Mike G in SC

Thanks MikeWa, I talked to Dion this morning. He checked the schematic circuitry and, yes, it could be the starter relay, Which seems to be below the passenger left foot board area. His other guess was perhaps the contact inside the black start button it's self. I have taken the control box off the handle bar and sprayed contact cleaner. He suggested pulling that button contact apart to use a file on the contact. I'll see how the spray cleaner does first. I looked inside and don't want to launch spring loaded parts. Right now, I can not get it to fail. That's good,,, mostly. Again, thanks, I may go to that relay to know what/where it is. Do you know if its a relay I can get at a parts store or a Yamaha special part? Mike G.

Dion, I swapped emails with Steve K. He said you sell a plug and play ignition relay kit? You still make those? Thanks, Mike G

Adding a relay for the Ignition. Only referenced the passing lamps because they may also be using the circuit. (don't know if they are). Dion, the problem is intermittent ignition. I have found a number of VR threads discussing adding the relay to take some load off the ignition. I can do as they instruct. But I don't know if that will cure the current problem. I'm wondering if the bypass SWITCH concept will allow me to override the problem if it persists. (Adding a toggle switch between the red and brown/blue wires.) Or do I just need to clean a connection or contact? Thanks, Mike G.

In the last week my 2006 RSTD has had intermittent start problems. Starts fine most of the time, the next time, not start but hear a very faint single click. May have to hit the start button a few times and then, so far, it will start. Not like a starter click (on low battery), more like a relay. I don't see this getting better. Years ago, the dealer did replace the ignition switch when it was having similar issues. But I do not remember a click then. (But this is not key action or kill switch, it is hit or miss on the starter button.) Also, the dealer installed passing lamps years ago which may contribute to the issue, assuming it's using same circuitry. So, I am looking at Carbon One's tech write up on putting in a 30 amp relay. He shows how to install it. (below link) He also says that some folks install a toggle switch between two of the involved wires. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?75398-By-passing-the-Ignition-switch So,,, Do I need to put in a relay,,,, or do I need to put in a bypass toggle? Or both? And, is this the likely fix? (And, no I have not tried cleaning contact points or connections, yet.) Thanks, Mike G in SC

I'm not hopeful for anything. I've moved on to a GW trike.

A STAR friend called me today. Said Yamaha dealers are told the the mother-ship is announcing two bikes June 8, noon Eastern,,,, this year. His dealer thinks,,, one is some kind of tourer. Yep,,,,.

I kind of gave up chasing and just get the K&N (KN-303). No argument that it will do fine and is now more available in the last year or so. (Amazon, Advance, Auto Zone. Not yet at my Walmart) And,,, as I used today,,, has a 17mm nut. Same size as our oil plug.

as in I-LEAN ? A man should never name a bike after his wife, cause one may leave him on the side of the road.

Can't name just one when you got two.

Ohhhhhhh, I found the rain as I headed home. My Pool is four inches deeper than when I left home. Yep, above I-95,,, at I-20 exit 92.

Good to see you, Joe and Bobby, again. Nice meeting you, Jeff and Ricky. Hope all got to their destinations safe this evening. Glad I came in car. Just like this morning, coming back rain started at I-95 and continued to home, so 50 miles of it. And there was a construction spot on I-20 that I sat (in car) for 30 minutes watching it fall. I did see a biker parked under a bridge,,, could have been me. See you guys again, Mike G in SC

Same thing happened to me about December. I also posted on this forum in a previous thread. I will link it if I can find it, may contain some advice. (found it: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?116780-Windows-10-Install ) So, yep, woke up in the morning with a "welcome to W10" screen. I had to let it finish. I like it. Also, the problems I was having with screen freezes from W7 IE are gone. But, my screen is so similar to W7,,, there is not much to miss. IF your desktop looks like a tablet instead of your old desktop you can change that quick. (Tablet is that dumbass tile window from W8.) Click the START window bottom left. Click SETTINGS near the bottom. Click the SYSTEM icon. Click on TABLET MODE. and,,,,, turn that sucker off. Microsoft has a nature to screw up every other OS. This one is good.

Here's an observation. A couple of months ago I changed my 2009 RSV and 2006RSTD from Amsoil 10W40 (used since I got them) to Shell Rotella T6. Did this on many folks recommendation, here, other forums and friends. Did it for cost, availability and curiosity. But I noticed on the RSV that, once the bike is warmed up, changing gears has become clunkier sounding. No slipping, no other problems but making more like a HD clunk going from second to third and third to fourth. Not as noticeable from first to second and to fifth. Not noticing the same on my RSTD, but that bike has a Barrett plate. My RSV is still stock (yes at 77K miles). So, this week, on my RSV, I went back from Shell Rotella T6 to Amsoil 10W40, after only 1600 miles. This seems to have remedied the majority of the clunk. What I did notice about he Rotella compared to my 10+ years of Amsoil is that when the Rotella was draining from the bike, it appeared much thinner than I am used to seeing from Amsoil. Also, sticking my fingers in the old oil and doing the pinch test, the Rotella does not have the slippery factor near what Amsoil had. I have never seen a negative post on Shell Rotella T6. I know I'm going to get feed back about how great T6 is,,, but I'm done and gone back to Amsoil. Just my observation,, Mike G in SC

Going some day this week. Will try to make it then. Mike G.

