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Marcarl

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Everything posted by Marcarl

  1. Looks like that will work pretty good, thanks for posting.
  2. Changing the computer would be a good thing if possible. As for using LEDs without the change and putting in a resistor, what benefit are you looking for. If you're looking to save power the resistor negates that, if you're looking for more intense light you need to get the LEDs on the outside or the lense. I have extra LEDs on the back and front of my scoot and have now added 1157s in the taillight, brake light fixture. If I didn't have extras on the outside of the fixture I would not run with just LEDs in the fixture. The brake light just doesn't stand out that well. MHO Carl
  3. I can't get neutral form 1st so mostly I just go to 2nd and then drop it into neutral, works much easier and I'm not the only one who finds this so it may be somewhat common. Works though.
  4. OHHHH you think oil is slippery on the brakes, you is now on a very slippery slope youself, I really do think we should all have a meeting with you and try to prevent you from doing any massive injury to your body or mind. It sure feels good to be right once though. Got any more problems? I think I maybe on a roll.
  5. Thanks for the report, it makes an interesting read. Hope all is well now.
  6. Not when we need to help some else who's having trouble, that comes first.
  7. Check the fuses first. Open the gas cover, undo the screw that holds the false cover in place, remove the cover then on top of the battery is your fuse box. Check not only if the fuses are good but also that they are making contact with the holder. Some of the holders are getting weak and so the fuse may look like it's doing it's job but actually is loose. To fix this problem right you need to replace the fuse box or at least the contacts which you may get at CTC or an automotive parts supply.
  8. That's where I would go looking, or check the splines in the pumpkin, but that should have been done when the tire was off.
  9. Looks real handie, how high will it lift?
  10. My first thought is that when it was lastly installed it was over torqued. Then, over time with heating and cooling, it would snap or break. Torque specks are there for a reason, this being one of them. I can see no other reason for it to break seeing as there is no tension or otherwise any flexing going on.
  11. Marcarl

    there is a god

    Some lucky deer I'd say. Notice the leap into the air once she noticed how close she came to getting ? She could have jumped right over the bike. WOW
  12. I would just use a sray bottle with clean water. Start the bike up, let it warm well, and then start spraying around, Take your time moving from palce to place and soon you'll find the culprit.
  13. Just take the fork to him and let him play with it, if he doesn't have a replacement then take the old one to your local bolt and nut dealer, they should be able to match it up for you.
  14. Next time either boost it with the cage or just let it charge for about ten minutes, then with the charger still running, get on it and start it up. It should go with the extra 'boost' coming from the charger, unless you only have a trickle charger, then you're stuck with a boost from the cage. I just think you really wanted stay home and watch the painter work.
  15. Shipping costs are outrageous
  16. When I bought my 85 there rear brakes were also a problem, which in my case was solved by tightening the hose clamps from the resevoir to the master cyclinder under the right hand side cover and then bleeding. Hope yours is as easy. Pull the air filter and check it for dirt and while you have it off start the bike and while blipping the throttle look into each carb and see if the sliders move. I they don't, they need work or replacement, lots of info on that here as well, just do a search on - diaphrams. Let us know how you make out and the problems you have, we read this site more often than the funnies.
  17. Some more some less but it does seem common. Maybe the oil used is somewhat of the equation.
  18. I use chain lube for my swing arm. Didn't know if it would work but after 2 seasons I'm happy. I drilled a wee hole into the greasing areas, just the right size to squeeze (sorry Squeeze) in the tube that comes with the spray can. I take the load off of the rear and lay down on a piece of cardboard, and in 2 minutes have all the bearings dripping with grease. My therory is that the chain lube with it's propellant will work into much smaller areas than comparitively heavy grease. I do this everytime I change the oil and so far so good. Mind you, if your swing arm has not been off before, the whole situation may be different, I would suggest to drill the holes, insert the chain lube and bounce it up and down a number of times and then do it again. After this I would check to see where the chain lube is leaking from and so determine whether it's done the job or needs further attention. Drilling these small holes will not effect having to put zerks in later, if desired, because the holes are much smaller.
  19. Did it go back together easy or was it a lot of fun? The shifter linkage behind the cover needs to in the up position, it likes to be in the down position due to gravity but you need to keep an eye it to make sure it's right.
  20. Careful it don't fall off:rotf: Looks like what HD puts on theirs
  21. With 2 up I have no problem with 1200 rpm, but it will take off from idle, 1000, if I'm carefull. Normally I just clear the carbs with a little blip on the throttle and we're away.
  22. Haven't had a real runin with demons lately, but if you're selling I ain't buying. I would think ignition switch as well as the 'demon' seems to be centrally located. Don't know how 2nd gens are put together, but off hand I would pull the plug on the back of the switch and use a jumper in the plug to see if things will happen normal like. If they seem normal then I would replace the switch.
  23. Just to keep the record straight, an 87 is a first gen.
  24. Radio off or on? or maybe the early warning signal for peg scapping.
  25. So if it's really the clutch basket does it whine at a cetain RPM not matter what gear you're in? If it's not RPM related then in my opinion it has to be in the tranny and not the clutch. Maybe this is why some have luck with a basket change and others do not.
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