BS, Isn't wobbly stable enough? and who would even start to question whether or not we are reliable,,, even the Roooster says we haven't changed.

Deep down in you know that's what made you come back. Everybody needs stability, truth and reliability.

I can second that motion!!! Take it apart, get new bearings. If I remember it takes a few hours but it's not that hard, faring can stay on.

Another Tri-Pod??

That'll cost yah!!

There's 2 areas where this could be coming from. One is the engine, the other less likely is the differential. Check the differential for oil level, and if it's down go from there.