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Was just rereading the whole post and a couple of thoughts came to mind.. referring to the part diagram located here.. http://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a/yam/5107f835f870022108d6576a/carburetor-non-california-model Did you replace the o-ring, item 31 that goes between the main nozzle, item 32 and the jet block, item 30? Also did you use a new gasket, item 33? Make sure that there is a washer, item 27 on the screw, item 26, that cover the opening into the nozzle area. Just trying to eliminate possible issue here.. Did you replace the main nozzle and needle, item 8, also? I know that the needle is not longer available from Yamaha dang it.. I plan on using a Vmax needle in my replacement. It is possible that if the nozzle and needle were not replace that they as not sealing the opening in the nozzle tightly and it is allowing fuel to get by them and causing the flooding. They do wear and that causing the nozzle opening to get oblong instead of round. It they were tight then I would expect the fuel to rise in the float bowl but not seep out as it is appearing to do now. When you rebuilt your carbs, do you strip them all the way down and soak them in any carb cleaner? Did you blow out all the air passages after cleaning the carbs? I think you have the float levels correct so I am trying to think of what could cause the issue you are having and these things came to mind. I am planning a carb rebuild myself and have been working on getting all the parts I will need and plan on replacing a lot of the parts in the carbs. The ethanol in the gas today just wreck havoc on the parts in this old carb. I figured replace what I can and hopeful have another 20K of troublefree carbs. Good luck and let us know what you find and how it is going.. Rick F.

Another trick to use to get them out is the straw that comes with a can of WD-40. It should fit into the hole of the oring and washer and you can pull it out that way. Or spray a little WD-40 in there with the straw all the way in can help also. Rick F.

One thing comes to mind and just want to check with you... The needle valve for the fuel inlet has a wire attach to it that has a cut in the wire. Are you fitting the float tab into the cut of the wire. That is how it is suppose to go. I have included a photo of the Keyster Carb kit, K-1359YK. It is available on ebay or I ordered mine from http://www.siriusconinc.com. They also have a set of rubber plugs for the bottoms of the jet block for under $20 for all 8. I did order these also but I have tried them to see how they fit but I did just disassemble a carb tonight and can try them tomorrow for you and let you know. It is strange that the carbs are not venting out the tubes on top of the float bowl covers. I take it you can blow air thru those tubes as well. Sorry for some of the basic questions but just mentioning everything. Have you check to see if maybe you have a bad float. Setting the float height when dry is on thing but what about when they are wet. Before you disassemble the carbs again, do the wet float check on them with some clear tubing. The procedure is listed in the service manual and might be worth the time to do it. Least it let you know if the floats are good or if maybe one is sinking a bit and letting too much gas in. Let us know what you find and good luck. Rick F.

I always like that color combo... dont worry you will get those carbs ironed out and will be so pleased that you did when you go out for a cruise and twist that throttle a couple of times.. But I will warn you that your mileage will suck after you do that cause you cant stop doing it when ever you can.. Rick F.

They should be very snug in the block with the flat sides facing each other. I have the Damon Ferraiuolo video on rebuilding carburetors and he strongly suggest that no matter what you replace in the carb, you need to replace the jet block plugs. It shows him installing them and he has to push hard to get the new ones into their respected holes. Here is a short Youtube of his on rebuilding the carbs. He is doing a Vmax but they are the same carbs as ours. He sells the video on a carb rebuilding and a engine rebuilding. The carburetor video is from start to finish and is very well explained in all steps of disassemble and reassemble with what to watch out for. He can be contacted at Damon_Ferraiuolo@msn.com for prices and such. Rick F.

How full is the oil in the engine? Check it with the bike on the center stand please. Usually we only fill it to the bottom indicator on the sight glass. If you have it at the full mark on the sight class you can get some oil ending up in the airbox for blow by. I have actually disconnected the breather line and replaced it with a filter to help with this issue. If you download the service manual, this is instructions and pictures in there on how to do a test of the float levels with the bike running. They show using a gas tube but I would think clear hose would work also. You are comparing measurement against the carbs. This will at least show you just where the float level is set to. Hope this helps you.. Rick F.

