Marcarl

You don't need air with progressives. My guess is the same as Black Owl, air is not getting to the forks. How long does it take to pump up 17 lbs?

I'm using stock (1985) radio and amp with a 1986 CB. The noise was there before I installed the CB, so I'm guessing that's not it. I've run ground wires from the amp and radio to the chassis and have good ground. I've tried rerouting wires but it don't seem to make no never mind.

I realize that static in the headsets is often caused by where the leads are routed, but I have not discovered as to why one day the static is totally unreaonable and the next day it cannot be detected. No wires have been moved, infact, nothing has been done to my scoot except the fact that it has rested for 2 whole days, all by itself without any companionship. Now seeing as we have well over 2000 members on this forum it seems to me that someone might have an explanation for this.

I agree with Condor, you're mileage seems low to have this problem. Mine had 45000 miles on it before it started to slip, I would check out other things first.

Make sure he didn't do an oil change and over fill it.

Take the controller apart and clean the buttons, one is probably stuck and keeping you from sending other signals to the radio. You might also check the connectors and clean them good.

It should upshift just fine without the clutch, so if it don't do that right I would suggest it's not the clutch. To think that the trans would be at fault would not seem right either, so that leaves the linkage. My shifter linkage isn't too tight either, but it shifts perfect, maybe you played with the linkage too much and got it too perfect. Just my thoughts Carl

Could be just a routing of the wires, put them somewhere different and problem ?MAY BE? solved

Around here PCV glue is yellow and doesn't match black very well. Shave some PCV pipe and mix with Acetone as mentioned, works wonders, but does set very quickly, practise first and you'll love it and it works on all your plastic. Plastex is much neater and can be used without almost no finishing, has more uses and ready made, and can be used for many different plastics. I also comes in different colors.

Thanks Squeeze. Now to further the question, if 13.5 oz is the majic number and you have only 12 oz in the forks but it travels well, doesn't bottom out or rise to the top is everything then ok?

I'm gonna tell Don about you. Here a guy posts a perfectly interesting question, something everybody is dieing to hear the answer to and you go and make fun of me. I feel totally depressed, took me all day to get the words right and the courage to write it all down and now I get this for an answer, and I don't even like oil in my salad. Now back to the real meat of things. What's bad about having the wrong amount of oil in your salad,,,,, uhhmmm forks.

On the fork oil thought. What happens if you put too little oil in the forks, and how much too little is not enough, and what happens when there isn't enough, or the other way around, what happens if you have too much and how much is too much and what happens if there is too much? Exactly what does fork oil do? and how does all that work?

First thing I would check would be the voltage in the battery, should be 12.5 or at least 12. Then check the voltage when you a turning it over and see the amount of drop, not sure on the number here but less than 10 would be a problem. That would indicate a heavy draw from the starter and not leave enough to fire the plugs. Loose battery connections may be the culprit or even not enough voltage coming from the stator. If you have a lot of extra electrical running you may not be getting enough charge and so your battery will not be fully charged when you shut it down.

We'll tell him about the kill switch next???????

Looks like I'll be replacing the one on my 85 you can have it. It has a real deep scratch in it that makes all others disappear. Let me know if your interested and we'll work out a price.

Had the same problem last week and discovered the solution. Here's what you need to do. Take off the rear wheel, remove the seat and gas tank, loosen the engine so you move it side ways a little, remove front wheel, forks and steering gear. Not sure how to proceed from this point, but seeing as it's now in easy shippable pieces, you may ship all the parts to my place. I'll make some time to get it all back together and running real pretty. I'll polish it up and give it a good test run before I'll call you to say that it's ready for pickup.

When I bought mine there seemed to be a variety of choices, so I guess it depends on what you have, Go with what you have and what info is given here, looks like I may be a wayyyy out to lunch.

There's a chrome ring around the glass part that holds the glass to the chrome bucket. Remove the ring and catch the glass as it may fall out. It may also be a little sticky so you may nee to pry it off once the chrome ring is removed. Pull out the glass and in the back of the light you'll find a bulb fitting, push down, twist, and remove and there is you're bulb. Your fitting will probably have a 3 prong on it so that you can only put it back one way. Don't know the number of the bulb, but it only takes a few minutes to check and different lights may have different bulbs anyways. If you have eyebrows on your lights this is how you reinstall: Put light into holder top side up (writing should be straight up) install chrome ring losely with screw just started enough to keep the ring from falling off, slide eyebrow under ring starting at the split in the bottom, slide eyebrow into position and tighten chrome ring. Hope this helps.

Yep, something that needs attention as much as brake pads, smething there doesn't feel right, adjust it fix it, your life depends on it.

