BlueChips84

I can verify that it is definitely not fuel or coolant. I'm planning to pull the covers again, give it a good clean to get the dirt and oil residue off and then run it up and down the road to see if I can spot the source. There is too much oil and dirt that has crept up the surface of the engine to see clearly. I'll have to pick up some engine cleaner and tackle it after hunting season next week.

Well, I was going to sell my bike but two things stopped me: 1) My wife just shook her head and say keep it because I like it so much and, 2) I started to notice an oil leak under the bike about a month after I bought it. Can't sell it like that! So, she is here to stay and I'll ride the heck out of her but I want to fix this leak before it gets worse or is hinting at another issue. Bike has 54000 miles on it. I removed the side covers(fake fins) on both sides of the engine and tried to track down the source of the leaks. From first glance, it seems to be leaking around the head gasket on the front left and rear right cylinders, very slightly. Does not seem to be running down from the valve cover that I can tell but I have not dug in to the bike any further to look. I have heard about a TSB regarding improperly torqued head bolts on the royal stars of this vintage but not sure if that included the RSTD model. I'm hopeful that I can get away with just re-torqueing the bolts after getting the cover off and I suspect having to lift out the cam shafts. Is this feasible or am I looking at a full head rebuild as well? I have not noticed burning coolant at all but the reservoir was low. I never checked it when I bought it as it slipped my mind so I have no base line yet. I did not see any oil in it either but have not checked in the radiator. No coolant present in the oil either at this point. Suggestions? Guessing I'll have a project for the winter😋

For the price of new plugs and air filters, I would just change them anyhow to set a baseline. Definitely drop the oil some as well. Also make sure that all of the intake boots from the air box are seated properly, it is easy to get one pinched up. I have the same bike, a 2007 RSTD and it hauls butt with a twist of the throttle.

I'm going to try linking from my image host site, Imgur and see if that works. My daughter told we we had to call her Marshmallow, seeing as how my other bike is named Fudge (model is a '90 FJ600). So I present Miss Marshmallow in all her glory. Got her and a parts bike together Both were non running but since fixed and in various pieces. After some new fluid, tires and seals, brake rebuilds and scavenging a few parts, Ms. Marshmallow is now fully dressed and ready for a safety. She just needs a few new rubber grommets for mibor cosmetic fixes and to touch up the soldering on the CLASS system. I appreciate all the help so far getting her going!

I believe most fuel containers are made of HDPE. Check the bottom for the recycling symbol on a gas can and then match that on your back up bottle. Would a small 5L /1.5gal fuel can not work? At least that way you could fuel it up anywhere without grief and it should vent properly too. Gas cans are designed to take a pretty good impact without damage or bursting, can't say the same for a bleach container.

Thanks for all the help guys! I managed to get things going after I bought a large syringe at PA that is meant for measuring two stroke oil. I removed the hose from the reservoir and clamped the hose around the syringe nipple and pressurised the system that way. Eventually it took prime and was pumping properly, expelling 30yo chocolate milk looking fluid. Amazingly everything cleaned up well and was clean I sure afterwards. It also appears that if you bleed the top point first before the front caliper, the fluid will run down the line and fill the front caliper before coming out the bleed valve by the steering neck. Probably another reason I felt like I was pumping forever. On the bright side, I did get to teach my 9yo son how to bleed brakes. Now he wants to bleed the rest, even though they are done now, he looked disappointed. Now it's time to get her all back together and decide what to do. I sat on a 2007 RSTD yesterday and really liked it, especially the low centre if gravity. Just not sure is if I'll miss out of the sport like handling of the Gen 1 though! Those gen 2's are smart looking bikes. Pics coming once I reach 20 posts, eventually.

I was actually doing it in the reverse order which likely does not help but I did not think it would cause an air lock or loss of pumping. I will try and stop by the local Princess Auto and grab a vacuum pump and/or a reverse bleed kit, hopefully that will help. If nothing else it will make like easier as the wife is too busy with the three kids to help on the bike.

That is the point I am attempting to bleed now. The rear caliper has fluid in it but when I went to bleed the high point by the handlebars it is no longer pumping. Tried for an hour. I topped the reservoir up with fluid and cracked the top bleed nipple overnight to see if maybe gravity will help things prime. Will try it again tonight.

For easier access, I pulled the revoir out and removed the cal and diaphragm to fill more easily, so not that. I can see how it would happen though.

Hi all, I have been having a problem with my rear master cylinder not pumping on my '86 venture royale. I had the brake system fully disassembled for rebuilding and inspection and it seems that I have gotten air in to the rear master cylinder. It will no longer draw fluid from the reservoir. It did draw some when I bled the rear caliper but then stopped after a bit. Is there a trick to re prime the MC to get it pumping again? It was working before disassembly and the return hole is clear of obstructions. Once I have her back together I'll post the mandatory pictures:cool:

Believe me, I understand that at the compression ratio on these bikes it is a waste octane wise. I was suggesting 94 since here in Ontario and I assume other areas as well, 87 and 89 octane fuels pretty much always have ethanol blended in. Usually the 92 and 94 will be ethanol free which will be easier on the carbs and especially the rubber within. I tore apart the carbs on my parts bike which was clearly run with ethanol blend gas and the rubber stoppers on the Jets were crumbling and hard, as well as some other rubber hoses in contact with fuel. Using the ethanol free fuels, I have never had trouble starting a small engine or bike after an extended time although i usually run the carbs dry before storage each year as well. An ounce of prevention....

Someone was using gas with ethanol! I only ever use premium 94 gas since it will not have the ethanol in it which will attract water and do that to carbs if they sit. Check the label on the pump and make sure it doesn't say "may contain up to x% ethanol". How long was the bike sitting for?

Thanks for the link. Looks pretty straight forward. I managed to repair mine with some permatex blue for now, see how it holds up. Just a bandaid fix to get the bike going as I rebuild it and order parts. Been working well enough I could balance the carbs and make adjustments to get her running g smoothly.

I'm new to these bikes and the forum but thanks for the warning on these kits. Been planning to change the diaphragm on my 86 gen1 but I guess I'll save a few more dollars and get the ones out of England! Aric

When I was repairing the intake boots on my Yamaha FJ600 , I used Permatex RTV ultra black. It binds right to the rubber and has held for a year so far without sign of failure. Just be mindful of putting it on though because it is thick and cures fast so plan ahead. Once done it looks almost like a welding bead.