It's OYLE !

Congrats George. I added an 08 GW Trike last November. Told my self I was going to do in in spring,,, but you know how that goes when you start looking. I still got my Venture and my RSTD. Will sell the 09 Venture soon as I get my RoundToit. (This was Wanderer's bike long ago.) But yesterday I was at the Sumter dealer (great service and parts) and sat on a couple of new GW's. LOADED! Enjoy,,, and put a kill switch tether on Bobbie. Mike G in SC

If a man says he is going to sell his old bike, his wife need not bug him every six months to do it!

Eck, Tried the simple knob adjust. Did not help. Did not get to the switches myself but dropped by the dealer today for a filter. He swapped both clutch switches there. Still did not resolve it. Then he took a look at the aftermarket chrome clutch lever and said he believed it to be worn or bad. He offered to try some OEM levers for $50, contingent on it working. It did. So, it was the lever. He said everyone wants to upgrade to aftermarket but he sees the most problems with them. I like the feel of the stock lever better, so, all is good. Again thanks, Mike G in SC

Eck, Tried the simple knob adjust. Did not help. Did not get to the switches myself but dropped by the dealer today for a filter. He swapped both clutch switches there. Still did not resolve it. Then he took a look at the aftermarket chrome clutch lever and said he believed it to be worn or bad. He offered to swap me some OEM levers for $50, contingent on it working. It did. So, it was the lever. He said everyone wants to upgrade to aftermarket but he sees the most problems with them. I like the feel of the stock lever better, so, all is good. Again thanks, Mike G in SC

I have stock size Dunlop E3 on front and Michelin Commander II on rear of my 2006 RSTD and my 2009 RSV. I have run this combo since the Michelin Commander II came out for the rear but did not have stock size for the front. I would run MCII front and back but I have tried and don't care for the small front tire. My first set on the RSV gave me 26K miles front and 22K miles on the rear. I have run for about 5 years and multiple sets on both bikes. But, I second the Dunlop E3's,,, good tires also. Next,,,,,,,

I bought a Russell Daylong Saddle from a guy on the STAR Touring site a few years ago. I failed to ask how tall he was,,,, why? Because once I got it and put it on, it was all I could do to touch the ground, forget trying to back the sucker up. WINGS,,,, big ones. I called Russell group. Lady said they are all custom made for the rider. Previous owner was 6'3",,, me 5'8" with 29" inseam. NO WAY. She said, they do not trim them down and I simply got the wrong seat. Oh. Turns out my friend, Steve Anderjack is at least 6'3",,, hard to tell from down here. He tried it out and fell in love with it. As I got it for a good price, he took it off my hands. So, anyone getting a used Russell Daylong,,,, make sure you have similar dimensions as the first buyer. Oh and Boss,,, welcome back,,,,, the FORCE is strong.

Well,,, Yamaya may loose the Bolt "frenzy" they think we all want. lol

Seen several similar about 15-20 years ago with a VW rear and motor. I think they were called BOOM's. EDIT: Yep, still in business. Probably what you are seeing. Engine= Ford Zetec 1.6 Here is link with full info and prices. http://www.boomtrikesusa.com/index.html

Both my 2006 RSTD and 2009 RSV had them replaced under warranty. (I got a great dealer, Extreme Sports Yamaha, Sumter, SC. Service spotted they were leaking when doing a rear tire and ordered the part before I knew it.) Still running both bikes on the replacements so far.

I wrote this up a few years ago,,, but here is the short version of Gravity Feed. Tank to Carb. (short version: thread the line from the petcock to the carb input and unplug electrical to the pump) More detail: You need SOME tools, not much. (needle nose pliers, one wrench for tank bolt, one allen for side cover, flashlight if you are late for dinner.) You turn petcock to OFF. Pull the front seat. Pull the left side cover to access the bad pump (only the rear bolt is necessary, the other is a good spare shifter bolt if needed sometime). Remove the rear tank bolt. Lift and block the rear of the tank about two inches. Unplug the electrical connector to the fuel pump to prevent it from trying to puke out remaining fuel when you turn the key. With needle nose, pull the clamp off the fuel line (that comes from the petcock to filter) at the filter. Pull the line over and thread it over to the right side of the tank rear. On the right side, look under the tank to see the fuel line that comes from the pump to the carb input. With needle nose squeeze clamp, pull the line off the carb input. NOW, put the line from the petcock on the carb input. (this is where the flashlight is handy) Finish: Drop tank back down, put tank bolt back in. Drain loose gas lines, tuck under seat. Clean up any gas on the bike so you do not ignite like Ghost Rider as you ride home. Put side cover back on, and, put seat back on, just for comfort. TURN ON PETCOCK. This should get you home. If you need, you can ride this for any distance if you keep the tank over half full. If you need to do this for some time, add an inline filter just after the petcock. Also, till you replace the pump, turn off petcock when engine is off.