Marcarl

I just looked and you don't seem to be here,,,, so that's good I think. I just asked Marca and she didn't see you either,,, even better maybe.

seems you are missing out on all the snow fun

If what you mean is the mixture screw, it's not so hard as you might think. 2.5 turns out gets you in the right area. First you need to balance/sync the carbs, then set the mixture screws, back to sync the carbs and then re-set the mixture. For this you will need at least one vacuum gauge, but it's much easier to sync the carbs with a carb sync tool. For setting the sync all carbs need to be drawing the same amount of vacuum so that will ensure that they all are carrying an equal burden of weight when it comes to torque or HP. The idle mixture screws will and can adjust the fuel mixture that goes into each cylinder at idle, and once off of idle that idle circuit in the carb has less and less effect on the whole mixture situation. Fact is that once over 1500 rpm you wouldn't notice any difference in the running of the engine if you did adjust the mixture screws at that speed. Now if the idle circuit is set too lean you might find that response time from idle to running will be slow or it may hesitate, too rich and it may cough a bit to get going, but as long as you have it in the right area mostly you'll be quite happy. When setting the idle mixture with a vacuum gauge you will be looking for the highest possible vacuum at 900 rpm, not any faster or you will be into the running circuit and not much slower either or the vacuum won't be stable. For each carb the idle must be set back to or up to 900rpm. Hope this helps

That sure would, even if we got a camper tied on the back.

He lives in Woodstock, not Kitchener!!

Before going through the CDI routine take off the air boxes and while it running spray some carb cleaner or brake clean or even WD40 into the intakes. If you notice an improvement through this process then you have a fuel issue, not an ignition issue.

Pardon me for asking, but is this a new switch or a used one?

The idle mixture screws are set at about 2 to 2.5 turns out, but that is only a starting point. These are not to be confused with the ,idle set screw, which is the one that is hard to find and there is only one. To set the idle mixture screws my process is: sync the carbs then with a vacuum gauge set the idle mixture at the highest possible vacuum, then sync the carbs again and then back to adjust the mixture screws again, and if I have more time I'll do it all again. I have a 4 port vacuum gauge that stays hooked up to do this process. If the engine isn't getting enough fuel at idle then it will be a bit sluggish getting itself up and going, but once the carbs are into the running circuit then the idle circuits have less of an impact. All this is done with the engine rpm kept at 900.

Always interesting to think about, not that I think much, I usually just do things off the top of my head, and sometimes that gets me trouble in the butt, not that I have much of a butt, but what I got is mine so it comes along. Where are we going?

Having good compression may not have anything to do with a noisy rod, but sometimes it might, in other words: inconclusive. But a compression test is always interesting enough to do.

94% maybe

Start with the carbs. After all they have been through and the story you shared, I bet something isn't right in there. Take them off, open them up, throughly clean them and make sure the right jets are in the proper ports, then set the floats and check all linkages and connections. Don't go by what you see when you take them apart, go by the specs.

I really like the look of the first picture, those swirly marks are an awesome design. Oh well, guess it's not my scooter. Next pictures look more traditional, nice work.

Maybe one of the floats is loaded?

If you have a known issue, then clean that up first, then you can go looking for more without having to wonder if maybe, just maybe one issue plays on another.

Add to all that, if you lower the pressure because you ride all highway you might find that very comfortable until you decide on a whim to do a twisty or two and find out that the rear gets squirrely,,, yep, now you have too low a pressure for that exercise.,,,, so somewhere in-between maybe??? always a bit of a guessing game.

Hey!!! now that's a picture,,,,, bet I'll be old sometime as well when I get grey hair!!

If there are progressive springs in the front then they suggest no air needed, but i'm with Spencer.

So now that you have all that info, dig deeper. Accurately measure your tread in 3 places around the tire, center and sides. Write it down and maybe even mark the tire were you measured so that down the road you know exactly where to measure again. Sometime from now, re-measure and see what that tells you what the contact patch is. That might come into play as well.

Each one of us has an angel watching over us, you had 2 angels present and were aware enough to listen. Don't discount the angels, we may not see them but they are real.

Don is no long haired hippy,,,,, how dare you??!!

Consider: The faster you spin the tire the more it will stretch out, so the rounder it gets, and the less contact patch. Max psi on the side wall is posted in conjunction with the load bearing rate, also on the side of the tire. Also the speed rating is on the side of the tire. Wear on the treads indicates the amount of contact patch mostly used. IMHO: The pressure indicated along with the other numbers helps one figure out what pressure should be used, so if your are only loading to half the specified rating the pressure can be reduced to maintain a contact patch that is at a safe and operable range. You can't go half pressure for half load though for when you reduce pressure then more spec's come into play such as heat and flexibility. I have been informed that it is never a good idea to over pressurize a tire because as you use them heat builds up and may then rise to a higher amount than what the tire was designed for and cause failure. Hot pressure is never mentioned because that can be very variable, so measure cold and run with it, but stay below the speed rating.

Good point as well.