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calperin

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Everything posted by calperin

  1. calperin
    I only saw the 1st one. The second pic posted is greatest :rotf::rotf:
  2. calperin
    I can tell you, I had same colors and I get from 950 to 1400$ quotes. Now, I got someone that will do that with some plastics repairs for around 600$. Still I don't know if I'll do original colors or may be grey honda & black. Winter task, plus rechrome some parts. Regards
  3. calperin
    I was never able to put more than 4 1/2 gallons. I never had the unit sensor problem, but I agree that most of the time I have to refill the tank after 160 to 180 miles. If I was all the time on highways, then I can say 210 miles. (If I was able to use it on 4th & 5th gears most of the time). And yes, I agree take of the sensor unit and clean it. Do that before decide to buy a new one. That will advise you also, how dirt are you able to find on the gas tank, which leads you to change gas filter too. Regards,
  4. calperin
    Carlos...I just installed a over-ride fan switch in my '83. I wired the switch to be in parallel with the fan relay contacts. So if for some reason the relay fails, my switch will still turn on the fan. That is exactly what I did. I had an added cable since we went to don's on June, so all that I add was a switch (apart from the new thermal switch), if temps goes up, I only need to press the switch and the fan will work immediatly. Nothing like automation, when automation needs human intervention.... :225:
  5. calperin
    Great, but I finished to pay 86$ for an original one. I would like to knew about this three weeks ago. Good idea any way, I put in paralell a switch to ground to avoid future problems.
  6. calperin
    Are you guys talking about the intercomm button on the Radio controller? The one that is close to the intercomm volume?
  7. calperin
    What is the switch that you are talking about? where is located? I finished replacing the full audio installation, and I didn't see any switch like that. Regards,
  8. calperin
    Hey, I read during the developing of your griefs, that someone said that thermal gauge is the one with the flat end. WRONG.... The one with the flat end is the thermal switch. the conic end is the termal sensor. Any way, you cannot mess with the ends, that is the reason one is conic the other is flat, but if you read a lot on this forum, that is not warranty of anything... Also, check that the housing aluminum piece is well grounded (small cable on the top of the housing piece. No ground no fan no temperature on the pannel >>>>>> NEW ENGINE AFTER So be use to check grounds on this bike. Regards,
  9. calperin
    Maybe Saddle_bag wants to try to convert it to a jet sky?
  10. calperin
    When I bought my 84'VR was in storage for 2 years, gas completely barnished. However, SeaFoam let me run it anyway. However, as soon as I put new gas I have a full new bike. Regarding ruber parts gone on the carburetors, then I 'm running my bike without rubber parts since I bought it, and it runs fine. Regards,
  11. calperin
    Before to do anything else, resawder the connections on the board of the CLASS control. 99% are false reading due to false contact. Poor contact on the board plus mechanically not prepared to the vibration of the bike. Regards,
  12. calperin
    The advantage with platex is that you can mold the part and will have the exact shape of the original if you have one in good shape to mold it. Everything comes with the product. It dries really strong. I tried everything else before, and fiinishing on this is almost perfect :cool10:
  13. calperin
    Hey, It seems like the bikes on the Mad Max movies!!! Looks wear. Regards
  14. calperin
    I suggest you to try fix the pins with Plastex. I tried and work perfect. Regarding the rubber part, Yamaha still sell those. I'll check if still I have a spare. Regards,
  15. calperin
    I got that problem when I bought my 84'VR about two years ago. If you take off the left side cover that holds the radio & the cassette player, you will see that the controls are connected through two blue plastic multipin terminals. One bigger than the other one. You need to start one by one to look for false connections or bended pins, that are not doing contact with the other side of the connector. That is the reason for the false contact, that with the bike on motion lost and reconnects some times. Good Luck Hey, what are you doing with my bike???? We have same style & color bikes.
  16. calperin
    NLAlston, If you put a relay, and your horns work, or if you want to put additional highlights, you better contact Squidley for the brakets that holds the horns and the highlights. I didn't replace my horns, just update cables & relay circuit. More than enough. I have a 84'VR. Regards,
  17. calperin
    IF you have a multimeter, put it on VDC. Be sure that red test cable is on the VOA connector and the black test cable is on the COMMON or GROUND. I assume that you have a DIGITAL VoltMeter. If not you need to be carefull with the polarity, since if you reverse it you can see the nail going below cero, turning itself destroying the instrument. Put the test cables (Red & Black) on each one of the connectors of the horn (Doesn't matter wich horn). And then press the horn button. You should be able to see the result on the LCD display, or on the scale according the VDC you choosed. On the Digital ones should stay VDC above 20 VDC, on the analog ones, anything with more than 20 V is ok, but don't go to high or you will not be able to see the difference between 10 volts or 15 volts.