What do we make cagers think when we share the road, and related thoughts. Often and most time we blame the cager for not seeing us. This maybe true, but no matter who's to blame for the mishaps or near mishaps, riders still end up with the short end of the stick, and are the ones who have to deal with the worst aftermath. How to minimize these situations is an ongoing discussion and I would like to add to it from a different point of view. First, lets accept the fact that an accident is the fault of those involved, in our case the rider and the cager. We all know that the cager will not 'see us', so it's up to us to avoid being hit. The cager is no help in this department. With that in mind here's my thoughts: TWO LANE ROAD: 1) Always ride the left hand track, in the right hand track we get lost in the scenery and we tell others that we are not really a contender in the traffic. 2) When approaching an intersection and you have a left turner coming toward you, stay in the left hand track. If you move over to the right hand track you are telling the cager that you are making a right turn, and guess what, he's going first, and right into your path cutting off all chance of escape. If you stay in the left track and he does turn in front of you, you have a chance of going behind him. However small that opening may be, it’s may be the only one you’ve got. 3) When traveling down the road stay with the traffic speed. You are telling the cager that you are part of his environment and not just something to get out of the way. Keep your left track and block your lane. If you move to the right track you are telling them: I’m trying to give you room to pass me, try it if you think it’s ok and take me out in the process. It also gives you a better vision to the front and traffic coming towards you are also aware of your presence and so have to contend with you. 4) Always and always block your lane. You paid for it as much as anyone else, you have a right to it and it’s yours to use to your full advantage. 5) When making a right hand turn never use the right hand track, in doing so you are telling the cager that it’s ok for him to try and squeeze by you, but often times there’s not quite enough room and over you go. 6) When making a left turn use the center right track and so block your lane. Sure the cager has to wait to go past you, but then he does for anyone else as well so why not for you. If he knows he’s going to take you out he will contend with you, but if he can put you on the side in his mind, you’re the one who deals with the problems. Further more if the cager thinks that he can scoot past you and stay on the pavement he will, force him to leave the pavement and he will give you a wider berth. 7) Never give a cager the idea that you may even want to share your lane with him, it’s yours, you paid for it, at present you own it and are using it and he’s to keep away from you. 8) When stopped at a light or stop sign, tell others by your action that you own the lane, park crosswise in the middle if that’s what it takes, just don’t let anyone even think that there may be a chance that they could squeeze by. FOUR LANE, Two lanes in either direction. I find that sometimes it feels safer in the right and other times safer in the left. I’m not really stuck on the one vs. the other. 1) When in the right lane be visible and use the left track, when in the left lane be just as visible and use the right track. Again, let others know that you intend to be a contender in traffic and they will have to deal with you. This may seem to be an aggressive way of thinking and doesn’t fly with the thought that we are super vulnerable. We are super vulnerable and should never forget that fact, but that doesn’t mean that we need to tell the cager that. Let him know that we are part of the world he has to deal with and it will be much harder for him to put us aside mentally. 2) When passing continue to use the proper tracks. You may feel safer in the other track, but you won’t be taking over your rightful lane, you will be unnoticed, and therefore uncared for. 3) When doing an exit, continue to claim your right to your lane as long as possible, nobody will run you down, but if you fade to the right to try and get out the way then others will take your lane away from you before they should. These are just some thoughts, hopefully helpful, but I’m not an expert by any stretch of the imagination. Lets use this to start a discussion and to educated each other more fully. Got some helpful insight? Some good pointers? Type away and help the rest of us as well.

That was well worth the 2 hr download Here's the translation for the captions: This film is meant to warn of the possible dangers that could happen on the road. 1 out of 10 roads users is a rider. In 70% of MC \ cage accidents the cager didn't see or seen the rider too late. Not enough cagers figure MC into the daily traffic pattern. MC must realize their vulnerable postion in traffic A MC is vulnerable Riders have more difficulty with road hazzards such as pot holes, branches, wild life, than what cagers do. About 20% of auto accidents are fatal. About 60% of MC accidents are fatal. Because of his small profile the rider seems to be farther away than he really is. Riders often use the engine as a brake and so fail to show a brake light. In MC jargon the guardrail is seen as a guilotine or french fry cutter. Painted lines are slippery business. IN MEMEORY OF OUR FRIENDS.

I like it, says it well.

DIDDO:thumbsup2: :thumbsup2:

What to do, What to say? I'm in a daze, all I can do is pray for you all May your Shepherd fill you with a peace that passes all understanding.

The one most important lesson I was taught at rider training, and probably put that way because we think of it too late as an afterthought: