Marcarl

Let's hope it works out for you.

On another look at your tool, I think I see little valves at each gauge do I not. If you close those valves down they will act as restrictors.

Things were more pleasant when you were working,,,, what time do you start today?

Not most,,, just some, but that's all right, hate to have everybody knocking on my door eh.

OOOoooooo!!! PRACHTIG!!!

Carl was 2 minutes away,,, thanks for stopping by.

My recollection is that I run into the same issue some years ago, and discovered at the time that it goes with the gasket as you indicate. It really doesn't do much good in the curved body of the carb throat in MHO. Not only that, but it looks weird.

You will need to put restrictors in the lines to get those gauges to settle down so that real time vacuum can be read.

Those gauges are adjustable but you will still need to make sure they read the same.

Fancy looking tool, nice case as well. Just be sure to match all gauges before you use them each time. When you sync the carbs it's important to have them all at the same vacuum, which is not the same as the highest possible vacuum, so they all have to be dead on with each other. You need to hook them all to the same cylinder at the same time somehow, or have another source of vacuum so they can be tested and calibrated.

Stick with it, we're watching to make sure it comes to life again.

If you still have the factory resistor, just use it. Hook the wire to the positive post. Do not hook up without any resistor.

You are still missing on one cylinder sounds like. It's time to sync the carbs to get a better handle on things. You can't sync by looking at the sliders, you'll need a sync tool for that, as well as setting the idle mixture screws properly.

Yep, that will sure be a change. Just don't expect to do more than what you are able, but keep up the exercise. Always doing something. Wishing you two the best as life brings challenges.

We went with a pellet grill. Love that thing, except it takes a bit longer in the cold weather to heat up. Summertime though, it heats up quickly.

Sounds to me like it is still missing on at least one.

You can say that again!!

You will need to pull the engine, turn it upside down, remove the oil pan and then deal with what you run into. It's a bit of a job, but very interesting. The engine and transmission share the same oil and oil pan. The sooner you do it, the less further damage there will be. Come back for more info and encouragement.

I may have some here if you can't find any else where. Need to know the size though to make sure.

Shows like that can be very lucrative for the organizers. Maybe just making some money in the process is not good enough anymore. The counts will be down and it may not produce the influx of cash desired, after all, it's not really about the visitors, it's all about the income. On the other hand if it looks like it might loose money, then it's time to pull the plug.

Being that they are what they claim to be, be prepared to do it all over again not too long fro now.

Looks clean enough, just make sure you don't get any water in there and fill up each time you fuel. As well as leaving a full tank when it sits.

Yep,, got a leak somewhere. Check the float levels. Hook a clear hose to each drain cock running them up above the carbs, open the drain cocks and turn on the ignition to let the fuel pump fill the bowls. When the pump shuts off, if it does, then you can see the level of fuel in the bowls. If the pump keeps ticking, even occasionally over 3 o4 minutes you have a leak.

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