  18. calperin
    Condor, remember that the original circuit is floating from the physical ground. That is why there is two cables, and none of them is attached to the chasis. On my case, that discarded the bad ground. with the horn physically free all the horns blowed really high. Regards,
  19. calperin
    I understand what Condor says, but on my case with the horns attached directly to the bracket didn't worked with 2 different kinds of horns (Original & FIAM). Yes, put the flat piece attached to the back bolt of the horn, and the other part to the bracket (This is the way that I did). To be sure if the problem is the wiring or the bracket, simply release the horn and test it. You will see if return to work or keeps not working. If you have a voltmeter (tester), check the voltage on the horn when you push the button. Should be more than 11 volts (Normally between 12 to 14.4V). If there is no voltage, or it is low, Carbon One has right. Connect the button to a standar relay, and bring a cable from the battery to the relay, and from the relay direct to both horns. If nothing works, PepBoys has FIAM horns for 19.00$ or stebel kind for 50.00$ Stebel Italy has a model air propelled but like the FIAM style. I couldnt find it in US. Let me know if this help you. Regards, :stirthepot:
  20. calperin
    One stupid question: (I mean stupid due to I did this before) Did you take of the metal holder piece that let the horn vibrate freely? Is a flat piece (may be with two or three layers of thin metal) that hold the horn to the bike structure. If you did that, I have a solution: PUT IT BACK, AND THAT IS IT.... Is not an electrical problem, the horns need vibration capability to work. I put the headlights & horn brackets that squidly makes, and put the horns agains them (No holders of course) and no sound almost,. Then I bought two FIAM horns (Mercedes Benz originals) and it comes with thouse flat holder, that of course I take off, and again nothing. Then I decide to test the horn, so I release completely from the bracket and it BLOWS!!!! Final step, I return the FIAM horns to the auto-store, found the original brackest, put it back between the bracket and the horns, and now magically I have two strong original horns working. :cool10:
  21. calperin
    These are my two pennies: As everyone says, all seems to fall apart. False, after tons of patiente (Usually I don't have it), and comprehension on the problem I found that: First is fix the broken parts (OUT OF DISCUSSION) Second is put a teflon washer between fairing & metal holders (bike estructure) to minimize the pressure that bolts generate against the plastic. Also replace the metal washer with another teflon washer (outside blacks are less noticeable) improves support and avoid craks. At least it worked for me during the last two years. Keep this on your memory till 2019 Brad. You will need it. Regards,
  22. calperin
    Ok, there we go. Handle control (Station Fast Search & Mute) I'm working on put an original CB on a 1984, that has not wiring for all the functions, but I have a wiring for 1986 what I'll strip for this. Regards,
  23. calperin
    Well, I have an idea about how to fix the CB, and probably modify the wiring to include the 86-93 left handle with the PTT button & the rider controller. The only reason that stopped to go to J&M is (That is the weakest side of J&M) you need two modules to have all functionallity. The CB module is very complete, but only has a connection for an audio device: MP3, XM Radio, you named then connect it. Now, the other is the radio AM/FM, MP3, etc... (At this step of technology, everything should be on the same box) However, I spent more in e-bay that the price of the J&M and the module. Stupid obsession to have everything original way. I deserve to have the bike painted pink & orange.... :sick::sick::sick:
  24. calperin
    Really I love to enhance features & keep my bike on good shape. But really to get parts from responsable sources looks to be impossible. A year ago I got a wiring cabling from a 1986 VR, toghether with their fairing and structure in order to prepare to migrate it due to the headlight problem on the 83-85s with low visibility. This year I spent a lot trying to get as original as I can with an original CB radio, rider handle control and another accesories. Full FIASCO!!! CB doesn't work, CLASS reports E-4, and plastic broken. Good thing is as Electronic Engineer, I will go through this, but the only idea to re-ensamble everything back, put the OEM CB back not connected yet to the Amplifier, until I can go through this really make me seek, overall when I wast a full weekend putting all the pieces togheter. I start to believe that cheaper & better should be install a J&M system, and forget everything else. Even trying to get the 6 pin cable wiring was a PITA!!! (pain in the a...) Thanks a lot to all the supposed salers of tested parts.
  25. calperin
    I have progressives on the front, and I never put more than 7 psi on the fronts. If I do that, I can fell the street on my hands as if I'm riding on top of a rock. (Flintstone's bike) And the back, with the standard one, allways take two o three times more than the front ones. Regards,
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