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Mine was a 1974 Yamaha DT125 that I purchased when I was 16. Learned how to ride that in the sand hills and back country and on the local roads. Sold that for a 70 Chevelle SS 396 and didnt have a motorcycle again till 1979 and it was a 77 Yamaha 750 triple. Rick F.

Yamaha changed the rear shock mounts with the 1988 model till the end of production. I would also take the time to add grease zerks to the pivot points on the swing arm and a-arm. This will help in keeping everything nice and lubed in the rear of the bike. I believe you can find where to do these in the tech section. Good Luck Rick F.

Was just checking the Edset website, http://www.edsets.com/ , and see they are offering a 15% discount on their headsets and accessories till Jan 2, 2016. Anyone looking, this would be the time to buy. Rick F.

I am thinking it will be the last as the weather is head to the cold side and the white stuff wont be far behind it. But yes it is ready to go at a moments notice or urge.. Rick F.

I took what appears to be my final motorcycle ride of the season here in Minnesota as it was a nice 60 degree sunny day. Was able to get just a bit under 100 miles in and topped out the tank with seafoam and good gas. I would have gone more but yard work was calling and needed to be finished. I still have it sitting ready to ride again if I have another sunny day I might get take it out again as it isnt very often we get motorcycle riding up here in November. Rick F.

At one time Progressive Suspension had a replacement shock set up for the 1st Gens but they have dropped it from their line. You might be able to find a left over at one of the online sources or maybe a used one off of Ebay. They also made a spring replacement for the stock shock and I have seen those show up on ebay more then the complete shock does. Good Luck Rick F.

Glad to assist you out. Glad you made it back home safely.. Rick F.

If you are still in Indy, you might check with them and see if they have one in stock. PartShark.com 6926 E. 16th St. Indianapolis IN 46219 Phone: 1-877-999-5686 (9 a.m. - 5 p.m. Mon-Fri Eastern Std. Time) or try Flat out Motorcycles, 8118 E. Washington Street Indianapolis, IN 46219 Phone: (317) 890-9110 Just a couple of local places to try in Indy area. Rick F.

I just check and Partshark is showing a speedometer cable still available. 1 Speedometer Cable Ass''y 26H-83550-01-00 $19.36 Hope this helps.

I was wondering if you had synced your carbs since installing the Ignitech box. I found I needed to do that after installing the Ignitech and that seemed to help a bit with throttle response for me. Check yours and see if that helps. Rick F.

I have a buddy with an 89 VR and he is experiencing 2nd gear popping out under acceleration and was asking me what it takes to fix it. We both figure it is a bent shifting fork that is causing it. When splitting the cases is there anything else he should look at doing besides the transmission issues. He figures he would do it this winter and take it a part then order the parts needed. I did read through the library on the 84 VR the member documented when he performed his. Thanks Rick F.

Make sure the restrictor is on the carb end of the hose and not the carbtune end. You might want to make sure you can blow or suck thru the hose to test of air flow. Another test would be to put your finger over the vacuum port on carb and see if you feel a vacuum there with the engine running. Good Luck. Rick F.

I havent used that mount but I run my fog lights off of key switch power source to a toggle switch that powers a relay with the lights wired to the battery with their own fuse. My are PIAA LED fog lights so they have a low power draw. I used a key switch source so that they could be own with out the key in the run position just incase. Rick F.

This is a common issue with the older VRs and most of us have rebuilt or replaced ours. You will also need the middle gear case gasket as you have to remove the cover to access the clutch slave cylinder. It takes a bit of wrangling to get the cylinder out of it position but it can be done, just look at it carefully and take your time and it will come out. I took this time to also rebuild my clutch master cylinder and replaced the old hoses with steel braided hose since I could hold my old ones and feel them swell with I applied pressure to the system. Hope this helps and ask more questions if you are not sure of something. Rick F.

What color of bulb did you use for the dash lights if you dont mind me asking. Thanks Rick F.

Just thought I let everyone know that the OPT7 LED headlight is on sale on their website for $54.99 with free shipping. http://opt-7.com/opt7-fluxbeam-motorcycle-led-headlight/ Amazon is showing it for $59.99 right now. Rick F.

I seem to have the latest but then I got mine in earlier this spring from Gary. Rick F.

My CD loaded ok to my laptop and desktop but then the CD wasnt a LightScripe CD either. I also made the change from short to auto for the dwell and that resolved my issue with the tach bounce when cruising after the engine warmed up. Thanks for the heads up on that Lonestarmedic. I was looking at my wires and connectors as I made all new ones for the COPs. Rick F.

Good luck, I have only seen a NOS pair on Ebay once and that was a few years ago. Rick F.

I have a shock for the VR MKII with the progressive spring installed but not on the bike that I can measure up for you if you like. I plan on installing it later this fall as time permits. Rick F.

It could be an 89 built in late 88, but both years use the same swing arms, A-arms and shocks, so you should be ok with it. Good luck Rick F.

Doesnt the service manual have the curve listed in it as a diagram. I found this one in there but not sure if it is of much help. I also have the ignitech system with COP installed. I am happy with the system but yes it does seem to be lacking in the 2000 to 3000 RPM range and I am also trying to see why I am loosing spark at times when just at a constant cruise in the 3000 to 4000 RPM range. I am not sure if I have a bad coil or connector or just what at this time as I havent had a lot of free time to troubleshoot it. I did make my own new connectors and cables and it doesnt happen constantly so it is a tough one to find plus it seems the bike has to be warmed up to normal operating temps for it to occur. Rick F. ignition advance.pdf

If I recall, I used a knife blade or small screwdriver to remove mine and then cleaned off the glue residue with paint thinner and a scratch pad. Just had to work the blade around as I pulled on it. Hope that helps. Rick F.

Yes you need to have the air clear in the housing and it sealed up as the carbs need that to function properly at high speeds. A good test is to run the engine with the air filter out of the housing and then reinstall it and seal it and see the difference. The bike wont rev past about 3k with it out. Also synced the carbs with the bike ready to ride and the engine warmed up. Another thing to check is the vacuum caps on the carbs where you connect the sync tool to, as these have been know to crack and affect the carbs. I would recommend replacing these with ones for a motorcycle as it seems the automotive ones are not as thick of a rubber and dont last with all the heat from the engine. Good Luck Rick F.

Have you done a can of Seafoam yet. Get fresh gas in the tank but put a half a can of Seafoam in before filling the tank. Run it for about 5 to 10 mins and then let it sit overnight and then jump on it and drive it like hell and see how it performs. This might help or again if the carbs are really bad, it wont but a lot of members have had good luck with it. Make sure you have an air cleaner in the housing as these carbs need one in there to run properly also. Hope that helps. Rick F.