Did you replace the 2 jet plugs that are at the bottom of the jet block with new ones or at least check them to make sure they are nice and tight? They have been know to get loose with time as they sit in gasoline all the time. If they are loose they could be allowing fuel to flow up into the Pilot air jet #2 which is in the top of the carb. This could explain the mist and fuel you are seeing after it sits for a while. The fuel is getting hot and expanding as the bike sits and being pushed up and out of the carbs that way. If that old Calif smog crap was not letting air past the fuel would take the path of least resistance. I know that means pulling the carbs off to check but it is the thing I would do if it was my bike, that is if you didnt replace them. Hope this help Rick F.

Service Manual for the 86-93 Ventures is available here. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/sh...ervice-Manuals there is a link to where you can download it and then check out page 2-21 for a diagram of the CA system.. The brass nipple you see in the pictures does appear to vent to the atmosphere. Rick F.

Service Manual for the 86-93 Ventures is available here. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?3384-First-Gen-Service-Manuals there is a link to where you can download it and then check out page 2-21 for a diagram of the CA system.. Rick F.

I was doing some checking on the parts diagram for an 89 VR as I didn't see the Venture listed for the 86 or 87 years. Here is a link to the canister for the CA emissions. http://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a/yam/5107f827f870022108d6572f/control-device-for-california-model-only http://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a/yam/5107f827f870022108d6572e/carburetor-california-model-only It shows some of the hoses and where they are connected to. The CA models have the vent tubes from the carbs connected together to a T fitting that is in the middle of the carbs. It looks like from the diagram that the T connects to the another T that connects to a valve of some sort. Price listed doesnt even call it by name. The other connects goes to another T which then connects to the center connection of the canister with the other connection to some roll over valve. The outer nipple on the canister goes to the carb connection on carb #4 . There is no fuel regulator on this bikes, just the fuel pump is all. So that shouldn't be an issue there. The fuel pump and filter are located on the left side of the bike along the swing arm. I would check the fuel filter to make sure it is in good shape. There is also a screen filter that is located in the carbs above the float valve seat, #35 on carb diagram. I had a friend that pulled it out and it was corroded a bit he said so I am not sure if that would be an issue as I would expect that to make a lean condition instead of a flooding one. He also thought his floats where hitting the retaining screw for the jet block as he too was getting some flooding on his bike. I think I would check the CA canister equipment first or see if you can just remove it. This one is a head scratcher for sure.. Good luck and I hope some of this helps you out.. Rick F.

What did you actually replace in the carbs? did you replace the main nozzle and needle, the jet blocks plugs at the bottom of the jet block for starters as the can get loose and allow gas to leak into the float bowl and act like a bad float. The main nozzle and needle will wear over time. The main nozzle can get to be an oblong hole instead of round as it should be with time. This allows gas to flow freely into the engine and will act like a bad float level. We have lowered the needle into the nozzle in the past and this helps for a while. When I first did this to my 89 VR, my mileage jumped up to about 45 MPH.. it has since dropped back to 40 MPH. Does your bike run better when the weather is cooler? Mine is like a different bike when the temps are in the 50's having better acceleration then when the temps are in the 70's +. This is another sign that the nozzle needs replaced. I am just being to get parts to completely rebuild the carbs and replace all of the wear items in them. I also order the carb rebuild DVD that Damon_Ferraiuolo@msn.com produced on rebuilding the carbs. He did it for the VMax but it is the same design as the VR carbs and is worth the money.. Send him an email and he will respond with prices and such. You can check out a bit of it on youtube also... I also found some information on Vmaxforum.net with rebuilding the carbs there. Lots of information there that relates back to the VR. Hope this helps Rick F. http://www.vmaxforum.net

If the pickup coil was bad I wouldnt think it would work with the stock TCI either. I would think something with a cap, wire or coil as the Venture is a wasted spark ignition system, so if 3 of them are firing the the 4th one would too. Make sure your adapter harness is good by ohming out the connection to the coil connectors from the TCI plug end. You should get a reading of zero for two of coil connections to one of the pins in the connector for the TCI. Do you have the wiring diagram for the adapter cable to assist in the troubleshooting? That is where I would start checking first.. If that should good, then pull a cap and get a good plug and check and see if you see spark with it exposed. This would let you see how strong the spark is also. I hope the helps. Rick F.

I was looking at moving my AGM battery to where the coils and TCI box was located. I would lay the battery horizontally in there and then make a shelf and mount the fuse block and other parts on it. I have installed the COPs and the Ignitech at this time. I did mount my Ignitech on top of the battery box for now. Rick F.

