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You could be correct as we know the manual isnt always correct.. I looked in the library and didnt see anything mentioned about it. Might be do the lower bleeders and wait a day to bleed the high one.. give the air a chance to rise to the top.. Rick F.

You should be able to access the rear master cylinder and reservoir by removing the right side panel and shouldnt have to remove the seat. The proper bleeding steps are listed in the service manual on page 6-21. First bleed the Right Front caliper with the front brake lever. Second is to bleed the Left Front Caliper with the rear brake pedal or bleeding device. Third is to bleed the Rear Brake Caliper with the rear brake pedal or bleeding device. Forth is to bleed the Metering Valve with is located up by the top of the triple tree. You do this one last as it is the highest point on the braking system and should be where the air in the lines if there is any would be located at. While doing all this bleeding make sure the reservoir is always full so you arent pumping air back into the system. I have found that using a mustard or catsup dispenser bottle with the brake fluid in there makes it easier to fill the reservoirs. On thing to note is that the hose are getting soft and not letting getting the full pressure get to the calipers. I replaced mine with steel braided hoses and the brakes worked 100% better. I could put my hand around the hoses and apply the brakes and feel the hose swell in my hands before replacing them. So just something else to think about as these are 30+ year old bikes also the caliper rebuild kits from BrakeCrafters includes the small o-ring between the caliper halves so you can spilt them to aid in the cleaning and have a fresh o-ring to replace them with. Hope this helps. Good luck Rick F.

I dont remember it being an issue on my bike.. refer to manual page 6-6 and 6-10 upper picture... once the circlip is remove the clutch hub #10 should be able to be slide out of the wheel hub and I would also remove the hub dust seal #11. If I recall correctly, the pins in the clutch hub will slide out of the dampers and these pins are what you want to clean and grease. I also clean all the old grease from the gear and reapply fresh grease. You might need to do some prying on the clutch hub if the pins are stuck in the dampers. I would be careful on how much pressure you use and it is just an aluminum hub. I hope this helps. Rick F.

That is my method also.. works for me on the first try most times.. Rick F.

For the final drive gear oil change and inspection, refer to service manual page 2-27. For the rear suspension refer to page 6-48 to 6-55. You might find grease zerks installed by a previous owner but they didnt come install from Yamaha till 1990 models I believe. You can add them to it and it is a good idea and easy way to lube the pivot points on the A-arms but does require you to basically take apart the rear suspension to do it. refer to this for information.. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?1057-Frame-Fork-and-Wheel-Tips One thing to beware of in the service manual is that the 88-93 bikes have a different A-arm setup and how the pieces look compared to the 83-87 ones. Also the shock mounts differently on the 88-93 bikes. The service manual shows pictures of the 83-87 bikes and not the 88-93 bikes. Another thing is that you dont need to worry about is lubing the 88-93 drive shaft where it enters the final gear drive as the lube oil from the final drive takes care of that. The 83-87 need to remove their drive shafts to lube the gear on the end of theirs. With the wheel out of the gear drive, there is an gear on the wheel that messes with the gear drive, page 6-10 has a picture. On the wheel is a gear held onto the shaft by a c-clip, remove it and pull the assemble out and grease the fingers that go into the wheel.. refer to the above link and rear wheel service portion of that post. I hope that helps but if not ask more and we will see if we can get you thru this.. Sounds hard but isnt really that bad to do and makes a big difference in the ride of the bike when finished. Good Luck Rick F.

Well with the exhaust off on both sides, I would be servicing the rear suspension, rear gear assemble, and grease all the wheel bearings. Good chance none of that has been done in a while if the tires are that old. With the bike high enough the rear wheel should be able to dropped down and worked out without removal of the side bags and frame and rear fender. Good luck.. Rick F.

Has anyone here tired the Parts Unlimited fule petcock rebuild kit for our bikes yet? I saw a few listed on ebay and was just wondering if anyone has tried them to see if they fix the sticking fuel petcock issue with the bikes. Here is a link to one of the items on ebay.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Parts-Unlimited-Fuel-Petcock-Rebuild-Kit-Yamaha-XVZ1300-Venture-Royale-1986-1993/313076905982?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200520130048%26meid%3Db91d15c5acdc4edfb7aa16bd4b1f8f05%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpf%26sd%3D401567120357%26itm%3D313076905982%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithBBEV2bDemotion%26brand%3DParts+Unlimited&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 Thanks Rick F.

Since she isnt doing her original journey, she is traveling around her native Netherlands show us some of the sights and history there. Sounds like Royal Enfield has loaned her another bike to use and some of the companies there have outfitted her with some gear also. Rick F

Do you have a service manual for your 83 VR as there is a troubleshooting guide and systematic for the lighting electrical system, page 7-23, in there that can be of assistance to you. If you dont have the manual you can download one from here.. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?3384-First-Gen-Service-Manuals Using the guide should help you figure out where you are having an issue at. This isnt a direct connection from the dimmer switch to the headlight as there is a reserve lighting unit in there as well as some other items. Do you have a failed headlight icon on your control panel? Hope this helps you out and good luck. Rick F.

the manual doesnt give the proper location to test the diodes. Looking at the drawing and the chart it should be.. d = Red Wire a = White wire 1 b = White wire 2 c = White wire 3 e = Black wire. What that test does it to verify that the diodes in the rectifier are good. If the connector is getting too hot to hold then there is corrosion in the connector and it either needs to have the terminals cleaned or the connector replaced. Some of us here have replaced the regulator with a more modern one that does a better job of charging the battery and supplying current to the electrical system also. Hope this helps.. Rick F.

