Marcarl

OHHHHH,,, so they are loaded your saying?

Are those tires tubeless?

Well,,,, welcome to you. Hope this site is everything you want it to be.

So does this sound happen when the engine is running, or when it's off, or both. If it happens when the engine is off it has to be electrical, so then it's time to chase down the circuits.

It might be helpful to determine where the sound is coming from exactly, front of engine, back of engine, upper, lower, etc. Another approach would be to remove fuses one at a time to discover the circuit that is causing it, and then hopefully trace it closer to the point. Also removing the gas tank and/or seat might help you to locate it.

Lookin not so bad!!! Need more close-up pictures though.

It can be difficult to determine a noise once it's recorded and then played back, but it sounds like it might be the fuel pump.

It might yell at yah for a brief moment if you get on it hard, not a problem really. The sensor is not a pressure sensor but rather an oil level sensor. So when you crank on it then the oil in the pan will slosh to the back and cause a red light. No problem.

Looking better all the time, can't wait to see it complete.

The oil in the air box comes from having too much oil in the crankcase. Should be no more than halfway up the sight glass.

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Great to hear,,, Thanks for posting.

Keep in mind: If it ain't broke, don't try fixing it. And you have no idea how much we like helping those who need it. Some of us were born to be doctors, some politicians, some lawyers, some plumbers, some builders, some electricians, and some mechanics. If we all work together we can easily do what one alone would find difficult. Oh yah, after we all built the house we also need somebody that can live in it.

Too many people think that screws are there to be played with (any screw), and seeing as the idle circuit has very little to do with the running of the engine as long as things remain clean and un-obstructed, there should be very little reason to 'play' with them, but if you do, it could make it somewhat miserable for a nice idling power plant. Now if things get gummed up or dirty, then it's time to dig deeper, hence there is a screw and the cap can be removed. Note: if the carbs were cleaned and the screws were not removed and the circuit cleaned, then you just might be running into what you are presently experiencing.

Idle circuit adjustment screws are hidden behind a sealing plug.

The top right bolt looks like somebody made an attempt to drill it. Wonder who broke those bolts?

Any idea of how much fluid was in the reservoir by the handle?

Lets hope that they are as pretty as they look.

One question I would have is: where are the heads of those bolts? and another: what were they doing inn the middle drive area for a clutch issue?

Put the carbs in place so that they are still half hanging out of position, so just safely kind of sitting there ready to go further into the bike. Now hook the cables being sure that the return cable is on the inside of the rod with the plastic bushing on it. Once hooked, move the carbs in place.

I can hear it now already: Didn't I tell you to go fishing,,,, annnnd what did you bring me???? NOTHING???? Just where did you go?? What WERE you doing???

If it runs awesome,,,, then,,, if it ain't broke, why fix it.

Be allowed to go fishing??? or told to go fishing!!

The way I found this out and how nicely it works is to travel down the road using the right hand track. Nice to do this with no traffic. As you travel, sit straight up in the seat, don't move one way or the other, then lightly push on the left handle bar, just lightly and only for less than a second. See what happens. Just use your fingers, not the full hand.

Do you have the RR replaced yet? If not then you are running on low voltage and that will cause low spark. If you haven't adjusted the carbs after cleaning them then it's high time that gets done,,, a carb sync and idle air adjustmnet.