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Mike G in SC

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Everything posted by Mike G in SC

  1. Jeff, Warranty,, GREAT! So, find out if this problem has ever been addressed on your new bike. The dealer should be able to give you a print out of the warranty repair record. This is now your bike so he should have nothing to hide there. Don't take the "known problem" approach as the solution. Probably 50%+ have been replaced under warranty, so Yamaha will indeed allow it. If there was nothing to fix,, that would not have happened. As it is under warranty, any factory Yamaha dealer can do the work. Ask this forum bunch "Who is the best dealer in my area?" I have two dealers within 50 miles of me,,, big difference in attitude. My best dealer (Sumter SC, Extreem Sports) readily does warranty work. Often they have noticed something and told me about it and have already ordered the parts before I knew about it. So, because of him, I don't comprehend dealers avoiding warranty work,,, they get paid. Don't let this slip past the warranty. Good luck, Mike G
  2. Warranty? If yes then you have recourse. If no, then you probably don't. Either way, any Yamaha dealer can check the warranty service record with the VIN. They can tell if this was ever "corrected". You should ask to see the bike history anyhow. If still under warranty, and it has never been done, have them change out the I-basket under warranty. If they don't,,,, find another dealer who does not rest on their old name laurels. Seems like someone on this forum said they made the dealer swap backets several times under warranty.
  3. When everything is loose, you can turn the tubes the 45 degrees,,, but this is where we had to take the wheel off to get the weight off. It is a struggle untill you hit the perfect angle. This is a point where two people are needed. Below are a couple of pictures of the right valve,,, turned 45 and also with an extension. I thank Bill Little for the job but also for providing me the valve extensions. He already had those on hand cause he did the same on his. EDIT: HEY SORRY ABOUT THE ANGLE OF THE PICTURES, MAY HAVE TO STAND ON YOUR HEAD AND LOOK LEFT! Mike G
  4. Not steeling the post, but you can go exactly 1.5". But you will also want to turn the schrader valves out 45 degrees and maybe add extension to that. (Can only get 1/2 to 3/4" for RSTD) Mike G in SC
  5. And,,,,, you probably already found out,,,,,, adjust you mirrors! LOL, I found that out. May need to raise the handlebars. Yeah, when we did mine last month, had to drop the front tire to get the weigh off it. Enjoy that new ride. Mike G in SC
  6. Well put! I buy on-line too,, but when I can and the price is not out of line I like to use my closest dealer. We have established a great relationship. He will usually match an internet price, and will always match if it is from any US Yamaha dealer (like Yamaha of Cucamonga and Stadium Yamaha in Dallas). So, if your local dealer is a good guy, keep them in mind.
  7. Yes,,, in a word. Tonight, when I get home, I will post a link or two already on this forum. But I had a guy at Lake Norman, NC drop the front of my RSV last month. You got to know what you are doing,,, he does. If you drop the front 1" to 1 1/2" you will really like it,,, especially at 5'7",, promise. Look for a later post. Mike G in SC EDIT: here's the one I wanted you to see: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66844
  8. Pretty sure F4 does not do a windshield for the RSTD (too bad,, I would have one now). I did get a Clearview a few years ago, with vent. I just use it during the winter. Kind of big and hot during the summer. Hey, that F4 on my RSV is the BEST EVER! Mike G
  9. About 1986, my girlfriend (wife now) and I were playing tourist in NY City, at the west end of Wall Street going into the gothic looking Church of the Trinity (think it was in a National Treasure movie later), in the shadow of the World Trade Center. There was this VN Vet looking guy standing outside. He looked bad, tongue hangin out, one eye closed the other looking wrong direction, arm looking in dis-repair,,, pretty sad looking Vet, holding a tin cup. Yep, why not, tossed in my change. He mumbled something like "Tank's". When we came out about a half hour later, near noon, same guy was standing straight up, very animated, very verbal, joking with a similar friend. My wife simply looked at me and said,,,,,,,,, "they must be on lunch break." Yeah, I married her,,,, got to see the fun side of life. I took no offense,, still got a good story to tell. And back then,,, probably was a Vet.
  10. Well as I was just starting to watch the video (here) this morning, the Today Show was showing the same thing. That doesn't guarantee legitimacy, but it adds a bit of credibility.
  11. That really is quite an accomplishment,,, even though we already have people in space. Wow, think how green this may go,,, cross Atlantic 747-MP (man power) flights where the passengers "row" to London! Seems like the Romans had boats like that.
  12. I have a lowered RSTD and a lowered RSV. You lower the back of the RSTD exactly same as the RSV, most likely using the Baron's rear kit (which relocates the calliper to below the swing arm and has links). This will lower the rear 1 1/2". I used the kit but had links fabricated that were half way between the stock and Baron's. So, I am down about 3/4"-1",, less pipe scrape. Lowering the back alone may put your feet on the ground but hurts handling, increasing the rake. To make the bike handle natural or better, need to lower the front. Look at postings here about lowering the front. Infact you have two in TX who were willing to help me,,, but I'm in SC. On the RSV you can lower the front up to 1 1/2". But on the RSTD you can only go 1/2" to max of 3/4"!!! This is because the handlebars will hit the schrader valves on the top of the forks beyond 1/2". You can get another 1/4" when you have it apart by reversing the big washers in the tubes (and a little honing out of one). When me and my mechanic friend first lowered the RSTD we went the full 1 1/2" and found out about the limit when we TRIED to put it back together. So, my RSTD is lowered 3/4" front and back AND I LOVE THE RIDE!!! I will add a link here if I can find the one where your TX friends have the know-how. But, if you can lower a RSV, doing the RSTD is the same method but you don't have to deal with the fairing,,, so, yes easier,,,, but you can't get 1 1/2" on the RSTD front. Mike G in SC EDIT: hey, here is the link to my lowering thread,, and TX friends: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66844
  13. Looks like it should be covered with pop-flowers and peace symbols. http://i958.photobucket.com/albums/ae65/jennyluvspeace/Hippie-Flowers.gif
  14. Time to invest in a "man cave". Else shine up her high heels too, hide your boots, smear polish on yourself and say Honey, "I think they look pretty good".
