Marcarl

Yep,,, we obviously know how to do it right, but we also want to helpful to those who don't know or understand the right directions, so seeing as we are familiar to both we can use what suits best.

take a close look at the boots to make sure they are properly seated. Look all around and then look again, you'll need a light. Check both top and bottoms. They can be a pain to seat 100 % proper.

Are the boots cracked?

Guess what you might call the cable, the inner flex shaft.

Most of us run 87.

Take the old insert out and toss it. Form a plastic washer to fit in the connection, Screw it together. It doesn't have to be leak proof, just dust resistant. Hope you ate replacing the jacket as well as the insert.

A movement of 1/32 of an inch will make a world of difference. Don't go too fast if it's not right, can be very dangerous, deadly!

Check the progressive website for best info. So many inches to the top of the tube.

Guess that is not the answer then.

The one seal would be grooved, the other I think is flat. Grooved to the outside.

That looks to be the ATS I think it's called. Was used to 'balance' the carbs somehow, but I don't think it done what is was really meant to or thought to do. Most guys took it out and either linked the carbs together with tubing or plugged the ports altogether. There should be a port for each carb on it somewhere. JMT.

There you go! Good answer!

Yep. You can become a paid member with all the benefits. Home page, top, store, subscriptions and pay the fee. Only $12 US per year.

Top of the home page, the very top, go to store and then subscriptions. There you may pay your entrance fee.

I don't think you'll get much higher than 13.5. 12.8 shows a good battery after sitting all night, 12.6 is a full battery.

On a second look, there does seem to be 2 numbers that are needed to complete the rebuild. Somebody more knowledgeable needs to chime in here.

I only see one kit. Cheaper at: https://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/oemparts/a/yam/5004d6cef87002275461d662/rear-brake-caliper

Personally I would just put the OEM pipes on and then go from there. The PO might not have re-jetted.

If the bearings feel stiff I would suggest they will be too tight and you will find the bike constantly wanted and going it's own way. There should be barely any noticeable drag as you move the bars, but there needs to be some. So the book calls for 5.1 foot lbs on the lower nut, but only finger tight on the next nut. Then when you torque the top nut down it will give just the right amount of pressure to the whole assembly including the nuts. When this procedure is done it's also said to loosen off the pinch bolts for the forks, that way any fork pressure or resistances are minimized.

No play is wanted, none! The steering head acts as a steering damper.

Keep up the good work and you'll love riding it.

Keep an eye on the Trump episode, there maybe more to come. The USA has fulfilled a lot of reruns from the old testament and may also get into similar for the new testament. You all have my attention. In this case Trump almost died, and years ago a soldier did as well, but just lost an ear,,,, temporarily.

That's a hard decision but am glad you made it. Great of you to give it away!

If it shimmy's at 75 then it will also do that at 50 or 30, but the right occasion hasn't been able to set it off just yet, You need to fix that!!