Also make sure that the ignitech is also configured for a single coil pickup. Not only do you need the correct wiring plugs but it has to have the correct load in the ignitech.. If you dont have the correct files, lets us know and we should be able to help you out. Rick F.

yes just as the picture shows on the website, http://www.factorypro.com/Prod_Pages/prody11.html, the casting circle on the jet in the lower middle is like the picture shows. the cut out on the float is level with the top of the circle. The upper right circle bottom is level with the top of the float. This is a good starting point for setting the float level. Rick F.

Ebay as a couple for sale... http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/252380083836?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true not available from Yamaha so I would get these if you needed them badly.. Rick F.

Syncing the carbs does help but also check the caps on the vacuum ports as they can have cracks and leak also. With a sync tool it will also let you know if you have some vacuum issue with the carbs and if they have never been off then I would strongly suggest a good cleaning and rebuild. Sirius Consolidated, Inc in Canada, https://www.siriusconinc.com has carb kits and parts for our bikes and can supply most of the parts for the rebuild. The rest you will need to order from Yamaha as no one else has them and yes unfortunately the needle valves for the VR 1300 are not available. Hope this helps some and good luck. Rick F.

Here is a word doc on how to decode the Yamaha part number to determine when size and type bolt, nut, screw it is. This should help you some. Also I would attach or at least cover the carb openings with something so that a stray bolt or nut doesn't find its way into a carb and then into the cylinder and cause some damage. I also have a 1990 VR assemble manual in PDF format that is too big to attach but I could email that to you also. It was used by the dealerships to assemble the bikes when they were received from Yamaha. It isnt the same year as your 86 but for the most part it is the same bike as yours. Good luck as you have your work cut out for you. Rick F. Thought this part number decoder might be useful.docx

http://www.bbc.com/news/38293294 Here is a nice story about Santa and a dying boys last wish. Rick F.

How soon do you need it out to him? I do have a little experience with this type of car if it has a 6-pack on it also. I would think a car this valuable I would want to use an enclosed trailer and an experience and insured hauler. I have heard some good things about Passport, https://www.passporttransport.com/ Or check out this site for recommendation for some different carriers. https://www.hagerty.com/articles-videos/articles/2012/11/29/transporting-your-classic Good luck and if you really need it driven out there. Just PM me but no guarantee on how much tread will be left on the rear tires when I get there.. Rick F.

Gary, it is my understanding that the 83-85 needles are different from the 86-93 in that the clip that holds the needle in postion is adjustable on the 83-85 due to different slots cut around the top of the needle. The 86-93 only have the one slot for the clip. I know I and a bunch of others removed the plastic spacer and replaced it with washers that when stacked were shorter then the plastic spacer. This was to lean out the motor a bit due to it running rich and getting a carbon buildup at the end of the mufflers. I am planning on one of my winter/spring projects is a complete rebuild of the carbs on my 89VR as I doubt it has ever been done. I have replaced the diaphragms and did the shotgun cleaning on the carbs but it is time for a total cleaning and rebuild. Hope this helps you. Rick F.

Gary, are you saying the jet needles themselves are different lengths to each other? Looking at the parts listing, it appears they are all the same part number no matter which carb then go into. I was wonder if you can see any writing up near the top of the jet needles that might indicate what needles they are. It is my understand that there is a part number on the jet needles them self. My service manual mentions 5DZ3-1 with the needle jet being a Y-0. This is for the 86-93 Venture. I did do a search on the Mikuni 5DZ3-1 jet needles and one of the docs had total length for a 5DZ3 jet needle as 50.50 MM in total length. Hope this helps, I do have a spare set of carbs here that I could pull a part and check the needles if that helps you... Rick F.

you might want to check out the rubber jet block plugs on the jet block. I would suggest you replace those with new ones as they can cause issue. These are item number 41 and 41 in the parts diagram. Hope that helps. Rick F.

What stator did you end up buying if you dont mind me asking. Thanks Rick F.

Go here and download the service manual for the 1300 VR. http://labs.trunkful.com/vrmanuals/index.cfm There are number section in the back for testing electrical components to verify if they are good or not. Looking at the prices for that ebay stator and regulator, seems a little cheap in price and maybe some China junk. Test your components first and see if they really need replacing but I would look into replacing your fuse block with a more modern spade fuse block as a lot of us have done here to our VRs. You might just need to clean the connectors as the bike is 28 years old. Good luck Rick F.