  15. Thank God she is okay,, buy a new bike,,,, and I have never said this before,, get her a helmet.
  16. I put one on the rear of my RSTD last month. I LIKE IT! Still got a old Commander on the front. But I think I like the new ones. Very similar to the Avon Venoms. FROM MICHELIN PAGE http://www.michelinmotorcycle.com/index.cfm?event=Commander Sizes front & Rear. 130/90 B16 73H (repl. MT90 B16) "small front" 140/90 B15 76H 120/90 B17 64S 150/90 B15 74H "our rear" 130/80 B17 65H 170/80 B15 77H 140/75 R17 67V Radial 130/90 B16 73H (repl. MT90 B16) 100/90 B19 57H 150/80 B16 77H 80/90-21 54H (repl. MH90-21) 140/90 B16 77H (repl. MU85 B16) 180/65 B16 81H 160/70 B17 73V 200/55 R17 78V Radial
  17. Just tell the judge, "I'll be the best jurist that money can buy!"
  18. When I bought my RSV, the previous owner was running premium or mid grade. And when I put regular (87) it was not great. I had my mix screws set by the dealer (setting o2) and since then, regular is all I use. (My RSTD has always been fine on regular, but they also set it too.). The bikes are set too lean from the factory.
  19. Buy it,, sounds like this is a good bike and well taken care of. Also, perfect bike for your 6'2". Someone else on this forum is asking a similar question about a RSTD with 107k miles but an unknown history and indication of no maintenance. He had another choice with much less miles. My feeling for that deal was leave the unknown alone. I have high miles (85k) on my RSTD and plan to ride it,,,,,,
  20. Cost me an arm, a leg and a "lug" nut. Go figure, yesterday, same place my wife said she got free sex and gas. I must have picked the wrong day of the week. (somewhat borrowed from Lewis Gizzard)
  21. I have a 2006 RSTD with 85k miles (and a RSV with 35k miles). Real happy with both, especially love my RSTD (my solo bike). We all say they are good for 150 to 200k miles,,,, but I think the bike you are looking at was "rode hard,,,,". I would go with spending $1500 more for the one with 30k miles. Mike G
  22. Not that you aren't paying a lot,, but "I still have the "old" unlimited plan, but I hear they are beginning to FORCE us off of that plan, by throttling down the speed. " What I heard is they will "throttle down" the really high use users. If you are HIGH use,, it would affect you. Else,, you would not likely see much. Looking at my true usage,, would not affect me. Mike G
  23. FLB78, Phone pics attached. It's a gray, wet day here so may not show highlights as good. Pics are from the bottom looking up. It has groove wear both sides (probably got metal to metal?) and there is a fairly noticable "ridge" on the very edge of both sides. You may see a lip closer to the hub. Mechanic took measurement and said it is "right there". I can feel substantial difference between my two Royals. So, now looking close enough for pictures I see rust down in the grooves, meaning that the newer pads (2k miles) are not seated to the existing grooves. Also, bike has the Barons kit on the rear so calliper is relocated. Don't guess that would have an ill effect? Rear braking is still effective but will replace the disk next go round, when the new Michelin II is worn. Mike G PS FLB_78,,, your picture scared my cat off,,, do you have a first name or pronouncable nick-name?
  24. Got 85K miles on my RSTD. When I had a rear tire replaced a few weeks back we notice the rear disk was about end of life. (Yes I use the rear brake,, cause it's there!) Anyhow, so, I will need to get one in the future. Anyone bought one in the last year. OEM or aftermarket? How much for the part? Other? Thanks, Mike G
  25. Craig, Glad you asked,,, I also had this done to my RSTD two years ago and it's funny how have I thought of it as the "little bike",,, because the handling is like it dropped 100 lbs. On the RSV,,, High speed: I believe I notice more stability on the interstate than before. I think the front down angle gives more down force to keep the front wheel more "solid". Low speed: Yes better handling in corners, both at parking lot speed and also normal cornering. At stop or stopping: There is the gain I needed, that was my goal. Two up with the wife on back is much less concern with feet down (or just the left foot,, better strength for balance). Wife, Carol, can also tell. As for scraping,, lowering the front will raise the tail pipes,, so if you do scrape it will be just floorboard, not the immovable pipes. But, no I am not noticing more scraping,, without trying. Lowering the rear produces scraping. I had already got the seat cut down,, that just gave me no padding in the seat,, did not give near the gain as finally lowering the front. Like the other bike, it's like the RSV has lost 100 lbs. I should note, I did lower just the back with a Baron's kit on my RSV for a while. Having only the rear lowered is NOT a good idea. It does actaully make the handling more difficult. If you are going to lower,,, do both or just front. On the front,, some people use kits,, we did not. So, I can't speak on what the kit does. Mike G
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