Are you using the procedure in the service manual to check the stator and its components? There is a copy of the manual in the tech library that you can download and that will help you out. Also do you still have the original fuse panel installed? The fuses have a tendency to get loose in the holders as they lose their tension to hold the fuses tight. Most of us have replaced it with a blade style fuse holder. Also make sure the connectors for the regulator and stator are clean and corrosion free as that will cause issues also.. Good luck Rick F.

It isnt sounding good. Have you checked your oil to see if it is looking or smelling like there is gas in it. Also how did the plugs look when you pulled them out. The bike being hard to turn over by hand with the plugs out doesnt sound promising either. I would let it sit with the plugs out for a day or so and then see if the starter will turn the motor over freely. If it does, I would then try a compression check on all the cylinders to see what the readings are on those. That will help to let you know what the shape of the motor is to a point. If it wont turn over with the starter than there could be bigger issues but that would take more diagnostics to determine just what is the issue. Let us know what you find out on the spinning of the motor. Good luck Rick F.

The washer is on the rear axle and goes between the wheel and the caliper bracket. I have see where people put the washer between the swingarm and the caliper bracket and this force the caliper out of alignment with the rear rotor. Hope that helps. Rick F.

It does sounds like a bent or warped rotor and most likely is the rear rotor and not the front. I believe in theory that the rear brake applies before the left front brake does. One thing to check is to make sure the rear washer is in the correct position on the right side of the wheel. It should be between the wheel and the caliper bracket. I had the warped issue on my 89 VR and ended up replacing the rotor with a used one that was not warped and made sure to test it before riding it and it was smooth when I spun it around by hand. I would make sure to properly bleed the front and rear brakes also. If you dont have one, there is a copy of the Yamaha service manual in the Tech section and it will give you a lot of information on the proper way to bleed the brakes. Good luck and let us know how it goes..

Check out this link as a member here sells the upgrade kits to replace the stock fuse block.. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?139140-First-Gen-VR-(1983-TO-1993)-Fuse-Box-Upgrade-Kit! Rick F.

I have caught up with her now on season 2 episode 75... I need to go back now to season 1 eps 1 but her video skills have improved a lot and it has been fun to ride along with her on this journey. Rick F.

Has anyone else been watching the youtube vlog of a young lady who is riding her motorcycle from the southern tip of South America to Alaska. She has video of the ride and most updates almost daily when she is riding. Here is the URL to her channel. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=itchy+boots+season+2 She has also ridden in the middle east and Asia in her season 1. The Americas trip is season 2 which she is doing right now.. Hope you enjoy it as much as I am.. Rick F.

if you havent yet, I suggest you download the service manual for your bike. It will help you in getting the plastic off the bike in an orderly manner. Here is the link to it. https://www.venturerider.org/manuals/1986-1993%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Service%20Manual.pdf Also look over the tech library for a lot of answers to question I am sure you will have and of course dont be afraid to ask us here if you cant locate an answer. Rick F.

What bike are you looking for them to fit as I have a couple for the 1st gen I am willing to part with. Rick F.

You can also try this method. I have used it in the past on my bike and have had good luck with it. http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/shotgun.htm This is for a Vmax but the Venture has the same basic carb layout. Good luck.. Rick F.

yes, the omnidirectional isn't the best idea here. You want a directional antenna and one designed for HDTV signal. Also where do you have the antenna mounted at presently? I have a digital antenna as a backup to the cable and have it mounted in my attic. It receives signals from the towers that about 35 miles north of me plus some other ones around the area. Check around and you can find a good one that will work for you. Check out this link for some ideas. https://www.tomsguide.com/us/best-tv-antennas,review-2354.html Rick F.

Trying to ride my VR as much as I can but there never seems to be enough time with all that life throws at us. Might be riding it for the last time this season very soon as the weather is about to get cold again. Good Luck Rick F.

Any of the 1st Gen Ventures, no matter what the year, should have replaced the hydraulic hoses for the clutch and brakes even if they arent leaking as they have to be soft and springy by now. You are loosing a lot of your force as the hoses are expanding and not transferring the pressure to the end device. I replaced mine about 6 years ago with the steel braided kit and it was surprising how much better the brakes and clutch functioned when applying them. Rebuilding the master cylinders isn't that tough of a job and is well worth the time to do it also. I also use a Harbor Freight brake bleeder and vacuum pump kit to assist in the bleeding. https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-63391.html Good luck. Rick F.

I just thought I would throw out there that I havent read every single post in this thread, so I hope I am not repeating anything. If you think you are not getting enough gas at idle and off idle, then you can increase the Pilot jet size from 37.5 to 40.0 or even a 42.5 and this will increase the available gas to the engine. This jet is #13 in the carb schematic on page 5-1 of the service manual, and fits into the bottom of the jet block. The jet are available from Yamaha and I have attached a file I made with the different jets and the Yamaha part numbers for them. It is also possible that they could be available on the aftermarket also. When watching Damon Ferraiuolo carb rebuild video, he even suggest replacing the 37.5 with a 40.0 jet as it makes it easier to get the bike to idle better. It is also my understand that this jet provides the fuel for the carbs till about 3500 rpm when the main jet, needle jet, and jet needle take over fuel delivery. Just a thought. Rick F. Mikuni Jet sizes and Yamaha part numbers.docx

I prefer Seafoam over Stabil as I have a friend who works on small engines tell me that Stabil will gel up over time where I have not had that issue with Seafoam. I use it in all my gas engines and have had no issue with starting them up after sitting for a extended period of time. I also try to use non-ethanol gasoline in my motorcycle when I store it for the season and all my small engines. Just what I have found that works for me. Rick F.